A bit more info will be helpful. Try filling up this questionaire to the best of your knowledge. I sure won't want to make the same mistake I made for BettaPassion.
A bit more info will be helpful. Try filling up this questionaire to the best of your knowledge. I sure won't want to make the same mistake I made for BettaPassion.
it was most probably caused by my strong lighting.. anyway i can get rid of it?
For existing ones, use a phonecard to scrape them off the glass.
Just wandering
A lot of people said use a phone card.
I am using it too.
But why phone cards???
What about other types of card like credit card, elink card....
doesn't matter lah ... I use an AMEX card for my tanks. []
ThEoDoRe
hahah! I using Visa! hahah! wonder if they accept Master or Diners!!!! aahhahah!
Baby Steel!
So credit cards, phone cards also can? mi also have a bit of green spot algae on the glass. so finding a good way of remove them
You would need to get to the root of the problem also imo or else it will come back again. CO2 and NO3 are what most folks screw up on...once you get those over with, the rest is pretty easy to hit over a range and will not contribute to algae even in excess.
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
so its to increase CO2 or decrease ??
Just make sure they are in the 20-30ppm range the entire light period and you pin point other stuff as the probable cause of algae (its almost always a lack of something that cause algae issues...not more except NO3 which can destablize a system if too much). Most folks add lots of lights so it should not be much of an issue but the problem starts when they did not increase the CO2 and nutrients as well. You need to balance it....
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
Beginners Info Sheet
--------------------
Tank Dimensions (LxWxH): regular 2 feet tank
Tank Volume (litres or gallons): around 10 gallons
Lighting Intensity(No of Watts) : 72w
Type of Lighting (FL/PL/MH) : PL
No. of Hours your light is on : 10-12
CO2 Injection Rate (bps) : 1 bps
Type of CO2 (DIY/Liquid/Tank) : tank
Method of Injection (e.g. Diffusor/Reactor): diffusor
Substrate Used : gravel
How Thick is your base fert : 1.5 inches
How thick is your gravel : 3 inches
Liquid Fertilizers Used : TMG
Frequency of fertilization : once a week
Tank Temperature : 24-30
Type of Filter (overhead/internal/canister) : overhead
Filter media used : sponge and cotton
How long has your tank been set up : 2weeks for planted tank.. was regular tank b4 that.
Other equipment :
Chemical Properties (Fill what you can)
---------------------------------------
Carbonate Hardness (KH): 3
Total Hardness (gH): -
pH : 6.5
NH4 (ppm): -
NO2 (ppm): -
NO3 (ppm): -
PO4 (ppm): -
Fe (ppm): -
Bioload (Your Fish and Plants)
------------------------------
plants: glossos, taiwan moss and a leaf plant tied to a log.
fishes: OTOs
others: malayan shrimps
Describe your problem :
lots of spotted algae on tank walls and leaves of all the plants.
some furry stuff on the big leaf plant. HELP!![]
Qwe123r, you are using an overhead filter for a planted tank? I find it hard to believe that with 1bps of CO2 and an overhead filter(lots of splashing..espcially the return line), you can get the pH down to 6.5...What kind of kit are you using to measure your pH reading? I highly suspect your pH reading. Getting that amount of light over your small tank with mostly slow growing plants, lack of CO2(suspect bad pH reading) and not heavily planted with fast growers is going to cause lots of problems. Look seriously at the CO2 and cut back on the light to 36W would do. Fix the CO2 and then look at your fert regime.
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
my diffuser and the filter outlet is located at seperate ends of the tank. tried several ph kits and they all give me ard 6.5 to 7 ph readings.. and i put strong lights because of my glossos.. they were grower upwards until i installed stronger lights and dun think i can cut back on that [:]
Your pH test kit are not good enough for this purpose. Spend your money on a pH test pen if you are serious on the hobby. Get your CO2 right is the hardest thing for you right now. Until you get that fixed, you will always have algae. For a KH of 3, you will need to dial the CO2 in to get a pH range of 6.4-6.6 for the entire light period consistently day in day out...no more than 6.6 though. (Your pH kit shows 6.5 which will give you good CO2 level but at a pH of 7..you have too little.)
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
hmmm... so changing my CO2 bps should do the trick?
Eh...but is your measurement of your pH precise enough for the purpose of finding the proper CO2 level? Think about it....You will need as much precision as possible and try to maintain a consistent supply which I don't think you are supplying due to a lousy needle valve?
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
splashing of the water will caused CO2 in your tank to escape. so ever if you put the diffuser and the return line of the filter at different ends, CO2 will still be lose due to the splashing of the water
splashing of the water will caused CO2 in your tank to escape. so ever if you put the diffuser and the return line of the filter at different ends, CO2 will still be lose due to the splashing of the water
Sorry abt the multi posting. Something screw up with my pc
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