will still the same even with external probe. External probe just to get more accurate reading. In the case where chiller in the cabinet without proper ventilation, it is just no way for the chiller to dump out the heat.
The chiller will work and kick in as per normal using external probe...?
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will still the same even with external probe. External probe just to get more accurate reading. In the case where chiller in the cabinet without proper ventilation, it is just no way for the chiller to dump out the heat.
Shadow has a detailed explanation on his blog on how an external probe helps with frequent kick in and out so I'm not going to try and explain here.
The short answer is that the probe is for sensing water temperature and has nothing to do (and will not help with) the hot air issue we are talking about.
An easy way to understand this is to just sit in the exhaust air of the chiller when it is running, stick one hand in the cooling water of your tank, and see how you feel. Cooling? Or sweating?
The chiller needs to dump the heat it has absorbed from the water (plus the heat produced by itself to transfer the heat against the temperature gradient) into the surrounding air. The cooler the air, the faster this heat can be dumped and the sooner more heat can be absorbed from the water. When the air is warm, this process slows down and the chiller has to kick in longer. If the air ever heats up to a temperature that's higher than the chiller's exhaust temperature, then heat transfer stops (it's not possible to passively move heat against temperature gradient) and the chiller will keep running until it overheats and shutsdown (or catches fire).
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