Spotty Nanas

[thebaldingaquarist]

hi all,
I have a low tech tank 432 with java ferns, nanas on driftwood and hornworts.

In my tank are some endlers (6 fry and 3 females), albino corys (5), ottos (6) and 1 pleco.

The nanas and ferns are showing signs of sickness, with the nanas curling up and some have spots.

I have attached a picture of the nanas with spots.

Can some shifu tell me whats wrong with the tank?

Thanks!

[thebaldingaquarist]

No experts out there?

[zonkkie]

does it look like green spot algae?

[jeffteo]

Try rubbing the leaf if it comes off. If yes, it should be algae. I used to have a lot on my Nana till I introduced Horned Nerite snail and Oto to the tank. Not the Nana are spotless.

[creech]

Yes, the Horned Nerite snails saves my nana too from spotted algae. You may also want to put the snail directly onto the leaves as the snail will only leave after it clear up the algae on the leave

[thebaldingaquarist]

Thanks for the replies!
I have bought 4 zebra snails. Not much improvement to the situation. Perhaps it's really too much for them to handle. I am looking at alternatives.. Can I snip off all the nana leaves? Will it grow back?

[creech]

The Zebra snails are too large and heavy to stay on the Nana from my experience, I used horned nerite as they are smaller.

I think do not snipp off all, remove the larger one as it has bigger surface area for spot grow, you need the smaller leaves for photosynthesis as Nana is not a fast grower.

[thebaldingaquarist]

The Zebra snails are too large and heavy to stay on the Nana from my experience, I used horned nerite as they are smaller.

I think do not snipp off all, remove the larger one as it has bigger surface area for spot grow, you need the smaller leaves for photosynthesis as Nana is not a fast grower.

Thanks for the advice.

have tried all... to no avail.
now topping up phosphates and looking for improvement.

[Stormz]

Horned Nerite snail and Otto are a good choice, have placed 3 otto and 6 Nerite snails to clean up the spot algae in my tank, very good workers they are, doesn't stop till they finished their job.

[jeffteo]

Thanks for the advice.

have tried all... to no avail.
now topping up phosphates and looking for improvement.

Why topping up Phosphates? Too much will cause algae issue.
For photosynthesis, you should be dosing Potassium instead.
Phosphates dosing is not really necessary as it can also be found in the food you feeding. If you dosing NPK regularly, you got to to water change very often to remove the excess nutrient.

[thebaldingaquarist]

Why topping up Phosphates? Too much will cause algae issue.
For photosynthesis, you should be dosing Potassium instead.
Phosphates dosing is not really necessary as it can also be found in the food you feeding. If you dosing NPK regularly, you got to to water change very often to remove the excess nutrient.

Hi Jeff,

Thanks for the reply.
I have been topping potassium phosphates for the last 2 weeks or so. GSA is greatly reduced. no signs of it on my glass anymore.

Things i have done :
1. inclusion of 4 nerite snails. Snails were too big and did not seem very active. They did a good job laying eggs all over though..
2. inclusion of 4 SAE. These were helpful. but did not do much to well established GSA as expected.
3. top up phosphates and scrap the GSA off the glass. snip off the nana leaves that were affected.
4. reduced lighting period to 6H, 78W (approx 1.25WPG).
After that, no more GSA. nanas are growing faster, about a new leave every 12 days or so.

[jeffteo]

Glad that it is working out for you. Try dosing Seachem Excel also and you will see the condition improve even more. Get the plants established and growing and algea issue will slowly be gone. Then you can lower the frequency of the dosing slowly.
Where did you get the Potassium Phospates from, as in brand of the macro? Seachem one is Potassium Sulfate
I just noticed that I said Phosphates previously. Actually I meant Phosphorus the P in the macro NPK dosing. Sorry on the mixed up. But too much Phoshates and Phosphorus alone will still cause algae issue.

Nerite Snail got to get the horned Nerite snail, they are smaller and can go to the small or tight areas to clear algle. They are know to be good at clearing algae at an area before moving to the next but there are some who claim no success. For me I just dump them in and leave them alone to do their job. They need to get used to the tank also and maybe that is why they are not so fast with clearing the algae initially. Forgotten to warn you about the eggs. Best is just keep only 1 first to test out is M/F if cannot get by the sex. If can get by the sex then get all males. The eggs will never hatch in freshwater FYI. I am still figuring out if all females will lay eggs(fertilized or unfertilized) once sexually matured or they will need a male to mate with before they can lay eggs. I am suspecting is the first case. Once they have sufficient algae to feast on, i will notice the eggs everywhere.

SAE are good with hair algae as well as Yamato shrimps(preferred). SAE can get aggressive and lazy as they get older.
GSA and GDA will need to leave it to the Horned Nerite Snail and Oto.

[hellomyfriend]

so would it be good if there is a combination of yamato and otto inside a tank?

[thebaldingaquarist]

Glad that it is working out for you. Try dosing Seachem Excel also and you will see the condition improve even more. Get the plants established and growing and algea issue will slowly be gone. Then you can lower the frequency of the dosing slowly.
Where did you get the Potassium Phospates from, as in brand of the macro? Seachem one is Potassium Sulfate
I just noticed that I said Phosphates previously. Actually I meant Phosphorus the P in the macro NPK dosing. Sorry on the mixed up. But too much Phoshates and Phosphorus alone will still cause algae issue.

Nerite Snail got to get the horned Nerite snail, they are smaller and can go to the small or tight areas to clear algle. They are know to be good at clearing algae at an area before moving to the next but there are some who claim no success. For me I just dump them in and leave them alone to do their job. They need to get used to the tank also and maybe that is why they are not so fast with clearing the algae initially. Forgotten to warn you about the eggs. Best is just keep only 1 first to test out is M/F if cannot get by the sex. If can get by the sex then get all males. The eggs will never hatch in freshwater FYI. I am still figuring out if all females will lay eggs(fertilized or unfertilized) once sexually matured or they will need a male to mate with before they can lay eggs. I am suspecting is the first case. Once they have sufficient algae to feast on, i will notice the eggs everywhere.

SAE are good with hair algae as well as Yamato shrimps(preferred). SAE can get aggressive and lazy as they get older.
GSA and GDA will need to leave it to the Horned Nerite Snail and Oto.

I am using phosphates from lushgro mix stock solution. dosing daily.
Noted on the nerites. Eggs are everywhere. LOL.. need to scrub them off or cover them with more moss..

SAEs are indeed getting aggressive. but they seem to fight amongst themselves. My problem with them is that they are eating fish food now!! not working on the algae!

I think i will get some yamatos to prevent another outbreak. Also looking into Organic carbon choices like excel.

Cheers!

[jeffteo]

I am using phosphates from lushgro mix stock solution. dosing daily.
Noted on the nerites. Eggs are everywhere. LOL.. need to scrub them off or cover them with more moss..

SAEs are indeed getting aggressive. but they seem to fight amongst themselves. My problem with them is that they are eating fish food now!! not working on the algae!

I think i will get some yamatos to prevent another outbreak. Also looking into Organic carbon choices like excel.

Cheers!

You got to starve the SAE if you want them to eat the algae. As they get older, they will also slow down on the algae consumption.