leaking eheim pro II 2026

[granzord]

You don't need the white teflon tape honestly. If the O-Ring is sitting in the position correctly and greased, there should not be any leaks at the seam. Did you replace the O-Ring correctly?

Don't fit the canister head back wrongly. There is a hole that leads to the input part of the head, which leads to the bottom of the canister. If you fit it the wrong way the water will pass through the fine pad first, which is wrong. Check the 2 small O-Rings at the input and output heads and also n the attachment that fits there. The red piece that goes over the little flow rate indicator ball should be fine.

See this side diagram to get a better idea:



Key parts to take note of are as follows:

#74444190 (2 o-rings for the input/output attachment) - sealing rings for double tap
#7343150 (main o-ring for the canister head) - sealing gasket
#7343390 (2 rubber joints for the white filter trays) - rubber seals

thks bro , your picture is very detail.
actually a few wuestions if don't mind.
1) wher u get the grease ? any grease will do?
2) goin to change the 2-o ring for input and output, as i see many post similar to my problem and after changin red o-ring ...no complaints.
3) rubber seal at where?
4) i saw rubber o-ring at tray in some post, r they refer to the rubber in 4 corners of the tray in the bottom . actually one of the rubber (small rubber to connect into hole at bottom) is missing... the leak all start for these 4 corners.

[granzord]

You are trying to say the canister top assembly is leaking from within.
Help you phase it, my cf-1200 had leaks from there.
Should have 2-3 o-rings inside.
2 at where the inlet/outlet are attached to the assembly.
If have self priming, that section might have.
If you recall, I briefly mentioned about this when you came up.

Edit: went to see the layout of the canister. It does self prim, but does not seem to require an o-ring as looks like the quick release solved that problem. If mobile part it is sure to have o-ring thingy, else push in push out water come out.

Btw: where you live?

hi bro ,

i be thinking and reading for these problem for a while..
think u maybe right... o-ring at input/output.

i put new o-ring in canister head. while put back , i can sense that head is tightly secure while puting back clip.diff feeling from last old o-ring .
then i read up , saw 1 guy totally same problem as me haha. he change red-o-ring , then no problem. so i hope too. today goin c328 c how .... if not qian hu , sibei far.....

[stormhawk]

1) wher u get the grease ? any grease will do?
2) goin to change the 2-o ring for input and output, as i see many post similar to my problem and after changin red o-ring ...no complaints.
3) rubber seal at where?
4) i saw rubber o-ring at tray in some post, r they refer to the rubber in 4 corners of the tray in the bottom . actually one of the rubber (small rubber to connect into hole at bottom) is missing... the leak all start for these 4 corners.

1) You can get the grease from any shop that stocks EHEIM parts or petroleum jelly will do.
2) There's no O-Ring for the red piece that goes on the flow meter, but replacing the 2 for the input/output attachment is a good idea.
3) The rubber seals go on cylindrical piece on each filter tray at the top. They basically make the pieces fit correctly so no leakage within the canister. I never changed mine for the past 7 years or so. Not so necessary but if you're going to change everything might as well change that too.
4) The only rubber pieces that go on 4 corners are the 4 tiny rubber feet at the bottom. You might want to check those too just in case.

This page will show a full diagram and you can identify the parts I mentioned from the part numbers:
http://www.eheimspares.co.uk/eheim_1...nal_filter.php

[granzord]

1) You can get the grease from any shop that stocks EHEIM parts or petroleum jelly will do.
2) There's no O-Ring for the red piece that goes on the flow meter, but replacing the 2 for the input/output attachment is a good idea.
3) The rubber seals go on cylindrical piece on each filter tray at the top. They basically make the pieces fit correctly so no leakage within the canister. I never changed mine for the past 7 years or so. Not so necessary but if you're going to change everything might as well change that too.
4) The only rubber pieces that go on 4 corners are the 4 tiny rubber feet at the bottom. You might want to check those too just in case.

This page will show a full diagram and you can identify the parts I mentioned from the part numbers:
http://www.eheimspares.co.uk/eheim_1...nal_filter.php

GReat bro. your info is super. now i know most of the parts ...usually not sure what is where. haha

today went down to c328.
uncle say pump o-ring maybe faulty, advise to change along with the input and output o-ring.
damage - $25 for pump o-ring(no number, pump head for water to go in, he suspect there one stuck) and $25 for 2 small o-ring 7444190...they also got sell the input/ output head (744457 is it come along with o-ring one ? cost $39. suspect is doesn't , anybody knew.

1) grease = vaseline ( 734598 ? how much it cost?

hope after changing , will solve my problem. friday is a long wait.. lucky i got power head to pump chiller or jialat....

[felix_fx2]

Bro, it might have few variation like 2213's impeller.
Never ask uncle?
Good luck ok.

[stormhawk]

You only need the 3 crucial O-rings I mentioned. The main gasket and the 2 small ones for the input/output head. You don't need a brand new input/output attachment head. For the input and output head O-rings, you can find the same size at some hardware stores but buying Eheim made parts might be better. Rubber quality is important, so original parts are always better. The input/output head should come with the rubber seals but you can see for yourself. I doubt they come together with the seals though since they're listed separately on the diagram.

What the uncle said about the internal piece being stuck can refer to the impeller assembly. There are 2 tiny rubber pieces at either end of the impeller and sometimes these tiny ones are not placed right. These are part no. 7444390 which includes the stick on which the impeller rotates.

I got no idea how much the eheim grease costs but it should not be too expensive.

[felix_fx2]

The last thing you want to have is this part to fail you.


Taken from guide.
http://www.njagc.net/articles/eheim_oring.htm
NOTE: DO NOT TRY THIS AS IT WILL VOID EHIEM WARRANTY

[BFG]

Granzord, you do know that sms language is highly frowned upon right?

[granzord]

The last thing you want to have is this part to fail you.


Taken from guide.
http://www.njagc.net/articles/eheim_oring.htm
NOTE: DO NOT TRY THIS AS IT WILL VOID EHIEM WARRANTY

THis cost me 1day and $25dol.... $4.80 for the small O-ring.....$25 for the head O-ring.....hope it end here or i really don't know what going on....can really go buy 4-d liao.
vasline petrol jerry can put on main O-ring , how about small O-ring then ? put little or lot. please advise. thanks.

[granzord]

Granzord, you do know that sms language is highly frowned upon right?

sorry for the mistake...sometimes too fustrated to think properly.

[granzord]

You only need the 3 crucial O-rings I mentioned. The main gasket and the 2 small ones for the input/output head. You don't need a brand new input/output attachment head. For the input and output head O-rings, you can find the same size at some hardware stores but buying Eheim made parts might be better. Rubber quality is important, so original parts are always better. The input/output head should come with the rubber seals but you can see for yourself. I doubt they come together with the seals though since they're listed separately on the diagram.

What the uncle said about the internal piece being stuck can refer to the impeller assembly. There are 2 tiny rubber pieces at either end of the impeller and sometimes these tiny ones are not placed right. These are part no. 7444390 which includes the stick on which the impeller rotates.

I got no idea how much the eheim grease costs but it should not be too expensive.

ya $4.80 for the small O-ring.. i change liao. tonight will be deciding factor for me. just reach home...very tired...but i will carry on for my tank.

[granzord]

swee currently no pro. hope can cross the night.i open the small o-ring , harden one. so i think that is the problem. hope so.

[felix_fx2]

ya $4.80 for the small O-ring.. i change liao. tonight will be deciding factor for me. just reach home...very tired...but i will carry on for my tank.

Gotcha!

Need to keep practice the art of formal writing. Before someone asks
"hey mate, what does that mean"
Benefit people searching for solution to their woes.
Best of luck.

[Navanod]

By the way, the eheim grease costs around $4+ at C328 for a small pack. It's enough for at least 2 canisters

[felix_fx2]

By the way, the eheim grease costs around $4+ at C328 for a small pack. It's enough for at least 2 canisters

Navanod, I think all is good. He went Watsons yesterday to buy vasline.
He morning whatsapp feedback to me that so far no leaks.

But input is good, others can see and know when search fourm where sells ehiem grease

[granzord]

hi everyone, believe me or not. the flow is good. no more leaking... next time should know where to change the culprits.....

thanks everyone for the help. it being a busy and tiring time with the leak.

[felix_fx2]

Bro grats
Good to hear things are smooth going.
Hope to hear some fissiden and crs from you soon.

[granzord]

crs not doing that greatz at the moment...my 2 fire red are now populating my tank with mani baby shrimps...how i hope they are crs offsprings....

[BFG]

A tip for canister filter owner is for them to place their canister filter in another container. I found that Ikea Samla storage container has the right fit for Eheim Pro 2 series. All my Eheim canister filter are placed in such container in order to catch any leakage for whatever reason.

[EheimSucks]

I bought the Pro 3 2075 brand new in Sept 2012 that came with a 3 year warranty. The filter leaked after 2 years destroying my $350 wooden stand. Water leaked out near the power cord. After searching the net I found out that this was a common issue among Pro 3 filters made before Aug 2010. There have also been countless reports of Eheim's Customer Support department ignoring customer emails when contacted for warranty claims.

I emailed them and immediately the next day I received a reply asking for the Serial number, the shipping address and the retail store from which I bought the filter. I replied with the information and that was the last I heard from them. I have sent them 4 more emails since then and they completely ignored them. I have been another victim of their scam.

Apparently Eheim is engaging in fraudulent acitivities, marketing their filters as "Premium" products that come with a 3 year warranty. However, they will try their best NOT to honor the warranty. Maybe I need to call them everyday and write nasty letters to get them to acknowledge my issue. I know some of their victims have received a replacement head unit this way after sending threatening emails and making repeated phone calls. However, it shouldn't have to be this difficult.

I have another Pro 2 filter that also leaked after 6 years of operation. From what I have heard, the company was bought and the quality of customer service has become horrible since then. It is now reaching the point of fraud.

I will never buy another Eheim product again. Beware!!!