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Thread: Iodine in your tank

  1. #21
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    Re:

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    [quote:d480555598="Kross"]Do away with all the chemicals(fertilizers, buffers,etc...), 24hrs airstone, moderate co2, clean H2O, top up when H2O low and you might see the difference. Works for me.[/quote:d480555598]

    Horror of horrors! It has hit my tank!

    I added 10 cherry shrimps, 2 mosquito shrimps, 4 yamato and a hifin Zebra danio last night. I have never quarantined my fishes prior to releasing in the tank, neither did I dip them in any dip, and I did what I normally do when introducing new fish -- float the bag to balance temp, then slowly mix tank water into the bag to balance pH, then release fish into the tank with a scoop net.

    0800 hrs This morning, I was glad to see all the shrimps alive except the mosquito shripms that had been bullied the whole night by the rummynose. Discardrd the carcasses and fed the usual pellets.

    1200hrs, found 3 yamatos, 4 cherry shrimps dead. As usual, I wonder why they can last thru the night, appear in the morning feeding like there is no problem and then suddenly die. Discarded the bodies, and noticed that some of my neons and rummynose had died too! These are old fish that had been with me for months, and suddenly they die. their stomach are bloated and there is a pale streak across their back. Suspect to be neon tetra disease, but I don't see any of the others alive, carrying any sign so I left them alone.

    1400hrs, found a whole bunch of tetras gasping at the surface gills flared and swollen although the CO2 level is now a low of 15ppm. Ammonia: 0, Nitrite: 0.2ppm. Unsuccessful catching them, and got only 2 out in a salt bath -- plants make it impossible to catch even the sick fish.

    On further inspection of the tank, I see some sort of a "leech" that was crawling along the glass next to the substrate . It is transparent, has a teardrop shape where the head is at the point of the teardrop. I can see its insides where something like orange coloured "eggs" are arranged in a sun pattern, surrounding the insides which are tiny yellow dots. I turned my head, and it is gone.

    I have mixed 10 ml of rock salt into the 30 litres of water in the tank. Is there anything else that I should do? Does the bacteria infect a tank in such a short time? ( 13-15 hours)
    Warm regards,

    Lawrence Lee

    brothers, whatever is true, whatever is noble, whatever is right, whatever is pure, whatever is lovely, whatever is admirable--if anything is excellent or praiseworthy--think about such things.
    Philippians 4:8

  2. #22
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    I suggest you revamp your tank/filter system. :P
    What da fish!

  3. #23
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    Lawrence, you are getting readings on your NO2 kit? Something doesn't seems right if nitrite is still present in a planted tank. You should never get a reading on the kit if your tank is heavily planted and in good shape. Clean the water column up by doing a large water change of 50-70% to get rid of all the unknowns and stuff you have been throwing in. Add back the baking soda to get a KH of 3 at least. (Note the amount needed to hit the value and add that back only after the next water change.) Crank the CO2 in to get a pH of 6.4-6.5 and maintain it there for the entire photoperiod. Get some surface movement going instead of the night time aeration. You may loose some CO2 during the day but it can be overcome by cranking the bubble rate up slightly. Add back the nutrients..N,P,K, GH and traces and ensure that they do not run out for the week. Repeat the large water change to reset the tank and repeat the nutrients. If plant mass is low, add more plants...pack the tank with it..not just a few stalks..

    Healthy plants equals to healthy critters..Its a notion that always holds..

    Regards
    Peter Gwee

  4. #24
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    Re:

    [quote:e8a2d9cf0b="PeterGwee"]Lawrence, you are getting readings on your NO2 kit? Something doesn't seems right if nitrite is still present in a planted tank. You should never get a reading on the kit if your tank is heavily planted and in good shape. Clean the water column up by doing a large water change of 50-70% to get rid of all the unknowns and stuff you have been throwing in. Add back the baking soda to get a KH of 3 at least. (Note the amount needed to hit the value and add that back only after the next water change.) Crank the CO2 in to get a pH of 6.4-6.5 and maintain it there for the entire photoperiod. Get some surface movement going instead of the night time aeration. You may loose some CO2 during the day but it can be overcome by cranking the bubble rate up slightly. Add back the nutrients..N,P,K, GH and traces and ensure that they do not run out for the week. Repeat the large water change to reset the tank and repeat the nutrients. If plant mass is low, add more plants...pack the tank with it..not just a few stalks..

    Healthy plants equals to healthy critters..Its a notion that always holds..

    Regards
    Peter Gwee [/quote:e8a2d9cf0b]

    Yes, NO2 readings are from a testkit. I've tried it on various other plant free receptacles that holds fish in various stages of cycling, and when properly cycled, I get 0ppm NO2, so I know that this kit has some amount of accuracy. However for this tank... it's a different story. 0.2 of nitrite is as best as I can get, even after gravel vacuuming and 80% water change.

    Currently, I'm running on kH 5 deg from baking soda, pH 7.0. I usually add what I have to add into the water before I pour it into the tank. Water change is weekly, every Wednesday night.

    I've been well and truly hit by neon tetra disease. Every hour, I see one or 2 of my tetras or sae wear a white saddle, and then expire. I have managed to catch a few out and soak them in a salt bath. The rest are just too quick for me to catch, in a heavily planted environment. So I wait to pick their carcasses from the gravel.

    I'm not sure if the salt dip is working or not as I soak them for an hour, then transfer them into a tub filled with my previous plant trimmings, and I've not seen them nor their carcasses since.

    Obviously, the 10ml of salt I've put into the 30L tank is insufficient as the disease is still on its rampage. I'm holding further salt treatment back in fear of damaging the plants. But the way things are going, I can safely assume that I'm headed for a strictly plants-only tank by daybreak tomorrow.
    Warm regards,

    Lawrence Lee

    brothers, whatever is true, whatever is noble, whatever is right, whatever is pure, whatever is lovely, whatever is admirable--if anything is excellent or praiseworthy--think about such things.
    Philippians 4:8

  5. #25
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    warning to all.

    DO NOT USE GENESIS ANTI-CHOLRINE in tanks with SHRIMPS!

    my experience paid a dearly price killing a total of 15 cherrys, 3 crystals and 7 malayan.
    Founder of theWaterBox

  6. #26
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    Re:

    [quote:d977258427="prec"]warning to all.

    DO NOT USE GENESIS ANTI-CHOLRINE in tanks with SHRIMPS!

    my experience paid a dearly price killing a total of 15 cherrys, 3 crystals and 7 malayan.[/quote:d977258427]


    Hi prec,

    Can you qualify the statement?

    I've been using this exact brand of dechoraminator for years, and not once had my shrimps died because of its usage.

    IMHO, it is just so irresponsible to make such a comment without qualification to the statement. To some, it may just become a biblical truth!

    No offense please, as I'm just stating my objection to your statement made.

    Cheers,

    Kenny

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