You can get them from popular LFS like C328 or Seaview... they are usually packed in those tube packets at the plant retail sections.Originally Posted by limyw
Most other LFS also stock them in pots and displayed at their plant retail tanks too. Its quite a common plant, just have to check around for their stock availability.
UA like yr beautiful setup.. In fact great to have that bushy view as it has plenty of hiding places..,,wonder if you have measured yr water pH and conductivity of this tank all these while?
Can the Eleocharis sp mini survive in soft and acidic water pH 5-5.5 environment? Thank
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*Thank You
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Thanks!
My tank's water pH averages around 6.5. During Co2 injection period it drops to around 5.5.
TDS usually hovers at around 140-180... depends on how "disciplined" i am at doing the weekly water changes.
Eleocharis sp. 'Mini' do grow well in low pH softwater conditions, as do most freshwater aquatic plants.
Hi UA, love the bushy blyxa...hope i can achieve the bushy look in my scape.
Do they grow so bushy with ferts and co2?
Are you dosing dry or liquid fert?
I've grown Blyxa Japonica in low-tech non-Co2 injected tanks before and they still do grow bushy (eventually), but the growth rate is much slower, so have to wait alot longer for it to grow out.Hi UA, love the bushy blyxa...hope i can achieve the bushy look in my scape.
Do they grow so bushy with ferts and co2?
Are you dosing dry or liquid fert?
For this tank, i used Tropica Premium fertilizer (contains no N or P, just K and trace/micros) for the first 6 months, as the ADA Amazonia aquasoil and livestock bio-load were able to generate sufficient nutrients... then as the tank matured and the aquasoil nutrients get depleted and the plant mass grew more dense, i switched over to Tropica Specialized fertilizer (contains all NPK and trace/micros) to support further plant growth.
tks for the reply.
i see you have written your tank as having 64L, so do you follow the recommended dosing amount or do you over dose?
Well, after factoring in soil substrate and hardscape volume (and the empty space at the top since the tank isn't filled to the brim), i worked out the actual water volume to be around 50+ liters, so at the start during the initial grow-out period, i just dosed based on that actual water volume (i do daily dosing regimen, rather than weekly).
As time went by, whenever i noticed plant leaves showing early signs of nutrient deficiency, i increase the dosages slightly... until at one point i was dosing more than double the recommended amount as the plant density became higher. It was just a matter of observing the plant growth and adjusting the dosages as and when required.
UA, have you ever felt like you had to factor bioload into your dosing regiment? like after fauna added you feel like you get abit of excess nutrients inside.
If i'm only dosing K and trace/micro fertilizers, then i don't factor in the bio-load as those nutrients rarely cause issues even when overdosed.
On the otherhand, if i dose additional macro fertilizers like N and P, then i'll factor in the bio-load in order to avoid those particular nutrient levels building up in excess over time.
I guess it also depends on how regularly you perform the necessary water changes to "reset" the nutrient levels... if you can stick to a strict large weekly water change regimen, then its fine to do regular higher dosing amounts from the start like in EI dosing.
Personally, i tend to miss weekly water changes when i'm busy or overseas, and i use low-medium lighting for my tanks, so i try to keep my macro dosing abit more moderate.
I see I get it now. I do weekly changes (only because the water level drops too much each week anyway!) thanks for sharing! have begun dosing Seachem K. I know P is a causing agent for algae, and N is hardly an issue, so I won't be dosing those macros.
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Hi UA
My old Eheim 2228 also has a 750l/hr filter circulation rate. Do you set the outflow level to "1" position(max) or do you tune it somewhere between "1" and "0"(shut off)? What about your inflow level to the canister? At "1" position(max) or do you tune it somewhere between "1" and "0"(shut off)? I'm just concerned that my Eheim might be too powerful for a 2 feet tank which I'm planning to purchase.
TIA.
Do you think your ISTA inline "turbo" reactor works with DIY CO2 injection?The Up Aqua inline diffuser/atomizer i used previously cost around S$30+... the current ISTA inline "turbo" reactor i'm using cost just S$19+.
The actual overall "effective" flow rate depends on various factors, like the type and density of media in the canister, additional equipment installed inline, the type of outflow design and also the layout of the aquascape... the good thing with canister filters that have inbuilt adjustment taps is you can simply tune it to get the most optimal flow current for your particular setup. So its actually better to start with a higher flow rate, then can adjust lower if required.
If most of the debris and waste settle on the substrate rather than being circulated to the intake, then increase the flow... if the livestock and plants are being swirled around the tank like washing machine, then reduce the flow. Its all about fine-tuning the flow rate accordingly.
In my case, with the inline Co2 reactor and glass lily pipe outflow, i run my canister filter at max flow rate (outflow tap fully open) and the current is just right for the tank, the plants sway slightly and the fishes can swim in all areas of the tank without fighting against too much current.
Yes, the ISTA Co2 reactor design does not require high pressure to operate (the Co2 just needs to flow into the reactor chamber to be mixed, no need to push through dense ceramic tubes), so DIY Co2 systems can work with it.
Great journal UA! I read that you used the Tropica 1-2-Grow Eleocharis sp. 'mini' for your carpet? I'm thinking of trying the same but am confused by some information elsewhere on the net that you need to cut the old leaves to induce shorter growth? Did you do so? I wish to have as low maintenance carpet as possible, hence would like to cut down on the trimming.
Hi HBK16
Just to check. Is MC high maintenance or need constant trimming? Thank you
The info posted online on trimming and cutting hairgrass is mainly for species like Eleocharis parvula (aka normal hairgrass), those types of hairgrass grow much taller so they need to be trimmed regularly to maintain a lower carpet.
On the otherhand, Eleocharis sp. 'mini' already has a naturally short growth characteristic, so its not necessary to trim it shorter (i never trimmed my carpet at all), hence much less maintenance required.
Thanks for clarifying UA. May I know the maximum height that your Eleocharis sp. 'mini' grows up to without trimming?
The ones in my tank grew to an average height of around 3cm tall, they stayed around that height while growing more runners and offshoots which gradually formed a dense carpet.
UA where u got this eleocharis SP.mini? Where got sell large range of plant?
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