I don't think someone would connect his co2 tank to that pump. The volume of co2 in his co2 tank might diminish in a day. That pump is connected to a tube which drawn in air at a high rate, a normal co2 tank won't last long.
Darn hilarious right? i.e. like a server room that caught fire & is being extinguished with overhead fire control systems. Maybe the (CO2) bubbles will permeate the body of the fauna directly through the skin?!
That said, I didn't realise a simple change in impeller form factor will equate to such a big difference in how much the water output is being "chopped"...
I don't think someone would connect his co2 tank to that pump. The volume of co2 in his co2 tank might diminish in a day. That pump is connected to a tube which drawn in air at a high rate, a normal co2 tank won't last long.
If you've learnt, teach, if you have, give.
Don't walk behind me as I might not lead, don't walk in front of me as I might not follow. Walk beside me, as my friend.
Mohamad Rohaizal is my name. If it's too hard, use BFG. I don't mind.
I did, you still have to use a regulator/solenoid on the co2 side. The low pressure from the venturi effect by the pump isn't strong enough to bypass the regulator. You have to set lower co2 flow rate than norm.
Such setup I used it to distribute co2 to high volume of water. You may need to modify for adaptation to very small volumes.
Hi fellows, a couple of quick questions:
Qn1: for the turning knob at the top of the CO2 cylinder, is there meant to be significant play/allowance (not as much as a quarter turn,but say, 1/10 of a full circle), even when the cylinder is supposed to be "off"/sealed?
Qn2: is there any way to take out the entire turning knob (from the cylinder) when we are dealing with a full cylinder (it's full; but not in use; just on standby)?
I'm not 100% sure about your question. However, I normally fully open the main valve. There is no possibility that the entire know come off. I'm sure you will need spanner to take it out, so unless you have very-very strong hand
Okay, perhaps a video will illustrate my question better:
is the black knob suppose to have this amount of play/allowance when the cylinder's not deployed for active use?
So, with respect to the video, is it possible to extract the black turning knob (less the golden parts) out (& safely put it back again later)?
o yes, I believe it is by design for safety so that you not accidentally turn.
I never try to take out the knob but I suppose it is possible by unscrewing the screw at the center
Actually I asked because I wanted to remove the knob for painting/spraying. I saw another Malaysian forummer did it but I'm unsure if he unscrew it when his cylinder is completely empty or when there's still some CO2 left in the cylinder. I pretty much wouldn't like an uncontrolled release of gas in my room if I can help it, haha!
Empty probably safer
Btw, do we fill up the bubble counter with plain water or something more viscous, i.e. glycerine, or mineral oil?
Plain 'ol tap water will do just fine
I'm back & keeping 'em fingers wet,
Ronnie Lee
Alamak... why would you want to inject glycerine???!!! What Robert is saying, is that when you inject LOTS of COČ, the viscosity of glycerine slows down the ascending speed of bubbles reaching the surface, hence allowing the user to count beyond 5bps.
But.... if you really feel like injecting glycerine, report back to tell us how your plants like it!!
I'm back & keeping 'em fingers wet,
Ronnie Lee
OK I should say .....its easier to count when you injects a lots of CO2...
Hi fellows, I have some further questions:
Q1: can check valves & inline diffusers (atomizers) be orientated horizontally instead of their vertical orientation (as shown in many photos)? Will their functionality be affected?
Qn2: will it matter if the tubing between the various CO2 equipment is too short, e.g. between bubble counter & regulator, between the check valve & the diffuser, etc.? As I understand for filtration, shorter filter hoses (& lesser bends, for that matter) equals to improved flow-rate, but I'm unsure if the same concept can be applied to CO2 injection? I'm not looking to increase the "flow-rate" of the gas though, but just wondering about negative impact.
Q3: For check valves like the ADA cabochon ruby, how do we determine which end faces the water source versus which end faces the gas supply?
Q4: For the "CAL Double Counter" (image below), since both ends are open, how do I actually fill it up with liquid during setup?
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