if you are using the Nutrafin black container with diy stuff to produce co2. Hooking it up to the flipper is sufficent.
if you are using the Nutrafin black container with diy stuff to produce co2. Hooking it up to the flipper is sufficent.
Cheerio,
Sleepy_lancs
*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
An afternoon trimming my watery garden is better
then an afternoon with a therapist
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Thanks Bro.
Reasonably happy with the results, but just wondered whether the DIY mixture and cannister setup would generate enough pressure to actually work well with a reactor / airstone / diffuser.
should be okay. The flipper is very good as a diffuser. Don't waste it. The only thing that is against it is the size. Other wise its a perfect piece of instrument. Remember to have check valve. To prevent backflow.
Cheerio,
Sleepy_lancs
*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
An afternoon trimming my watery garden is better
then an afternoon with a therapist
*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
I don't think a yeast solution will produce enough pressure for ceramic diffusers, and the flipper is actually quite an efficient diffuser if you use it correctly, u can see the bubbles shrinking as they rise...
I have a Dennerle flipper for sale @ $35 if you haven't got yours.
I'm back!
Hi Guys,
Thanks for the input.
Have the flipper, nice results (can see bubbles shrinking nicely on the way up, good rates with DIY solution too. Plants are growing much better under the CO2.
Quite pleased with it.
Will probably just try a reactor with pressurized system when i get round to setting up a bigger planted tank.
Check the pH and KH before you comment on the efficiency of the flipper. Although I have no experience with a flipper at all, I doubt it is an efficient way of dissolving CO2. You might consider bubbling the CO2 into a small powerhead instead. Fix the powerhead such that the suction side is facing the top of the tank and hook up the CO2 line near it. As the powerhead starts, it will create a positive suction pressure and will draw the CO2 into the impeller where the bubble would be smashed into hundreds/thousands of small tiny pearls and shoot it into the plants.. You can also further improve things by hooking the output of the powerhead to a small reactor to breakpup the flow (more contact time for CO2 to dissolve) and then add a rainbar to the output of your reactor to be fixed at the bottom back of the tank with the holes pointing towards the front of the tank. (In this way, you get a slow even CO2 rich current across into the plants which will then travel up slowly before hitting the surface...good circulation improves CO2 response time and ensures all plants get the CO2 well.) With this method, I have less variation in pH (0.1 difference at most) and can keep the CO2 at the 20-30ppm range within 1/2-1hr or so after the lights come on. (CO2 is on together with the lights..)
Note: Do not fill the DIY bottle up to the brim or else the solution might get sucked into the powerhead. Also make sure the bottle you are using is rigid enough and will not collapse due to suction pressure. (Those soft drink bottles are not really good for this type of method..I think the nutra-fin bottles are quite rigid.)
Oh, just to add...this is actually Tom Barr's method. I have quite a variation in pH (0.4 shift for the entire photoperiod) and fail to hit good CO2 levels within an hour or so after the CO2 is on with the lights before I start employing this method which solve the whole issue.
Regards
Peter Gwee
Thanks Peter for the detailed response.
Had read a similar method before: Connect the CO2 tube to airstone, place at suction point of powerhead or internal filters, or the air suction point on those internal filters and connect to rainbar. A reactor may be an overkill for a 2 footer, but may try one of those cheaper ones at the LFS.
Will try that tomorrow and post results.
Overkill? I have one in my 2footer tank...its how you hide it that is important in terms of presentation. Getting good CO2 response time is important in my opinion and experience. I'm not sure why no folks ever question this but I do and had went to try different methods just to improve on the response time. Getting the CO2 system up and responsive is critical in a high light tank. You will run into little problems if you do that.
Regards
Peter Gwee
Peter,
Agree with you totally on the response time.
Was initially concerned that the Nutrafin DIY setup would not generate enough pressure to work with an airstone / reactor setup. Will try it.
Thanks very much for the input.
Regards,
Stephen
I actually connect 2 nutrafin canister together with a control valve for each to boost the flowrate to one flipper and also to "smooth" out fluctuation in supply due to the time for yeast reaction during each replenishment of canister so that when one is started, the other is at its peak reaction rate.
so far the result seems good.
As long as you can keep the CO2 within the 20-30ppm range during the entire photoperiod, you had the CO2 nailed for good. DIY needs constant replenishing of the brew in order to keep up with things. Keep a close eye on that day in day out or else things can go bad real quick if you run out on the CO2.
Regards
Peter Gwee
Bros,
Thanks for the advise.
Got the setup going with a cheap reactor connected to the filter outlet and rainbar etc.
As expected, big difference. Much better concentration levels of CO2 all round the tank.
Plants going through a very nice little growth spurt.
Got a spare cannister for backup with Y-valve setup, so much easier on the parameter swings.
Now only thing is to get my lighting on right.
Believe my 55W FL tube is running a little dimmer now - riccia floating on top pearling nicely, but those submerged not quite there yet.
Thanks once again for the input.
Just looking forward to the day when i can get my hands on a bigger tank and do the whole pressurized setup and all.
using the nutrafin as well.. but what is the first mark and second mark on the bottle?? is that the mark on the outside or the inside?
[quote:b15cf6131f="buddy"]...... but what is the first mark and second mark on the bottle?? is that the mark on the outside or the inside?[/quote:b15cf6131f]
They're on the inside.... jutting out from the "side/wall" of the canister
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