BTW, are you aware that you have to remove as much of those algae manually? Use the estimative method some of us here are using. Your parameter looks good with it, good CO2 and most of your nutrients are at low.
Pete, that is why some of us, I for one, are doing Mg and Ca, and using Coral. To minimise water change. If I can dose enough of those and get my ratio right and maintain a good tank with minimum water change, why not.----------------
On 7/25/2003 4:59:47 PM
If you really want the GH, just do more frequent water change and it will solve most problems...Singapore's tap is not pure RO water..don't worry
----------------
Remember the DOC thingy....you don't like to live in your toilet with all your family members do you? []
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
I agree but I am not saying I am not going to do water change. My objective is to do it like 2~3 weeks once.
Plants use dissolved organic carbon too or don't they?
Dissolve organic compound..not carbon.
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
Humic, phenol and other proteins? Not an issue IMO.
err... organic compounds all contain carbon... otherwise they are not organic compounds
BC
Thanks BC, I was about to say that.----------------
On 7/25/2003 5:33:18 PM
err... organic compounds all contain carbon... otherwise they are not organic compounds
BC
----------------
Robin, BC & PeterGwee,
Generally, pearling indicates plants are, in presence of CO2, NO3, PO4, SO4 and other essential nutrients (both in substrate & water column), given sufficient energy (light, usually more than 0.4 watts per litre) to consume the nutrients exceeding the threshold rate. At or exceeding this rate, plants will break-up the O2 binding nutrients, taking in the cation and expel the excess anion O2, in a fashion that is quick enough to saturate the water with O2 and thereby creating and sustaining the pearling. Nature lends this to supports life under the water.
And this behaviour must be there always, not sometime but all the time, that's the challenge. An easy way out is the no-fuss method that is faithfully preached by Tom Barr to keep the nutrients in check by dosing and resetting weekly. This is the first step towards getting things right.
The next step is to maintain the right parameters within their range. This is where works come in. High tech tank with equipment like PH metering and controlling (by varying CO2 injection timing), substrate heater, chillers & temperature controller, auto fertilisers doser, etc. are tasked to do just that. Again, Tom Barr goes the other way, his primitive but equally effective methodology. Like many here (Geoffrey is one of them), I have a different approach, I prefer to change water fortnightly and replace only 35%. So, there will be more work for me as I have to know more precisely on my plants¡¯ individual nutrients consumption rate. Addition of Ca and Mg therefore also come into picture.
These 2 steps are usually sufficient to keep the plant growing healthily and (thereby) keeping the algae at bay.
The next step is what do you want to have in your set-up, then act/adjust accordingly. Like Robin, he wishes to see red plant being presented red, increased light is one of the parameter to do. Or some wish to grow certain plant well, like Aponogeton Ulvaceus, so then channel water flow there, etc.
And so on.
Low light tank is a different animal. Owner of such tanks chose it, usually, for low maintenance, to keep certain low light plants, certain biotope and/or create calming effect and so on. Growth rate and vibrancy is often not the objective. Such tank¡¯s plants possess little or no pearling as the water is hardly saturated with O2 with the lack of driving force, namely the light.
Regards,
Freddy Chng
www.Killies.com
...and CO2....----------------
On 7/26/2003 12:20:55 AM
no pearling as the water is hardly saturated with O2 with the lack of driving force, namely the light.
Regards,
Freddy Chng
www.Killies.com
----------------
okay, going to mantain my tank and will not post until got good news.
Thanks a lot everyone.
Robin
i always fighting algae but still got more
Wow- this started out as a thread for red plants
Robin-do not fear asking any question as long as it's about plants. Often there are others lurking around and reading it and are for ever reason, not posting. They also benefit and feel better there are folks at their level or beyond.
Regards,
Tom Barr
wait, one final question.
can i keep at 2wpg and still achieve chemical balance and get rid of algae. really, that is all the light i can afford right now.
robin
i always fighting algae but still got more
hello, anyone wanna give me a last advice before i disappear to try to solve my many problems?
robin
i always fighting algae but still got more
Definitely. As mentioned before, the tank I've seen with 3 X 1.5 X 1.5ft runs at only 72W ( < 2W/gal! ), and have no problem with algae. Plants grow successfully and red.----------------
On 7/27/2003 10:55:48 PM
can i keep at 2wpg and still achieve chemical balance and get rid of algae. really, that is all the light i can afford right now.
robin
----------------
Though I've no experience with low lighting setup, I would be very eager to experiment with it if I've a chance like you. Balancing your tank requires some knowledge and trial, since most of us here are running at higher lighting.
However, IMO, I think it's worth your effort if it's successful. Your tank will have lower maintenance than many of us here!
Wah lau, if i succeed you can nick name me Mr low light
haha
i always fighting algae but still got more
Yes, and if so, please scrap off this quote:
"i always fighting algae but still got more"
[
2w a gal?
As others have told you, just fine.
That use to be high light and about all you could get over a tank in the "old days". A few of the nicest tanks I've seen have around this amount.
Look at it this way, more light means faster uptake, more chance of something going wrong if you slack off. If something does go wrong with 2w vs more light, the problem will not be as big/fast with the 2w a gal tank.
Too many assume that more light is better. A balanced light is easier to achieve around 1.5-2.5 w/gal IME/IMO.
Regards,
Tom Barr
Resistance is futile, you will be administrated!
Tom,
How do you calculate the WPG? Using the tank capacity or actual water volume? Seems to be some confusion in this aspect.
Vincent - AQ is for everyone, but not for 'u' and 'mi'.
Why use punctuation? See what a difference it makes:A woman, without her man, is nothing.
A woman: without her, man is nothing.
WOOOOHOOOO!!
WOOOOOOOHOOOOOO!!
I followed all your procedures except the lighting one and now there is lesser algae (YES!!!). Though it is not completely eradicatted.
My plants are growing fine and bubbling as usual.
However, my red plants are still green. sigh
Robin
Will keep you guys posted.
i always fighting algae but still got more
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