Plant is not green ;o(

**ramenking** · 10th Jun 2013, 19:52

Hi, I started a simple tank with some plants a few months back. The plants are growing well except for a particular one that has a dull-brownish green colour. Is there something that I am not doing correctly?

Can someone help? The lights and carbon dioxide is running 24/7.

**TS168** · 10th Jun 2013, 20:51

what is yout tank temperature? there seen to be too many fishes.

and the moss seen to be converting from emmerse to submerse, as from the picture, there some new grow. Hope it the start.

**thebaldingaquarist** · 10th Jun 2013, 21:44

Hi,

Here are some advice, hope you go through them.
1. do not leave your CO2 and lights on 24/7, follow a 8 hour ( i recommend 6 in your case) photo period. Turn on your CO2 when your lights are on.
2. Reduce the number of fishes. I do hope you have a filter thats good enough to go through all the waste your fish produce in that tank.
3. whats the depth of the soil? If its more than 3 inches in the front, you probably want to reduce the depth to about 2 inches.

Regards.

**felix_fx2** · 10th Jun 2013, 22:13

no need 24/7 your lights, the plant after 8-10 hours will not photosynthesize. (and your wasting electricity)
if you do not have a timer, time to get one. You can connect the lights to it so can on/off with help from timer.

if the co2 has a electrical solenoid valve, you can also attach it. Else just leave it as it is for the time being.

**diazman** · 11th Jun 2013, 07:59

It may not be the light. Try rinsing the moss in clean water - it may be covered in debris. The moss looks healthy IMO. I assume its java moss? If yes, these tend to adopt the brownish appearance as they get debris on them easily.

**sammajor** · 11th Jun 2013, 14:07

Seem like temperature problem.

**ramenking** · 11th Jun 2013, 20:59

Originally Posted by felix_fx2

no need 24/7 your lights, the plant after 8-10 hours will not photosynthesize. (and your wasting electricity)
if you do not have a timer, time to get one. You can connect the lights to it so can on/off with help from timer.

if the co2 has a electrical solenoid valve, you can also attach it. Else just leave it as it is for the time being.

Thanks! I have started the 8-hr 'turn-on' period. Don't have a solenoid valve so do I have to turn the CO2 off when the lights are off?

**ramenking** · 11th Jun 2013, 21:00

Originally Posted by sammajor

Seem like temperature problem.

Hi Sammajor, the other plants are doing well except for the moss. What is the ideal temperature for the moss? Thanks in advance.

**ramenking** · 11th Jun 2013, 21:03

Originally Posted by Erctheanda

Hi,

Here are some advice, hope you go through them.
1. do not leave your CO2 and lights on 24/7, follow a 8 hour ( i recommend 6 in your case) photo period. Turn on your CO2 when your lights are on.
2. Reduce the number of fishes. I do hope you have a filter thats good enough to go through all the waste your fish produce in that tank.
3. whats the depth of the soil? If its more than 3 inches in the front, you probably want to reduce the depth to about 2 inches.

Regards.

Hi Erctheanda
Yes, I started the 8-hr cycle. My filter is an external canister filter and it is half the size of my tank. Kind of big I think...;o)
What's the effect of the depth of the soil from 3-inches to 2-inches.

Thanks in advance!

**felix_fx2** · 12th Jun 2013, 08:07

Originally Posted by ramenking

Thanks! I have started the 8-hr 'turn-on' period. Don't have a solenoid valve so do I have to turn the CO2 off when the lights are off?

if you can off the co2, it would be a waste & for those high bps pose risk for fish.

you can address it as photoperiod(photosynthesis period)

Sent from my GT-N7105

**thebaldingaquarist** · 12th Jun 2013, 09:23

Originally Posted by ramenking

Hi Erctheanda
Yes, I started the 8-hr cycle. My filter is an external canister filter and it is half the size of my tank. Kind of big I think...;o)
What's the effect of the depth of the soil from 3-inches to 2-inches.

Thanks in advance!

No big deal. just that you might see pockets of air in too deep soil as anaerobic reactions will occur and gases will be accumulated over time.

**Urban Aquaria** · 12th Jun 2013, 16:03

Originally Posted by ramenking

What's the effect of the depth of the soil from 3-inches to 2-inches.

Just to add, for your tank size and shape, a thick substrate in the front tends to make the tank look smaller and shorter... and there is abit less water volume for the fishes too.

If you reduce the substrate thickness in the front (since the main plant in the tank is just moss on wood, not rooted anyways), the tank will probably look more proportionate in scale.

**ramenking** · 14th Jun 2013, 14:43

Originally Posted by Urban Aquaria

Just to add, for your tank size and shape, a thick substrate in the front tends to make the tank look smaller and shorter... and there is abit less water volume for the fishes too.

If you reduce the substrate thickness in the front (since the main plant in the tank is just moss on wood, not rooted anyways), the tank will probably look more proportionate in scale.

Thank you for your tips. I just read your blog and your work is inspiring. Please keep up the good work for the benefit of newbies like us. ;o)

**kohanson** · 21st Jun 2013, 23:32

Originally Posted by diazman

It may not be the light. Try rinsing the moss in clean water - it may be covered in debris. The moss looks healthy IMO. I assume its java moss? If yes, these tend to adopt the brownish appearance as they get debris on them easily.

I agree with diazman. I also have java moss growing in my tank and some looks brown and are growing well. They do trap debris and after you clean, they could be green again. If the stem is green, the debris could be trap on the tiny hairs. But if the stem is dark brown, probably they are dead. Bright green stems = healthy moss.