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Thread: HELP! BLUE GREEN ALGAE

  1. #1
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    HELP! BLUE GREEN ALGAE

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    Recently i discovered that my plants are covered by something look like spider web, dark green colour and was told by my friend it may be the blue green algae. Can any one help me to solve this problem and how can i prevent it from growing again.
    Remember me so that you will not forget me.

  2. #2
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    Do a search for BGA. This has been discussed in this forum previously. You should be able to find your answer.
    Cheers
    Boon Yong

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    BGA PROBLEM

    Already read the previous topic about bga. Thx.
    Is it a need to buy those chemical like Kn03, P04 to add? Is there any way that i can do to make my garden produce those chemical itself?
    Remember me so that you will not forget me.

  4. #4
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    http://www.aquaticquotient.com/phpbb...ic.php?t=12122

    Try reading this FAQ.

    P04 and NO3 typically comes from fish food. Too much and you are likely to get algae (not all the time but a higher chance) and too little will stunt growth of plants.

    The FAQ will explain the functions of each nutrient and why you need them (and roughly how much).

    You have to determine how much PO4 and NO3 you have before you decide whether to dose. Need to buy test kits for that.

    If you still have queries/clarifications, please post here again.
    Cheers
    Boon Yong

  5. #5
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    However, reliable test kits for PO4 and NO3 is very expensive.

    You may try weekly water change of 50% to reset all the parameters in the tank, in case you made mistake like overdose.

    pH and kH measurement is a MUST because it tells me what my CO2 content is...

  6. #6
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    From the Tropica Aquaruim Plants Book. It stats that a beginners plant "Egeria Densa" can help prevent algae as it absorbs nutrients from the watere and secretes antibiotic substancees which can help prevent blue-gree algae(bacteria).

    regds

  7. #7
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    Had read those related articals regarding Algaes, decided that adding chemicals to my tank will be the last resort to try. Presently i had blackout my tank for 3 days, did 50% water changed.
    After 3 days, still can see some BGA sticking on the leaves, refused to leave, try to clear manually but sill left a bit cant clean.( Almost want to pour hot water to kill it.)

    I had also went down to the highly reconmented Y618 to purchase 5 SAEs, 4 more Yamatos, 2 Otos(left only 2) and 5 pencile fishes. I also bought a pack of coral chips to hang in my tank.

    Lighting hours had dropped from 11hrs to 8hrsper day.
    Co2 incresed to 2bps.

    Now waiting for outcome.
    Remember me so that you will not forget me.

  8. #8
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    I would suggest you do not rely on your bubble counter. Seriously, its more important to check your PH and KH value.

    I think you should let us know your tank and its water conditons, eg your tank size, PH value, KH value, NO3, PO4, Fe and other information for us to help you
    Cheerio,
    Sleepy_lancs
    *~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
    An afternoon trimming my watery garden is better
    then an afternoon with a therapist
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  9. #9
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    Im having a 3x1.5x1.5ft tank using 2x 36w PL and 1x 20w acadia FL.
    About 20 tetra, 2x 3" Discus, 5x SAE, 15x Yamato, 1x Oto,
    5x pencil fish.
    As I do not have any equipment to measure the PH, KH,NO3, PO4 so I cant tell u.
    May get one tomorrow but dont know what brand, how much it cost and why to buy is better.
    Remember me so that you will not forget me.

  10. #10
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    I'm not sure how good you are at algae ID but I'll recommend a general approach at getting rid of the current one.

    1)Remove as much of the algae as possible from the tank. If plant pruning is excessive, get more new plants into the tank and plant heavily. Clean filter after all the disturbances in the tank to get rid of possible algae spores.

    2)Do a large 50-70% water change after a good cleaning up of the tank and replanting if necessary. Add 1/3 teaspoon of KNO3 to the tank after the water change (Do this if you are sure the algae is BGA if not don't add.).

    3)Aerate the tank and stop CO2 injection. Cover the tank up with trash bag or cloth and make sure not light gets in. Do the blackout for 3-5 days depending on the seriousness of the algae bloom.

    4)Upon completion of blackout, remove all the left over dead algae if any and then do another 50-70% water change. Crank in the CO2 and ensure that it stays within 20-30ppm range throughout the entire photoperiod before adding the stuff I suggest you add. (The CO2 is critical so make sure you take care of it before adding any fertilizer.)

    5)Once the CO2 is taken care of, you can add the following once per week after the water change with the amount of light you have over your tank.
    Add 1/3 teaspoon of KNO3 after weekly 50% water change. (~7ppm of NO3)
    Add 1/3 teaspoon of K2SO4 after weekly 50% water change. (~5ppm of K)
    Add slightly less than 1/16 teaspoon of KH2PO4 after weekly 50% water change. (~ 1ppm of PO4)
    Add 10ml of traces once per week after weekly 50% water change (Tropica Master Grow, Seachem flourish or etc.)

    6)Repeat the routine for at least 3 weeks to see the effect.

    Regards
    Peter Gwee

  11. #11
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    I've followed 1-4 and so far, it seems to work fine for me insofar as getting rid of the algae is concerned.

  12. #12
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    After reduceing the lighting hrs from 11 to 8, increased CO2 to 2-3bps,
    switch off the uv lighting, brought in a group of algae fighter like Yamato,
    SAE, OTOS, the algae seems to be under control. Only left with those
    stick to my Rotala Wallichii leaves which is difficult to clear. Those spot algae that grow on the glass also doesnt seem to grow any more, only last day of the week which im about to change water then i see a bit.

    Today just bought 1kg of KN03 and 250g of PO4(HPC) from ECO CULTURE.
    Intend to add after water change.
    Will add 1/3 teaspoon of KNO3 and 1/16 teaspoon of PO4, hope its
    correct dosage. Wanted to buy KNO3 test kit but out of stock.
    Will pose again if there is any changes.
    Remember me so that you will not forget me.

  13. #13
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    Keep a close eye on the CO2 for things to work well. If that is out of whack, nothing would work well. The efficiency of the CO2 reactor place a very important part when using DIY CO2. You might need to look at improving the reactor design. A small powerhead hooked up with those typical taiwan "green reactor" works very well. Just need to remove those large bioballs and change to those smaller ones and packed it heavily. Place the powerhead such that the suction end is pointing to the surface and feed CO2 into the suction side. When the powerhead is off, the bubbles simply escape to the surface and you get semi-automated CO2 using DIY CO2 even. Oh, remember to tied off the CO2 injection point for the "green reactor" by installing a check valve there or cork glue a plastic piece to block the hole.

    Regards
    Peter Gwee

  14. #14
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    hi to all,

    Just wondering if the 3-5 days pf blackout will have any negative effect on the well-being of the fishes in the tank. (esp the discus) Do u still feed during this period or let the fishes fast?

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    Re:

    [quote:87122a22ea="eidos"]hi to all,

    Just wondering if the 3-5 days pf blackout will have any negative effect on the well-being of the fishes in the tank. (esp the discus) Do u still feed during this period or let the fishes fast? [/quote:87122a22ea]

    During the blackout period, i did not give them any feeding. Anyway
    it last only 3 days. I think it should be alright even for 5 days as i
    believe they can actually fast for 1 week.
    The main difficulty is not the fish but u urself as u will always b
    tempted to peep into the tank and this will let the like 2 escape into the tank.
    Remember me so that you will not forget me.

  16. #16
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    eidos,

    in my case, I still fed them everyday. However, since I feed them in the morning at 6.30 a.m., it's still dark anyway.

    however, should be fine even if you don't feed. read an article once which said that fish in the wild rarely have food in their stomachs when caught. Those that do, less than 25% of stomach contains food. In fact, if you don't feed them, they may even help with algae removal by eating algae (not bga though)

  17. #17
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    by the way, this bluegreen algae (BGA) discussed here... is it those that are like a thin layer of greenish stuff that covers plants and glass? cuz i'm having problems with this type of algae in my tank right now. They can be easily removed by siphoning off by using the siphoning tube to lightly scrap it off surfaces.
    I just bought a bag of malayan shrimps today... just wondering if they eat this type of algae...
    I recently bought a CO2 reactor and up my CO2 to increase the efficiency and amt of co2. hopefully this can help to reduce algae problem? :P

  18. #18
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    No critters is going to touch that for sure. A blackout would kill it but you would need to go after the root cause of things which is the NO3. It probably bottom for quite some time already and stunt your plants.

    Regards
    Peter Gwee

  19. #19
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    Re:

    [quote:a64afb6fc7="eidos"]by the way, this bluegreen algae (BGA) discussed here... is it those that are like a thin layer of greenish stuff that covers plants and glass? cuz i'm having problems with this type of algae in my tank right now. They can be easily removed by siphoning off by using the siphoning tube to lightly scrap it off surfaces.
    I just bought a bag of malayan shrimps today... just wondering if they eat this type of algae...
    I recently bought a CO2 reactor and up my CO2 to increase the efficiency and amt of co2. hopefully this can help to reduce algae problem? :P[/quote:a64afb6fc7]

    Try 2 control the algae first by increasing the CO2 level is correct. You
    will need to reduce the lighting hrs to max 8 hrs only.
    KN03 test kit is a must, coz u need to make sure it doesnt drop
    to 0ppm. With the test kit then u will know how much KN03 u need to add
    and dont forget ur P04.
    Remember me so that you will not forget me.

  20. #20
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    thanks for the tips.. i have just adjusted my timer to 8hrs.
    Any recommendation on a good KNO3 test kit and how much does it costs?
    Cheers!

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