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Thread: Hydor canister filter: a (dumb) question

  1. #1
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    Hydor canister filter: a (dumb) question

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    This is probably a really dumb question; I apologize as this is my first time using an external filter.

    What's the correct position of the tube taps when the filter is in operation? Is this like this:



    Or are the two taps supposed to be aligned perpendicular to the tube?

    Thanks.)

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    parallel is open. what u hv now is closed.

    when canister is off, fill up with water and close it.
    then open the slot at the top (blue ring) and fill with water.
    close it.
    turn taps to parallel with tube and switch on canister.
    hydor is self priming so wait a little while as the canister kicks in
    Last edited by mordrake; 26th Sep 2006 at 22:42. Reason: my bad english :D
    Cheers,
    Melvin Lim

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    Those are closed.

    There is a universal logic to tap designs... think of them as blocking the flow in the current position. To 'unblock' the flow, they should be aline parallel to the direction of flow.
    Vincent - AQ is for everyone, but not for 'u' and 'mi'.
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    Perpendicular means at right angles.

    Perpendicular is closed. The picture shows the taps in perpendicular position.
    Vincent - AQ is for everyone, but not for 'u' and 'mi'.
    Why use punctuation? See what a difference it makes:
    A woman, without her man, is nothing.
    A woman: without her, man is nothing.

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    Got it; thanks.) I was looking at the instruction manual and they all had it in the perpendicular position, so I thought that'd mean it's open.

    My comments on the filter: it works pretty OK, although for the several minutes it took to prime, it made a dreadful din that lasted too long. Got a little worried, so switched off everything, restarted - this time pouring more water than before into the priming hole, and filled up the canister to the brim too. Worked like a charm the second time round.

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    I've got another observation and wanted to ask if others have experienced this thing before.

    I've got a small internal filter, and the water temperature was usually 28 to 29 degrees. With this additional canister filter, the water temperature average has gone up by around 2 degrees to around 31 degrees average for the same times of the day. Is this normal?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wzierbovsky View Post
    I've got another observation and wanted to ask if others have experienced this thing before.

    I've got a small internal filter, and the water temperature was usually 28 to 29 degrees. With this additional canister filter, the water temperature average has gone up by around 2 degrees to around 31 degrees average for the same times of the day. Is this normal?
    Theorically, yes.
    All motor (in filters, actually, in general too) causes heat and uses water flowing through to cool them down. It is another reason why most if not all filters will get "burned" if ran too long without water.
    Cheers and Regards,
    Billy Cheong

    I'm not always dumb,
    Just most of the time...

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    when u are new to canisters, it usually takes long to prime it and start it up. but from my experience, i came up with a very simple rule.

    just make sure that the outlet tube is free off water and make sure that the inlet tube is filled with water. thats all.

    when i start up a canister new without water, this is basically what i do:
    -fill the canister with water, not necessary to be very very full, just enough to comfortably close it.
    -then i make sure the taps on inlet and outlet tubes are closed, in this case perpendicular position.
    -then i unscrew the inlet tube and with my mouth suck out water and immediately aim the tube into another container. ensure that water is flowing out of the inlet tube with no air bubbles then turn the taps off.
    -screw the taps back on.
    -swith on the power supply n immediately turn on both the taps on the inlet n outlet.

    this works for me all the time...

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    just realised that you fil up the canister using the priming hole. in my life of using canisters, i never done that. haha. i just fill it up with the whole cover open n close it n make sure no water overflows. you might think "but water is not filled to the brim", no worries about that, just fill to maximum level. when you follow the instructions in my previous post, after switching on the power suppl n turing on the taps, you'll hear alot of noise, this is just the sound of the motor running dry for a few seconds because water is being filled up into the canister through the inlet. hope this helps...

    oh ya, hearing motor sounds during start up is normal and temperature rise when using canisters are also normal.

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    Quote Originally Posted by armani View Post

    just make sure that the outlet tube is free off water and make sure that the inlet tube is filled with water. thats all.

    when i start up a canister new without water, this is basically what i do:
    -fill the canister with water, not necessary to be very very full, just enough to comfortably close it.
    -then i make sure the taps on inlet and outlet tubes are closed, in this case perpendicular position.
    -then i unscrew the inlet tube and with my mouth suck out water and immediately aim the tube into another container. ensure that water is flowing out of the inlet tube with no air bubbles then turn the taps off.
    -screw the taps back on.
    -swith on the power supply n immediately turn on both the taps on the inlet n outlet.
    this however is untrue if you are using an Eheim Pro II series canister which has a priming lever or button...

    Your canister must be empty... And your water level should be high enough such that the suction effect created by the priming button will draw eought water to overcome the U-tube and thus automatically creating a siphon effect... If your canister is filled to the brim, no air can be compressed to create the siphon effect...

    Also if you have filters with individual taps (Pro II don't have, hence need to the priming button) and tube are already filled with water, priming is no longer an issue... Just open the taps in the correct sequence...

    People using Classic series can refer to this site...

    http://www.rexgrigg.com/Eheim%20Clas...structions.htm
    ~ Vincent ~ Fishes calm your mind...
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    Quote Originally Posted by valice View Post
    this however is untrue if you are using an Eheim Pro II series canister which has a priming lever or button...

    Your canister must be empty... And your water level should be high enough such that the suction effect created by the priming button will draw eought water to overcome the U-tube and thus automatically creating a siphon effect... If your canister is filled to the brim, no air can be compressed to create the siphon effect...

    Also if you have filters with individual taps (Pro II don't have, hence need to the priming button) and tube are already filled with water, priming is no longer an issue... Just open the taps in the correct sequence...

    People using Classic series can refer to this site...

    http://www.rexgrigg.com/Eheim%20Clas...structions.htm
    oh is it? i didn't know that. haha. thats because i never bought eheiem canisters , poor student. haha. just make do with what i can afford.

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    Yep; the canister's operating pretty alright now in that respect. )

    I'm just a little disconcerted with the substantial rise in water temperature though. The internal filter was raising the water temperature by about 0.5 degrees, whereas this canister is raising it by at least 2 degrees. Guess I'll have to bear with it and have the fan on more often.

    Quote Originally Posted by armani View Post
    oh ya, hearing motor sounds during start up is normal and temperature rise when using canisters are also normal.

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