Reply With Quote
may i know your tank specs and also how thin is your soil layer? from the front looks very thin O_O
Overflow skimmer that goes to the sump/wet/dry filter below.
may i know your tank specs and also how thin is your soil layer? from the front looks very thin O_O
Very unique & lovely growth.
U R B A N AQUASCAPING
Tank is 48x18x30 inches. ATi light with 8 x 54W but run only at 10-20% most of the day and then 100% for 3-4 hours midday. Has light dimmer controller.
Filter; wet/dry, roughly 800-1000gph.
Co2
Water change is 60% 2x a week right now, mostly to keep the dirt down from replanting and moving/trying new combination with the plants and aggressive pruning.
Dose after water change and then daily on traces.
Soil is under 1 cm in the front and gets about 10-12 cm in the rear. The tank is shallow, so a deep sediment would remove the effect of the tank's shape.
May I know what's he breakdown of plant species you are keeping in this tank?
The problem is the plant species listign is evolvign and changing fairly frequently right now, not sure how long that will last, not too long I prefer/hope.
In the Rear, I have Nesaea crassilius, M matogrossense, Red low grow hygro, P stellata, M tubulucum, P stellaris, R macrandra, Hydrothrix garderi, Ech vesuvius, Ddinadra, R wallichii, H hottoniifolia.
The front is fair straight forward, the red ludwigia "red" is about the only oddball there.
This is a really good scape! I love the contrast of colours, and especially how the driftwood creeps through the tank. Brilliant!
The right side is going to get a rework this weeke/end etc.
I'll move the Red pantanal one row over next to the large Erio type 3 which recovered nicely away from hungry Fire shrimp, we will see if it stays in good shape or not.
Then the Tonina will move to the Pantanal's spot.
Not sure what to do with the Tonina Lotus blossom, I like the plant, but cannot keep it close to the normal Tonina(which is a better fit for this tank in general).
T. lotus blossom is a neat type however, so I'm very relucant to part with it.
I have some error in a plant order, I was shipped A gracilius but got Nesaea crassilius, which is frankly rarer and a very nice red plant, so I may move the L peruiesis out and over the far L and add the Nesaea in that spot to allow it to fill in nice and fully. Then eventually get the Ammannia for the rear(I can fill in back there with most anything really).
This will add another Red row and keep with the motif of every other one red and different leaf shape and texture.
The new bulbs have turned the D diandra very red. I have some H hottoniifolia in the rear corner, but I might just remove it and allow the weird bright green plant I keep forgetting the name of (genus starts with a "P"). the grouping got too small I feel and "collectortisy".
The wood is new and I've yet to reposition this side, but I shall in the week or so. The wood will soon blend in well with the other wood and I need to replant the UG on that side, it's about 4" deep right now.
The corner has the Red lower growing hygro which is a nice low maintenance plant. It'll take a month or two to fill in in the darker corner.
I'll need to thin some thing over on the Far Left side also, but most of the species will still stay as is.
2 biggest issues are if/where to keep: Downoi and the Lotus Blossom.
2 very nice plant species I'd rather keep.
If they can find a suitable home, I'm 80-90% of the way there, then the rest is just pruning and less moving stuff around and trying out various species.
BTW, light is only on for 7 hours, and it takes about 1 hour for the 2x54 W to come on and hit 100%, then the other 6 bulbs come on and it takes them another 1 hour to hit 100%, then at the end, both sets slowly drop off over 1 hour from 100% down to 0%.
So the lights are only on full blast for 5 hours, the CO2 comes on when the 1st pair is warming up, so it's cranked well when the full set starts to fire up.
The CO2 goes off about 45 min before the last bit of light hits the plants.
Re: "Dutch something or the other" 120 Gal
I understand.Originally Posted by Plantbrain
Hi Tom, I have some further questions (in brown), hope you can enlighten me:
Nesaea crassilius - is this the same as Nesaea sp. "Red" ?
M matogrossense - is this Myriophyllum mattogrossense ?
Red low grow hygro - is this Hygrophila sp. "Araguaia" ?
P stellata - is this Pogostemon stellatus "Broad" ?
M tubulucum - is this Myriophyllum tuberculatum ?
P stellaris - I'm having difficulty pin-pointing this one; may I have its full name?
R macrandra - should be Rotala macrandra, but which variant? Variegated or Green ?
Hydrothrix garderi - does this have a common name ?
Ech vesuvius - is this Echinodorus vesuvius ?
Ddinadra - is this Didiplis diandra ?
R wallichii - should be Rotala wallichii
H hottoniifolia - is this Hydrotriche hottoniiflora ?
red ludwigia "red" - is this Ludwigia repens "Rubin" ?
Lastly, may I know the moss type that you are growing (like a hedge) on the left-side of the tank?
Thank you.
latest scape looks good..
Keeping fish is like lure fishing, the moment u slack off its all gone!
Removed the Gloss and pruned the UG, looks much better now.
No, it's different.
Seems fairly correct, but it's not P stellata broad, this is the normal narrow leaf, I do not like the broad left personally.M matogrossense - is this Myriophyllum mattogrossense ?
Red low grow hygro - is this Hygrophila sp. "Araguaia" ?
P stellata - is this Pogostemon stellatus "Broad" ?
M tubulucum - is this Myriophyllum tuberculatum ?
P stellaris - I'm having difficulty pin-pointing this one; may I have its full name?
R macrandra - should be Rotala macrandra, but which variant? Variegated or Green ?
Hydrothrix garderi - does this have a common name ?
Ech vesuvius - is this Echinodorus vesuvius ?
Ddinadra - is this Didiplis diandra ?
R wallichii - should be Rotala wallichii
H hottoniifolia - is this Hydrotriche hottoniiflora ?
red ludwigia "red" - is this Ludwigia repens "Rubin" ?
Lastly, may I know the moss type that you are growing (like a hedge) on the left-side of the tank?
Thank you.
Hydrothrix does not have a common name.
R macrandra is the standard red type.
Rubin Ludwigia is likely the same plant.
Penthorum sedoides is the other plant, not P stellaris........
Fissidens is the moss.
A few good trims and grow out and the front rows will be up to snuff at least. I need to grow out the Ammannia more in the rear, but the R macrandra is coming along well, the older lower leaves are pretty pale, but a few trims later, they will be all red and make a nice mid wall in the back there.
One trick is to allow the plants to grow up and hit the surface for about a week or so, then replant. I have not yet done this with this tank, but plan to later.
The Downoi is making a come back, all I had were trimmed off bottom stumps, so it's come a long long way and will fill in decently.
Some of the other plants will grow in nicely and I've found using a turkey baster works well to clean the Erio cinreums' middle parts and keep those cleaner.
I am pondering adding the Red serpae tetras to this tank and moving the Rainbows. The tetras will eat the smaller shrimp for sure though, which I thought the rainbows would, but..they have not yet.
So far superb.
U R B A N AQUASCAPING
Did a real nice big hack today, I love this because it means I do not need to do much for awhile and the other plants get plenty of light, CO2 and the tank's flow patterns are nice.
I'll get a pic up perhaps Sat evening.
The C parva is likely going to be removed finally.
I'll allow the Downoi to trace over that direction like the Rios do.
I plan on keeping the L peruensis lower and use a combo of topping and uprooting/shortening other stems. I also do this now with the Ludwigia "red" as well.
I'd tried the Hydrothrix in a pretty low light region that was blocked by the main wood and it stared to rot a little, so I pulled that and like will return the Myrio matogrossense and allow the Bolbitus to fill out around the bottom base. The elephant nose double trunk loves that spot to hide during the day.
So now it's a wait and watch the weeds grow for awhile game.
As they fill in, I'll fatten up some groups and just maintain others......
Each trim is one step closer and better to the goal. Even the goal is rather open ended and experimental, which is nice for a change.
Another nice thing about a journal like approach is reviewing the plant groups before and after, as they evolve.
This gives me a MUCH better reference as to growth rates and timing for the different plant species, day to day, we often do not notice the growth rates and often become impatient.
Very clean, red & green are quite balanced but
IMHO the "red power" is too strong on the left
hand side and therefore creates disharmony.
U R B A N AQUASCAPING
noticed that you also removed your glosso?
and what's that stick-like mechanism you have sticking in your tank?
Love those red color
If I may what is your secret? Does 5 hours 8x54W full burst make the different? or some kind of secret fertilizer dosing
Is there any particular reason for the 2x54W take 1 hour to full burst? or just for fun?
The right side is going to get a rework this weeke/end etc.
I'll move the Red pantanal one row over next to the large Erio type 3 which recovered nicely away from hungry Fire shrimp, we will see if it stays in good shape or not.
Then the Tonina will move to the Pantanal's spot.
Not sure what to do with the Tonina Lotus blossom, I like the plant, but cannot keep it close to the normal Tonina(which is a better fit for this tank in general).
T. lotus blossom is a neat type however, so I'm very relucant to part with it.
I have some error in a plant order, I was shipped A gracilius but got Nesaea crassilius, which is frankly rarer and a very nice red plant, so I may move the L peruiesis out and over the far L and add the Nesaea in that spot to allow it to fill in nice and fully. Then eventually get the Ammannia for the rear(I can fill in back there with most anything really).
This will add another Red row and keep with the motif of every other one red and different leaf shape and texture.
The new bulbs have turned the D diandra very red. I have some H hottoniifolia in the rear corner, but I might just remove it and allow the weird bright green plant I keep forgetting the name of (genus starts with a "P"). the grouping got too small I feel and "collectortisy".
The wood is new and I've yet to reposition this side, but I shall in the week or so. The wood will soon blend in well with the other wood and I need to replant the UG on that side, it's about 4" deep right now.
The corner has the Red lower growing hygro which is a nice low maintenance plant. It'll take a month or two to fill in in the darker corner.
I'll need to thin some thing over on the Far Left side also, but most of the species will still stay as is.
2 biggest issues are if/where to keep: Downoi and the Lotus Blossom.
2 very nice plant species I'd rather keep.
If they can find a suitable home, I'm 80-90% of the way there, then the rest is just pruning and less moving stuff around and trying out various species.
BTW, light is only on for 7 hours, and it takes about 1 hour for the 2x54 W to come on and hit 100%, then the other 6 bulbs come on and it takes them another 1 hour to hit 100%, then at the end, both sets slowly drop off over 1 hour from 100% down to 0%.
So the lights are only on full blast for 5 hours, the CO2 comes on when the 1st pair is warming up, so it's cranked well when the full set starts to fire up.
The CO2 goes off about 45 min before the last bit of light hits the plants.
Love the new setup!!!! May i know what's the green plant at the front (last pic)??
Posting Permissions
Bookmarks