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Thread: Non Aquatic Pix: Insect World :D

  1. #1
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    Non Aquatic Pix: Insect World :D

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    took some pics at AH, all pictures, resized in PS.. take with 300D, Canon 180mm L 3.5 macro and macro twin flash


    ISO 100, Av 200, f13, FEC -1/3


    ISO 100, Av 200, f18, FEC +1 1/3


    ISO 100, Av 200, f18, FEC +1


    ISO 200, Av 200, f32, FEC +2


    ISO 100, Av 200, f16, FEC +1/2


    ISO 100, Av 200, f16, FEC -2

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    Nice.....

    Hi!

    Very Very veeeeryy nice pics you´ve taken i must say..

    Among the best i´ve seen, and no i´m not kidding either..


    One thing is bothering me though.
    When you´ve made the bakcground black, the objekt itself looks unreal, it doesent belong, so if you would spare the background on some, and do the black background on the rest, it would improve my cred for you. alot.

    Keep it up dude, seriously talented.(with a good camera) ;D
    Currently running 1015liter cubetank 125*125*65 , plants comin in soon. 55*55*40 cubetank, echinodorus plants only. 160*40*45 juweltank with discus. Royal Blue Vf.

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    Re: Nice.....

    [quote:406268ef9d="Slan"]Hi!

    Very Very veeeeryy nice pics you´ve taken i must say..

    Among the best i´ve seen, and no i´m not kidding either..


    One thing is bothering me though.
    When you´ve made the bakcground black, the objekt itself looks unreal, it doesent belong, so if you would spare the background on some, and do the black background on the rest, it would improve my cred for you. alot.

    Keep it up dude, seriously talented.(with a good camera) ;D[/quote:406268ef9d]

    thanks for the comments

    the backgrd is the result of faster shutter speed, filling light in just enough to cover the subject. During brighter days or shooting against brighter backgrd will have a different background. I will go practise more to polish up my skills

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    Ah, pic 4 has a personal attachment to me. That insect has a damn smelly defence weapon. If that is sprayed at you and mixed with sweat, it will last for a week. Watch yourself around them Simon. Get out of the way if it flies toward you. Trust me, you do not want to get it's 'liquid' on you or your equipment.
    If you've learnt, teach, if you have, give.
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    Mohamad Rohaizal is my name. If it's too hard, use BFG. I don't mind.

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    Re:

    [quote:8a2b720924="BFG"]Ah, pic 4 has a personal attachment to me. That insect has a damn smelly defence weapon. If that is sprayed at you and mixed with sweat, it will last for a week. Watch yourself around them Simon. Get out of the way if it flies toward you. Trust me, you do not want to get it's 'liquid' on you or your equipment. [/quote:8a2b720924]

    yeah, i know the smell too :P got sprayed once at my face when I was in school

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    Simon,

    To achieve such macro close ups, with normal SLR (Canon EOS300) do i need to purchase a macro lense? Or is there another cheaper means of getting the same pics?

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    Re:

    [quote:1e11383adb="ah tong"]Simon,

    To achieve such macro close ups, with normal SLR (Canon EOS300) do i need to purchase a macro lense? Or is there another cheaper means of getting the same pics?[/quote:1e11383adb]

    best to get a dedicated macro len, cheaper options can be achieved with closeup filters (but will affect the final sharpness) closeup filters by Hoya is cheap too, compared to the canon one.. which is much better in quality.. or you can consider getting a 2nd hand len 10-30% off the original price depending on condition & age

    personally, I like the canon 100mm but the price is a put off.. one of the best macro is the Tamron 90mm going for 500+ (brand new), these lenses can also be used for portraits shots

    but do think abt what you really like to do before taking the plunge.. for me, I simply like macro photography, so a macro len will be more ideal

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    those who like macro photography..

    here are 2 links i recommend

    http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/board/45
    a dedicated forum for macro

    http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/Macro_links.htm
    resource links to macro photography

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    My favorite would be the first picture.

    The rest are good too, but a bit more exposure control is needed or composition can be improved in my opinion. But these pictures at not something that you see often. Very good quality in my opinion.

    Cheers,
    I have dwarf cichlids in my tanks! Do you?

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    Re:

    [quote:99a5f2d70d="benny"]My favorite would be the first picture.

    The rest are good too, but a bit more exposure control is needed or composition can be improved in my opinion. But these pictures at not something that you see often. Very good quality in my opinion.

    Cheers,[/quote:99a5f2d70d]

    kekekeee... there is always room for improvement :P thats the fun of photography... yeah, i too think exposure or the choice of flash is critical, especially when shooting butterflies :P

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    Re:

    [quote:cd956ebaa1="ah tong"]
    To achieve such macro close ups, with normal SLR (Canon EOS300) do i need to purchase a macro lense? Or is there another cheaper means of getting the same pics?[/quote:cd956ebaa1]
    Consider extension tube. They're cheap and quality can be very high depending on the lens you use. If you're familiar with it, it can at times work better then macro lens. The major setback is you'll lost some lights. But if you do flash macro photography very often like in the dark rainforest floor, then light lost for such tube will not be that a concern.

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    Simon, consider lighting up the background.

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    Re:

    [quote:3f7cb8e538="naturetan"]Simon, consider lighting up the background. [/quote:3f7cb8e538]

    looks like have to use 2 flashes liaoz

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    Either you get a slave flash, or play around with the subject distance with flash. 2nd option depends on how close you are to your subject, flash and background.

    You'll notice that when the distance of:
    Flash to subject = subject to background, flash will light up background about -1.5. Thus you'll not need a background flash and it will render great!

    The further the background from subject, like double the distance, the number of stops dropped will be about 1 stops or more per subject to flash distance. This can make your background very dark if background distance are rather far. Under this situation, the choice can be:

    1) increase flash distance to subject.
    2) use a slave flash.
    3) move around to look for closer background
    4) get someone to put a false background, eg. leaves, branches, etc.

    Some choice might not be practical due to insect sensitivity to human movement. But for still object, you'll have more to play with.

    Please also note that increasing the flash distance to subject can also change the shadow characteristics compared to nearer distance. You may like to flash far and near to observe the difference, one is harsher, the other is subtler.

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    Re:

    [quote:705549e7="naturetan"]Either you get a slave flash, or play around with the subject distance with flash. 2nd option depends on how close you are to your subject, flash and background.

    You'll notice that when the distance of:
    Flash to subject = subject to background, flash will light up background about -1.5. Thus you'll not need a background flash and it will render great!

    The further the background from subject, like double the distance, the number of stops dropped will be about 1 stops or more per subject to flash distance. This can make your background very dark if background distance are rather far. Under this situation, the choice can be:

    1) increase flash distance to subject.
    2) use a slave flash.
    3) move around to look for closer background
    4) get someone to put a false background, eg. leaves, branches, etc.

    Some choice might not be practical due to insect sensitivity to human movement. But for still object, you'll have more to play with.

    Please also note that increasing the flash distance to subject can also change the shadow characteristics compared to nearer distance. You may like to flash far and near to observe the difference, one is harsher, the other is subtler.[/quote:705549e7]

    thanks for the advise, shall try it out

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    Re:

    There's another option I forgot to mention. Meter the ambient light, stop down about 2 stops +- 1/2 to 1 stops depending on how you like the final results to be, then use fill flash. This works well if the subject are not moving for sometime, else if moving, you'll have to rely fully on flash.

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