Melting C. Balansae

[stocker]

I have a low-tech 2ft-tank (20W FL) with base fert and normal gravel. I see my C. Balansae and retrospiralis melting but the rest of the Crypts are not (Wendtii, Ciliata, Becketti, and pontederiifolia), though some of them and H. Difformis have holes in the leaves. I have coral chips in the tank.

Other plants in it are Java Fern, Nana and moss, which seem to be doing fine. Holes in leaves, I read, point to a deficiency in K?

The thing is, this is a low-maint tank, so I am hoping that I would not have to dose anything regularly, so is there any "natural" way anyone can recommend me? In the case where there isn't, please advice on the more suitable "substance" to dose as there are a few which do contain the deficient element, e.g. KNO3, KH2SO4, KCL,...

Thanks!

[PeterGwee]

What critters are you keeping in the tank? Stocking level? For a non-CO2 tank, don't do water changes unless you uproot stuff or mess around with the tank. You also do not need to fertilize with inorganic nutrients except for daily feeding of the critters as the tank is already carbon limited. The critters in return provide nutrients in the form of waste for the plants.

Regards
Peter Gwee

[vinz]

What are you dosing, if at all? How old is the substrate and what's in it?

Your C. balansae and retro-spiralis... Did you just plant them? My C. balansae lost all leaves when I planted them in shade. When one of the rhizomes was uprooted by my fish and left to float for a few days, it grew new leaves. I dug up and replanted the rest in a brighter area and they are now about 1.5 feet tall.

IME, pin holes on leaves can also mean lack of micro nutrients.

[stocker]

Peter,

My critters are 6 white clouds, 2 small platy (to clear up surface scum), 2 ottos, 3 yamatos, 1 C.Paletus, 3 C. Habrosus and 9 young (0.5") C. Hastatus. Hardly do water changes, something like 20% every 3 weeks or less often. Currently, I am feeding 4 times a week, I hestitate to feed every day because sometimes I am out of town, so don't want the critters to get used to daily feedings, is this OK? SO far no problems, most of the critters from 6months to 1 month ago, my ottos and white clouds were there from day 1.

Vinz,
I had tried to dose some Flourish previously, about 1ml/week, BBA started coming out, so I stopped after the 2nd dose. Injected some H2O2 locally, and the yamatos took care of it. I also tried doseing 1ml of Excel, but seems like no effect, so didn't really bother. In fact my Balansae were nice, long and reddish/brownish until recently, when I transferred some new similar balansae into the tank. The thing is, both the new and old (established) Balansae melted and the holes started coming out. My (another) thicker, greener, wavy leafed Balansae is doing fine, no holes or melting. My "coffi" Nana is thriving! (OK, Teos told me both were Balansae, so please don't fault my ID! ) My substrate is JBL base fert with normal gravel and should be more than 6mths

So my melting cryps, I should just wait out right? How about the holes? am I doing something wrongly?

Latest: My other Balansae also developed enlarged holes in one of its leaves... Any quick fixes? Dose something?

[PeterGwee]

Keep the water changes to once every 6 months or so, or whenever you decide to mess with the tank design. The lesser the water changes and low light levels allows the waste to be remineralize into useful nutrients by means of direct consumption or bacteria activity for plants which isn't possible with a CO2 enriched tank.

Is your light evenly distributed? At low light levels (Good for non-CO2 tanks and even CO2 tanks) just make sure the plants don't get shaded or else it will drop its leaves. The other issue is that you are not frequently feeding your fish due to frequent travelling....How long is the stoppage of feedings? If the duration is not long, it shouldn't be much of an issue really unless it is about a couple of weeks or months. The critters waste and food are plant nutrients...stop feeding and nutrients level drop. The impact shouldn't be that great in a non-CO2 tank as the uptake is very low..maybe say 0.2-0.5ppm per day perharps of NO3. If the plants which has the issue is getting enough light, the only other thing would probably be either poor planting technique (you damage it?), crypts melt down (they are sensitive plants) or last but not least lack of critter feedings (consider a auto-feeding device if you find it a hassle to feed yourself or whenever you are out of town.).

Regards
Peter Gwee

[stocker]

Thanks Peter. OK Will follow your advice on the water changes. My light is as distributed as a 20W FL can be, across the middle of the tank. My stoppage of feeding is about 1-2days only. Meanwhile, I will try daily feedings as long as I am around.