did you do any water change, trimming prior to the deaths? do you have any nitrate tester? could be a nitrate prob, chlorine prob? recall the stuff you did before
3 week ago, I just resetup my 2ft planted tank.
here are the parameter
Tank - 3weeks old
PH - 6.4
KH - 3.5
Temp - 25degree
Light - 82W (2xPL32W + 1xFL18W) for 10hr/day
C02 - 4-5 bubbles/sec
Plants
Glosso
Tenellus
Hairgrass
Red Lily
Green Lily
Xmas Moss
Java Moss
Mini Long grass
Fishes
Carninels
Yamato Shrimps
Triger Shrimp
Ballon Ram
The problem is yesterday, almost 90% of my shrimps started to die. so
this morning a more death boby counts of shrimps []
What happen? anyone pls advise...
and I dun see any bubble from any plants at all, although no major sign of any plants dieing or rot. The lily seem to be to growing, I see baby leave coming out of the soil too. Glosso, seem to b grow as well (upward). Tenellus also seem redish in color.
so why my shrimp start dieing and there isn't any bubbles?
is my water condition ok?
did you do any water change, trimming prior to the deaths? do you have any nitrate tester? could be a nitrate prob, chlorine prob? recall the stuff you did before
I did water change last Thurday and Sunday. abt 1/3 of the tank,
sorry for asking, I need to measure N02 or N03? I saw such test kit in LFS, but dunno which one is correct and their use?
NO2 = Nitrite
NO3 = Nitrate
NO2 is quite toxic to fishes/shrimps while NO3 is safe for fish/shrimps in low concentrations.
There was a discussion whereby shrimps are more sensitive to NO3.
At pH=6.4 and kH=3.5, Co2 is at 41ppm. Maybe you hould reduce to maybe 30ppm.
4-5 bubbles/sec seems quite a lot for a 2ft tank.
ckchua
ic .. so I should measure my N02 level.. how to reduce the N02? changing water will help?
C02 reduce to 30ppm.. which mean reduce my bubbles count to 3bb/sec?
if your tank is resetup as you say, then the nitrogen cycle is probably starting anew, meaning that ammonia and nitrite is building up to toxic levels, which affect shrimps badly. In a mature tank with the plants stabilised and growing, bacteria will quickly convert ammonia into nitrite and then into nitrate which is in turn absorbed by the plants. This maturing process normally takes about 3-4 weeks at least.
Apart from more regular water changes, try using water from another, older, more established tank to reintroduce more nitrifying bacteria into the tank.
thank for the advise..
I will do more water chg every 3 day.. see if the condition get better.
Did you fertilize in the first place? Plants are better bio filters than anything else other than nitrifying bacteria. Get them to start growing and they would remove loads of ammonia and nitrate from the water column. As the saying goes, healthy plants = healthy critters. Plants need light(you have), CO2(seems you have plenty), fertilizers? (NH4/NH3:NO3, K, traces and PO4).
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
so how do I remove or reduce the ammonia level? water chg? or do I need to add in chemical?----------------
On 10/20/2003 3:25:48 PM
Plants are better bio filters than anything else other than nitrifying bacteria. Get them to start growing and they would remove loads of ammonia and nitrate from the water column.
----------------
btw, I use JBL ferterliser (liquid type)
please read the above postings again and pay some attention .....
since you already have your fishload (minus shrimps), changing water (partial not full changes) often (every 3-4 days) will help dilute the ammonia and nitrite content of the water. After a while (couple of weeks) the bacterial load of the tank will build up sufficiently to convert most of the ammonia and nitrite into nitrate which is used by the plants - that is why some folks use Ammonia and Nitrite tests in the beginning, as steadily decreasing NH4/NO2 levels indicate that the tank's nitrogen cycle is becoming established.
Please forget about using "chemical" additives.... these cause my innate aggression drive to go out of control....
if as you say, the tank is resetup, i would go without the liquid fert (or use 1/3 dosage) until your tank is stabilised.
You could do worse than getting and reading a book such as Aquarium Fish by Ulrich Schliewen (Barron's series), which is available at good bookshops and LFS for less than $20. The sister volume on Aquarium Plants by Ines Scheurmann is worth a buy as well.
thank guys for all your value advise... now I understand..
it my mistake to insert the shrimp at this early stage, which causing them to die
Bookmarks