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when things in a planted aquarium are balanced, you'll have o2 saturation (bubbling plants). so your filter will have all the o2 it requires.
if not wrong, equilibrium co2 should be around < 3ppm.
I don't know if this is the correct section to post this...
A few of us went down for the planted tanks workshop at ecoculture today, and what mainly went thru was on plant nutrition(macro, micro nutrients).
At one pt, Dr Mallick mentioned that filters should be more like those wet/dry or overhead filters that splash water through a column, or introducing air to a filter via ventri valve, so as to introduce maximum O2 for the nitrosomoas n nitrobacter. this is said to improve dramatically the NH4 -> NO3 conversion.
However, i believe most of us use "sealed" cannister filters with no introduction of atmospheric O2 to the biological filter. The main point was not to let CO2 diffuse back to the air. That also meant that there would be less O2 for the bacteria, n hence less bacteria, less bio filtration. (than as compared to the initial filter).
This point is true, but ive been thinking. If we were to set the CO2 diffusion n H20 intake on opposite sites of the tank, n set walls of plants in between, by the time the water reaches the filter, most of the CO2 would have been taken up by the plants? This maximises the potential of a filter n also checks the loss of CO2 to the atmosphere.
Comments n views on this issue?
Oh, and does anyone know the ppm for CO2 that would be at equilibriuym with atmospheric CO2?
when things in a planted aquarium are balanced, you'll have o2 saturation (bubbling plants). so your filter will have all the o2 it requires.
if not wrong, equilibrium co2 should be around < 3ppm.
Dr Mallick's point of view is base only on how filters work but that idea does not apply in a planted tank like what tawauboy has said. Plants produce loads of O2 when they are growing well...far beyond any air-pump or powerhead venturi can add (those mechanical equipment work by moving the surface water for more gas exchange at the surface and not add O2 directly as most folks seem to be thinking.). Another point to note is that filters in a planted tank acts only as a backup in case the plants slow down or stunt for some reason or else there is simply no need for it.
CO2 equilibrium should be less than 1 from what I have read...
Regards
Peter Gwee
true.. but concern is at the filter itself, while there is no "topping up" of O2 there, it is being used up by the bacteria. so as the water progresses there is less O2 for the bacteria. =>less ammonia conversion. whereas for the wet/dry filter O2 available at all points of the filter. At least, that is my theory. I still agree with using a sealed cannister type, owing to the fact so many are using with great results. Is there anyway to test the amt of O2 & NO3 regionally, say jus at the filter outlet?
You do not have to worry so much...it isn't going to happen unless you start to see your critters gasping for air at the surface. Folks into planted tanks sometimes get obsess with conserving CO2 that they stop all surface movement and that is when the lack of O2 problem can come in. Have some surface movement but not too much to drive off loads of CO2. In this way, you will not have much issues with critters and bacteria.
Regards
Peter Gwee
yup. that makes sense. Moderation is the key to everything. Obssession leads to decadence... or smtg like that. Thanks for ur input!
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