Your internal filter must be powerful enough to turn the balls in the reactor, if not it is pretty much the same as just injecting huge bubbles. However, I always do not recommend using DIY Co2 as it is very inconsistent
Hi everyone, just curious to know which is more efficient in dissolving CO2 into the reactor? I am using DIY CO2 by the way. Previously I was using the mini filter to chop CO2 bubbles without the reactor.
1) Connect CO2 tubing to internal filter/powerhead to chop up CO2 bubbles > CO2 Reactor > Micro bubbles in tank
2) Connect CO2 to reactor inlet and let powerhead dissolve CO2 with the air pocket form at the top > almost no bubbles in tank
Here's a picture of my nano CO2 reactor.
20141108_183838.jpg
Your internal filter must be powerful enough to turn the balls in the reactor, if not it is pretty much the same as just injecting huge bubbles. However, I always do not recommend using DIY Co2 as it is very inconsistent
Holy is the Lord, God Almighty ! The Earth is filled with His Glory !
90 x 50 x 50 cm tank: Eheim 2217; ANS CO2 Solenoid with 60mm intense bazooka; Zetlight 6400; Teco 500 Chiller; Borneo Wild Steel inlet/outlet
Ferts: Dry Mixture/Dr Mallicks. Temp: 26 degrees Substrate: ADA Amazonia
Sorry forgot to add, you are better off using a ceramic diffuser.
Holy is the Lord, God Almighty ! The Earth is filled with His Glory !
90 x 50 x 50 cm tank: Eheim 2217; ANS CO2 Solenoid with 60mm intense bazooka; Zetlight 6400; Teco 500 Chiller; Borneo Wild Steel inlet/outlet
Ferts: Dry Mixture/Dr Mallicks. Temp: 26 degrees Substrate: ADA Amazonia
Thanks for the feedback, however I am on a budget now, will consider going pressurized co2 soon. Why is important for the bioballs to turn? To create vortex inside the reactor? I thought the purpose of the balls was to provide flow resistance and trap co2 bubbles. Sorry, still kinda confused with the bioball purpose. As for ceramic diffuser, I believe it is hit or miss with DIY co2 due to the pressure required to operate?
The plastic bio-balls in that particular reactor design are meant to bob around and spin using the flow of the powerhead to agitate and mix the pocket of Co2 that is collected at the top of the reactor chamber, how well it works depends on the size of the diffuser chamber in relation to the BPS injection rate and powerhead flow rate.
To find out whether its efficient, you'll have to use a drop checker to monitor the Co2 levels, if you can get it to a lime green indicator color during the active photoperiod, then that means there is sufficient Co2 in the water for the plants to utilize.
Thought of getting the nano co2 reactor today but lucky didn't..
Let's say if im on hob filter.. and I plug the co2 supply into the diffuser, will that be effective?
Bean + Kurt
Yes. It is but not 100%. As the splashing of water from the HOB may cause loss of co2 but not as bad.
Holy is the Lord, God Almighty ! The Earth is filled with His Glory !
90 x 50 x 50 cm tank: Eheim 2217; ANS CO2 Solenoid with 60mm intense bazooka; Zetlight 6400; Teco 500 Chiller; Borneo Wild Steel inlet/outlet
Ferts: Dry Mixture/Dr Mallicks. Temp: 26 degrees Substrate: ADA Amazonia
Ok looks like drop checker is the effective way to check co2. However, I've read Shadow's blog stating that co2 misting method will result inaccuracy as the co2 bubbles might enter the drop checker and cause false reading. So I guess I will just assume the first method of micro bubbles is better. :P
http://aquatic-art.blogspot.sg/2011/...arium.html?m=1
Its true that drop checker readings do get affected if micro Co2 bubbles keep drifting directly into it... but you can minimize this effect by placing the drop checker in an area of the tank where no or few visible micro bubbles flow by.
If you are using a Co2 reactor and its working properly, then there shouldn't be any micro Co2 bubbles floating around anyways, so there'll be no issues with that.
Drop checkers are still the easiest way to get a gauge of the Co2 levels in a tank, otherwise its very difficult to know for sure just by looking at bubbles.
Bookmarks