need help! algae infestation

[stormhawk]

Alright I pretty much have the same problem as Ronnie previously. Too much algae.

Of late, most of my java fern in my main tank have been overgrown by some sort of black tufted algae. They sprout all over the place even on my rainbar. I think you aquaplanters call it Black Beard Algae? I have no idea what this algae is called and would love to thin it down a little. Although I think it has given my a tank a different, more interesting outlook to me (ok I think I'm nuts to love algae), I'd really like to know how to get rid of it. Don't know my tank parameters as I've never really tested the water. All I know is that my gravel is a mix of ADA Amazonia aquasoil with riversand/silver sand and JBL base fert covering just 2/3 of the tank base.

[rthien]

Jianyang,

I'm by no measure an expert in planted tanks but that's what I am into as a hobby.

When I first started out, I got algae outbreaks frequently due to giving the tank too much nutrients. Nowadays, I only dose my tank when my plants are not doing well based on a visual inspection. I've not had BBA for a good 8+ months given that I only started this hobby last August. Fingers crossed!

Read:

http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_algae.htm

He suggest adding NO3 to assist in the removal of BBA. I would add the following into the mix:

- increase CO2
- introduce fast growing plants (notice that you Killie fishkeepers use a lot of Hornwort which does the trick for me)
- did not follow usual recommendation to reduce lighting strength and period. My rationale is that I want the fast growing plants to photosynthesize and consume the excess nutrients (if any) and the CO2 available. This in effect shifts the balance and deprives the algae of the nutrients and thus the capability to thrive further.

The above works for me. Hope it helps you too.

Cheers,

Roger

[FC]

Jian Yang,

I have BBA too but very little and under control. They live on the filter pipes and gravels. BBA stuck very tightly to hard object and they are very difficult to erecdicate. Their hard nature was built up with calcium from water.

I did like what Roger mentioned. Do you suppliment the tank water with calcium? Stop that while you clear them up. Keep the CO2 at about 25~35ppm range during light on.

[hwchoy]

JY, put 4-6 Yamato shrimps and try to preclude them from the feedings. For green algae on glass and plastic parts, get those striped "zebra" snails from Plantas and Eco Culture.

[Wackytpt]

JY, put 4-6 Yamato shrimps and try to preclude them from the feedings. For green algae on glass and plastic parts, get those striped "zebra" snails from Plantas and Eco Culture.

sorry hwchoy, I dun mean to offend u. But yamatos doesn't est BBA

[hwchoy]

JY, put 4-6 Yamato shrimps and try to preclude them from the feedings. For green algae on glass and plastic parts, get those striped "zebra" snails from Plantas and Eco Culture.

sorry hwchoy, I dun mean to offend u. But yamatos doesn't est BBA

No I am not offended as they said “your mileage may vary.” I just had a 1-ft cube full of BBA completely (within practical limits) cleaned by 4 Yamatoes. I have had Yamatoes that does nothing to algae, but my current ones not only eat BBA they also ate my hairgrass.

As I was telling Ronnie, my filter inlet used to be so covered with BBA that it looked like a brush, but one day I suddenly noticed that it is now COMPLETELY BBA-free!

For that matter I also caught my zebra snails feasting on my hairgrass. I haven't had to trim them for the last 6 months.

[kc]

My yamato also eat APP.. what the name..Elantine T..?

[Slaigar]

My yamato also eat APP.. what the name..Elantine T..?

Elatine triandra I think.

If you have any SAEs, you can starve them so that they will eat the algae. Hopefully someone local has some that you can borrow. You might have some of the nutrients from the substrate leeching out. I am unfamilar with the fertilizers so it is just a guess. It can also be the lighting if the lamps are too intense.

My algae problems were from were from my own mix of substrate(clay and sand) which I embedded fertilizer within(which was also my own mix). A week later, a few of my loaches started digging which ended releasing a lot of nutrients!

[hwchoy]

Mark, we have plenty of SAE and they're dirt cheap. Only problem is that again, “your mileage may vary”. I have been lucky with my current trio which is still going after algae even at a size of 5 inches (it is now the biggest fish in my tank). Most people prefer to buy the small one-incher which is believed to be more “disciplined” :wink:

[Slaigar]

JY, put 4-6 Yamato shrimps and try to preclude them from the feedings. For green algae on glass and plastic parts, get those striped "zebra" snails from Plantas and Eco Culture.

Choy, are these Zebra (Nerita sp.) snails Killi egg safe? I might grab some next time I go out of town. From what I have heard, they are the best algae eating snail. I never purchased them before because I was afraid my loaches were going to have an expensive lunch . But now I got a nano tank(loach free) that could use some scavengers.

How good are Otocinclus for hair algae? I have some in a 65g gallon and I was thinking of placing them in the nano tank as well. But mine are quite lazy and I did not think it was worth the trouble of acclimating them to soft water.

The only hair algae I have seen in my tank was from plants from other people. My SAEs are around 4-5" in size and they did a fine job cleaning the plants. I have found them to be great scavengers and have kept the tank clean even though I over feed. The algae that mine do not eat are the smooth algae on rocks and on the glass. Everything else seems fair game to them.

[stormhawk]

Thanks to all who have given me answers to my "fuzzy" problem. I've got some coral chips in my canister which I think I should remove, plus some odd pieces scattered here and there on the bottom of the tank.

Roger, the hornwort that I have is growing like wildfire even when there's no CO2 injection. It is by far, the fastest growing plant in my tank. Even outgrown the difformis. I'm thinking of removing it actually and rescaping my tank. Maybe remove the java ferns infested with the BBA and giving them a dip in PP solution. Wonder if that will kill the bugger.

Freddy, I'll try to get a proper bubble counter soon. Must rig up the old CO2 tank lying around. Ever since my last bubble counter cracked I decided not to use it. I guess its time I set up the system again. Major rescaping works in plan.

[shortman]

Must rig up the old CO2 tank lying around. Ever since my last bubble counter cracked I decided not to use it.

Jian Yang, when you pull up the old CO2 tank please have it check the date of the CO2 tank. Cause tank might be expired and saftely fixture might not work.

I have a spare bubble counter not used that I can pass it to you during next meet.

Best Regards

[stormhawk]

Kho, thanks for the tip. I checked my CO2 cylinder but it doesn't come with a sticker or label. There are some letters and numbers etched on the top of the tank with this bit -> 04-2002. Is that the expiry date because if it is then I've got an unsafe cylinder with me. In the event of expiry what should one do with the cylinder?

[RonWill]

04-2002 represents the month and year of manufacture. Yours is still 'new' and can be consigned/topped up at some LFS.

Upon expiry of the 'use-by' date, the cylinders can be hydrostatic-tested at say, SOXAL, and revalidated with an extended mth/date stamp. However, bear in mind that aged cylinders are likely to be rejected at smaller estabs.

Jian Yang, if you don't mind an oldish CO² reactor, those clear-green type loaded with bio-balls, you can have mine.

[stormhawk]

Ron, thanks for the offer will keep that in mind. I have a Nutrafin flipper in use at the moment with the Nutrafin CO2 bottle, and some old ceramic diffusers that I got from Biotope a long time ago. The Nutrafin set isn't really adequate for use in a 3ft tank so I'm saving up for a solenoid valve.

Regarding the CO2 tank, if 04-2002 is the date of manufacture then what is the approximate "expiry" date? I'm puzzled on that bit.

Kho, the bubble counter would be great. At least I can rig up my old cylinder and make some use of it before it empties. :wink:

Been thinking about this, how many bottles of DIY CO2 would be adequate for a 3ft

[Slaigar]

The CO2 cylinders should be checked every four years. It can cost a bit to be tested, but well worth it for the safety of the room that it is kept in.

[FC]

Jian Yang,
You probably need 2 DIY CO2 bottles. However, it is more accurate for you to determine the CO2 concentration in the water by measuring the KH & PH. Keep the concentration at 20ppm~30ppm. For example if your KH is 2 and PH is 6.4 then your CO2 concentration is 24 ppm.
I can borrow you my test kits if you need them. I have some spare things on CO2 injection use here and there, let me know if you need them. I do not have spare solenoid, though. Let me know before our next meet.

[shortman]

Jian Yang,

Your CO2 tank is still in good shape.
Go to NA and have it exchange as in top up the CO2.

I will pass you my Bubble Counter and the solenoid valve during our next meet.

Best Regards

[stormhawk]

Kho, thanks alot for the equipment you're going to pass me. :wink: Decided to re-decorate my tank and do a proper planting plan. Should be posting up some illustrations of the plans. As for the CO2 tank it was in service for less than a week before I put it into storage. Didn't use it much then because without a solenoid I couldn't control the use of the gas as and when I preferred. With the solenoid I think this time I'll have a planted tank that I can be proud of. Look out for the new thread on my planting plans Sure would love some comments.