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Thread: The Hastatus Century Club

  1. #61
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    Re: The Hastatus Century Club

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    Haha. Seems like I have not been listening attentively in class..

    Hrm, it's always sad when I see a fish doing badly or dead. Most of the time, I don't ever find the root of the problem. Well, at least for this time, I don't think it'll be malnutrition or poor husbandry. WC has been done as usual, and I have been conditioning them for breeding with tubifex and microworms (the fish didnt look skinny or anything). Perhaps it was something internal, since I didnt see anything wrong on its exterior. Might have been from the tubifex although I was sure I wash them at least 5 times a day, and always before throwing them into my tank. Ugh.. Too bad they are probably the best live food for conditioning cories. I really need to find a good way to culture the tubifex so they are cleaner..
    Setup: ADA Cube Garden 45-P, Starlitz Clear 45, Eheim Aquacompact 40
    Layout/Hardscape: ADA Amazonia Powder Soil, Borneowild Rutsuuddo Wood (SS Root Type)
    Fauna: Apisto Trifasciata, Sundadanio Axelrodi (Blue), Yamato Shrimp

  2. #62
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    Re: The Hastatus Century Club

    They don't take very well to being cultured and it's a massive hassle to create a circulating system for them without taking too much space. It's far easier for you to culture grindal worms as a substitute for tubifex worms.
    Fish.. Simply Irresistable
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  3. #63
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    Yea.. Hence why I've been reading the thread about Grindalworms on the Killie sub-forum. It does seem like its easy, but, are grindals and tubifex going to provide the same nutrition? Are grindals just as effective for conditioning cories?

    Sent from my BlackBerry 9700 using Tapatalk
    Setup: ADA Cube Garden 45-P, Starlitz Clear 45, Eheim Aquacompact 40
    Layout/Hardscape: ADA Amazonia Powder Soil, Borneowild Rutsuuddo Wood (SS Root Type)
    Fauna: Apisto Trifasciata, Sundadanio Axelrodi (Blue), Yamato Shrimp

  4. #64
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    Re: The Hastatus Century Club

    Vannel, grindals and tubifex have different nutritions, so if you read my post in the killies sub-forum, well, I did mention feeding tubifex worms to the cories as well because they are high in protein.

    As for grindals, they are generally fatty, therefore, it's not a good idea to feed the fishes lavishly. On the other hand, with these worms, you can change the food pellets for them, as it helps to vary the nutritional content for fishes and it's easy to tell they are gut-loaded, simply by the color of the food they are fed with.

    Grindals are ok for small cories like C.hastatus but as for conditioning food, tubifex worms is generally preferable. I have varying result when using these two worms and I find an increased egg deposition when I feed tubifex worms to the C.hastatus and C.pygmaeus I kept in my community tank.
    Currently keeping large predatory fish 🐟

  5. #65
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    Re: The Hastatus Century Club

    May I know what type of food to feed juvenile hastatus? i.e. these specimens are of size 1cm & even smaller (but aren't fry). & is there any way to to ensure they can get at the food, i.e. stop any water-flow at feeding time + half an hour?

  6. #66
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    Re: The Hastatus Century Club

    Quote Originally Posted by ralliart12 View Post
    May I know what type of food to feed juvenile hastatus? i.e. these specimens are of size 1cm & even smaller (but aren't fry). & is there any way to to ensure they can get at the food, i.e. stop any water-flow at feeding time + half an hour?
    I would like to know as well, how others have been feeding their juve/fry. My current colony tank of C. Hastatus are fed tubifex (which the fry most definitely wont be able to fit in their mouths), Hikari Carnivore Pellets (hopefully when it breaks up and softens, the juve and fry would be able to pick up the small pieces), and lastly, a dose of microworms every few days (this is almost exclusively done for the juve and fry in case they don't get their share in the tank).

    Actually, I think they should survive well if your tank has ample java moss and detritus (from any leaves that have since "disintegrated" in your tank). I see some of my small C. Hastatus darting around the tank occassionally and they have since grown in size.. So, I suppose what I am doing works.

    By the way, I don't remove the eggs from my C. Hastatus tank. I also don't stop the filter when I feed them.
    Setup: ADA Cube Garden 45-P, Starlitz Clear 45, Eheim Aquacompact 40
    Layout/Hardscape: ADA Amazonia Powder Soil, Borneowild Rutsuuddo Wood (SS Root Type)
    Fauna: Apisto Trifasciata, Sundadanio Axelrodi (Blue), Yamato Shrimp

  7. #67
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    Re: The Hastatus Century Club

    Microworms is a good first food since they sink directly to the bottom, where the fry normally stay. At 1cm or smaller they should be able to ingest powdered flake food or young grindal worms. Have you tried Sera Micron, or Hikari First Bites? Just stir the food in a cup of water to make it sink before pouring it into the tank, or using a dropper or turkey baster to place the food close to where the fry are.

    If you stop water flow in your filter during feeding time for any period longer than 3-5 mins, the resulting water that rushes out can contribute to a sudden ammonia spike as the filter bacteria are sensitive to lack of oxygenation, which happens when the filter is stopped for a long period of time.
    Fish.. Simply Irresistable
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  8. #68
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    Re: The Hastatus Century Club

    Quote Originally Posted by stormhawk View Post
    Microworms is a good first food since they sink directly to the bottom, where the fry normally stay...
    Don't think my colleagues will take very well to me culturing microworms in the office.

    But thanks for the information though.

    Quote Originally Posted by stormhawk View Post
    ...Have you tried Sera Micron, or Hikari First Bites?...
    Nope, I didn't come across this "Sera Micron" product recently; is it a commonly-available fish food? Then again, I have a huge bottle of TetraBits. If I manage to grind it into powder & if the ingredients inside Sera Micron is a repeat of TetreBits, then it may be a waste of cash. On the other hand, I was thinking of grinding both Hikari Carnivore Pellets (as used by another fellow in this thread) & TetraBits into a single fine powder, soak the powder in dechlorinated water for a while to turn it into a solution, then use a syringe to inject into the top-layer of the sand (where the Hastatus may rummage around).

    Update: I found this on the web:



    Hikari First Bites. If this is really a semi-floating/slow-sinking as promoted, then it may solve my potential hassle.

    Quote Originally Posted by stormhawk View Post
    ...If you stop water flow in your filter during feeding time for any period longer than 3-5 mins, the resulting water that rushes out can contribute to a sudden ammonia spike as the filter bacteria are sensitive to lack of oxygenation, which happens when the filter is stopped for a long period of time.
    Woah, I did not know that. Thanks for the warning.

  9. #69
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    Yep! Hikari First Bites is a good option for powdered food. It is as described and floats for awhile before slow-sinking to the bottom. Care should be taken to feed only a little of the powder.. I tend to over-feed when using First Bites as I don't really see the fry feeding.

    On another note, do your Hastatus fry stay on the bottom? My Hastatus fry tend to like "hanging" on the back glass (which has black oyama pasted). Only as they grow slightly larger will they start venturing around on the substrate.

    By the way, I noticed 1-2 fry were dead in my tank over a 2-3 week period. Is it abnormal for casualties? Or do they tend to survive with near 100% success? What is a good percentage of fry survival?


    Sent from my BlackBerry 9700 using Tapatalk
    Setup: ADA Cube Garden 45-P, Starlitz Clear 45, Eheim Aquacompact 40
    Layout/Hardscape: ADA Amazonia Powder Soil, Borneowild Rutsuuddo Wood (SS Root Type)
    Fauna: Apisto Trifasciata, Sundadanio Axelrodi (Blue), Yamato Shrimp

  10. #70
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    Re: The Hastatus Century Club

    Quote Originally Posted by vannel View Post
    Yep! Hikari First Bites is a good option for powdered food. It is as described and floats for awhile before slow-sinking to the bottom. Care should be taken to feed only a little of the powder...
    Oh, so it is really powder? Fantastic! Probably will drop by C328 this week to see if I can get a pack.

    Quote Originally Posted by vannel View Post
    ...On another note, do your Hastatus fry stay on the bottom?...
    Mine aren't exactly "fry". They are smaller than the "usual" units that I recall selling at GC; but is definitely not fry, i.e. the "pendant" near the caudal fin is out already & the body is a single colour (un-mottled). Mine are just small, i.e. biggest is around 1cm.

    Quote Originally Posted by vannel View Post
    ...My Hastatus fry tend to like "hanging" on the back glass (which has black oyama pasted). Only as they grow slightly larger will they start venturing around on the substrate...
    That sounds pretty normal to me. Is there anything "extra" around your back-glass, e.g. outlet of HOB filter, dimmer lighting, etc?

  11. #71
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    Yep! You guessed right. That's the glass face where I have my filter outflow. I suppose that's okay then.


    Sent from my BlackBerry 9700 using Tapatalk
    Setup: ADA Cube Garden 45-P, Starlitz Clear 45, Eheim Aquacompact 40
    Layout/Hardscape: ADA Amazonia Powder Soil, Borneowild Rutsuuddo Wood (SS Root Type)
    Fauna: Apisto Trifasciata, Sundadanio Axelrodi (Blue), Yamato Shrimp

  12. #72
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    Re: The Hastatus Century Club

    I wouldn't say powder, more like very fine crushed bits. Sera Micron is also commonly available and sold as a first food for fry. I raised guppies on Sera Micron with crushed flakes. Should work with Cory fry too. It seems to be a little dirty green in color so I guess it contains some spirulina algae and mixed bits. I wouldn't say they are similar to Tetrabits but you can always pound the Tetrabits and feed the "dust" to the fry. They should ingest it.
    Fish.. Simply Irresistable
    Back to Killies... slowly.

  13. #73
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    Hrm. The First Bites are as close as I can find to powder (I consider it powder since I can't grind it up anymore than its original state, but I guess I can't call it "dust" yet). Never seen Sera Micron first hand so I can't comment on that.

    Sent from my BlackBerry 9700 using Tapatalk
    Setup: ADA Cube Garden 45-P, Starlitz Clear 45, Eheim Aquacompact 40
    Layout/Hardscape: ADA Amazonia Powder Soil, Borneowild Rutsuuddo Wood (SS Root Type)
    Fauna: Apisto Trifasciata, Sundadanio Axelrodi (Blue), Yamato Shrimp

  14. #74
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    Re: The Hastatus Century Club

    There's also this dried plankton food I saw at C328, can be a good mix to the diet also. FD Cyclop-Eeze should be good too but I cannot find this food locally.
    Fish.. Simply Irresistable
    Back to Killies... slowly.

  15. #75
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    Re: The Hastatus Century Club

    Did not really get an answer from my previous posting. Sorry for the questions bros.. I'm a real newbie.

    I was wondering if anyone could enlighten me on the success rate of raising C. Hastatus fry to about 2-3 months old when they are more stable. Since my very first spawn which is about 2 weeks ago during CNY.. I've had multiple spawns from my 6 adults and most of the eggs have successfully hatched into fry. I don't have a definitive count of the total fry count, but I should think I have at least 30 fry in the tank right now. The problem here is that I am seeing some deaths in my fry population. At present, I have picked up and removed 4 fry from the tank which I saw floating around the water column, dead (not sure if there are more casualties.. I just pick out the free-floating ones that I see). Is this statistic somewhat expected? Or should survival rates be close to 100%? If so, please enlighten me on what I should be doing to improve on the fry's survivability.

    Thanks!
    Setup: ADA Cube Garden 45-P, Starlitz Clear 45, Eheim Aquacompact 40
    Layout/Hardscape: ADA Amazonia Powder Soil, Borneowild Rutsuuddo Wood (SS Root Type)
    Fauna: Apisto Trifasciata, Sundadanio Axelrodi (Blue), Yamato Shrimp

  16. #76
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    Re: The Hastatus Century Club

    The process of preparing a conducive environment, triggering mating activities, raising at least 80% of hatched fry to adulthood is called "breeding". Finding an occasional fry without attempting is not breeding, that is just accidental spawning.

    Fry survivability can never be 100% due to a variety of reasons. We can only provide for things that minimize deaths (appropriate foods etc) and things that maintain water quality (waste management etc).

    If breeding hastatus was that easy, they'd probably be worth $1 each at LFS.

    Quote Originally Posted by vannel View Post
    ...please enlighten me on what I should be doing to improve on the fry's survivability
    The answers are often under our noses. Think small.
    I'm back & keeping 'em fingers wet,
    Ronnie Lee

  17. #77
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    Thumbs up Re: The Hastatus Century Club

    Ron is quite forthright about the issue being raised

  18. #78
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    Re: The Hastatus Century Club

    Just tried the Hikari First Bites today & what can I say? Hikari did it again (from my experience, at least). My small Hastatus has taken wonderfully to it (the powder).

  19. #79
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    Re: The Hastatus Century Club

    That's good news. Some fry are picky about what they get as food. Do they rush when they notice the powder?
    Fish.. Simply Irresistable
    Back to Killies... slowly.

  20. #80
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    Re: The Hastatus Century Club

    Quote Originally Posted by stormhawk View Post
    That's good news. Some fry are picky about what they get as food. Do they rush when they notice the powder?
    Actually, mine are just small; but ain't fries. Nonetheless, at first they were like "hey, there's something in the water...", then they were like "oh my god oh my god!"...

    I'll probably mix it (their diet) up a little when they grow older.

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