Hello, I am trying to set up a low load freshwater tank. My ideal choice of filter is the Aquaclear. Anyone know if Singapore has it at any LFS now??? I did a search and seems like nobody carries it but the thread was like in 2012.
Any other recommendation? My next choice is the Marineman but I heard that one is a bit noisy... I really want a Aquaclear... TIA
You can check at places like C328 or Seaview... those are the LFS that i've seen Aquaclear hang-on filters in stock before.
An alternative is the Fluval hang-on filters, they have a similar design to the Aquaclear ones (both are made by the same company Hagen anyways). Supposedly the Fluval models are an updated version of the Aquaclear models.
Thank you for your information. Its good to know. After furthwer investigation, I think might settle on the fluval c series.Originally Posted by Urban Aquaria
Any one has any idea which c series is ideal for a 2,feet tank?
I would say C4.
Alright thank you! Is it advisable if I overkill the filter size for my tank
From my past experience (maybe someone more senior can advise), for filters, I always like overkill. This is the case of bigger is always better. Lets say you have a 20 gallon tank, you dont want to use a filter for a 20 gallon tank because then you are running your filter at capacity already. If your fish load gets a bit bigger, get fed a bit more, and decide to poop a bit more then the filter cant handle it. I like to go at least 2x the size of my tank, if not bigger... just my humble opinion.
That's what I'm doing right now..im just afraid my tank would be like "washing machine"
I dont think fluval c4 will be like a washing machine,if do just attach a rain bar.
Totally agreed with limz, you can adjust the output flow with canister filter easily.
The Fluval C4 at its listed flow rate of around 900 l/ph might indeed be abit too strong for a 2ft tank at full blast, but you can adjust the flow rate so it's possible to moderate the current to create less turbulence in the tank.
The only thing with using a high flow rate hang-on filter is you have limited ways to position the outflow, so the greater downwards flow/current might tend to dig craters into the substrate side that it's facing... therefore you may need to think of additional ways to buffer the current if it's still too strong even after flow adjustment (ie. put sponge under the outflow ramp or place hardscape strategically to block the current).
I agree with the rest about considering to use a canister filter instead for the 2ft tank (if possible), they contain alot more filter media capacity and you have a many more options to use different outflow pipe designs and angles to control the current flow.
Sorry for hijacking the thread. Setting up a 2ft planted tank after more than 10yrs hiatus :P.
Does ppl still use OHF nowadays? I like OHF based on the theory of more exposure of the filter materials to the air, or had anyone tried combining OHF with cannister? And are there any OHF pumps with adjustable flowrate? (i find most of them the flow is too strong).
I'm using HOF..cheap simple and reliable haha
Sticky and Nutty in a Plastic Packet
Welcome back.
I am sure over-head filters are still being used in some tanks. I actually do like the idea of using OHF. I wanted to do it initially with the concenpt of also doing hydroponics with it as well. I do not forsee a problem running it concurrently with a cannister but it does seem a little overkill for a 2 feet tank.
I am sorry but I have not come across any adjustable OHF pumps before but I think with a little modification you could maybe run an an adjustable powerhead instead.
If you concern is the flow here, I can suggest that position some hardscape to deflect the water flow to soften the current's impact. An idea that I had was to raise the water outlet a little higher, then scape a slanted rock piece above the water surface and under the OHF outlet. You can thenlet the water flow back into the tank via the slanted rock piece. This idea has not been thought through thoroughly yet so there might be other complications which are not pointed out yet.
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Occasionally, I would have some trimmings to give away in exchange for a can of Milk Coffee. PM me to deal.
Yeah, over head filters (OHF) are still being used by many people... usually those with tanks that focus more on fishes.
For people with high-tech planted tanks with Co2 injection, having less water agitation and less surface exposure to air is preferable in order to retain as much of the injected Co2 as possible (in this case, the high density of plants are what aid in filtration and oxygenation instead), hence OHF are not so popular amongst that group of aquarists.
In addition, OHF covers the top of tanks and blocks the top down view, so for those with planted tanks who like an open top minimalist look (ie. ADA gallery tank style), they would prefer filters that can be hidden below and inside a cabinet instead.
Yeah, over head filters (OHF) are still being used by many people... usually those with tanks that focus more on fishes.
For people with high-tech planted tanks with Co2 injection, having less water agitation and less surface exposure to air is preferable in order to retain as much of the injected Co2 as possible (in this case, the high density of plants are what aid in filtration and oxygenation instead), hence OHF are not so popular amongst that group of aquarists.
In addition, OHF covers the top of tanks and blocks the top down view, so for those with planted tanks who like an open top minimalist look (ie. ADA gallery tank style), they would prefer filters that can be hidden below and inside a cabinet instead.
Thanks for all the views/advices
IMG_20150103_194021.jpg
A big shout out thank you for Bros:
zerofighterx101
urban aquaria
activeblast
limz777
maru
muarchee
You guys have been fantastically helpful for contributing into my questions. Here is what I have so far, empty tank doing the cycling. I just set it up like for 2-3 days only. I am using API quick start, but I think Ill add in one zebra daino if I can find it in LFS in a day or 2. Just tested the water, everything at 0 but Ph a bit high at 7.4-7.6. Normal gravel substrate, no fancy ADA, as I am growing only java moss and fern.
So I guess here we go on this on going project. Thanks guys.
Sticky and Nutty in a Plastic Packet
Your tank looks great! Maybe start another thread in the Aquascaping section so that it is easier to keep track of your tank's development.
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My Exciting Fishy Life My Other Not So Exciting Fishy Life My Non-Fishy Life
Occasionally, I would have some trimmings to give away in exchange for a can of Milk Coffee. PM me to deal.
Frankly i didnt answer any of your question, or maybe becos i cant since i am a noob
Just some tips to help in your new setup...
For your setup using inert gravel substrate, you'll definitely need to add ammonia sources for the beneficial bacteria to consume and grow... without ammonia, the bacteria will just die off quickly and the tank wouldn't cycle at all, so no point just leaving it empty.
Putting in a small fish and feeding it to produce ammonia can help kickstart the cycle, but do note for this "fish-in" method, the beneficial bacteria will only grow enough to handle the ammonia source (if its only 1 fish, the beneficial bacteria will only grow to handle that 1 fish bio-load, they will not grow to handle more), so even if the test kits indicate that your tank is "cycled", it will only be cycled for just that 1 fish. Therefore, when you add more fishes, you'll still need to add them slowly in small quantities at intervals of a few days apart, so that it'll give the filter and beneficial bacteria time to continue growing further to handle the bio-load.
The disadvantage with higher pH alkaline water is that ammonia exists in its more toxic form, but the advantage is that beneficial bacteria tends to also grow much faster in alkaline conditions (compared to lower pH acidic water), so as long as you add in livestock very slowly, the cycle can usually "catch up" to the steadily increasing bio-loads quite easily.
Your filter being positioned on the extreme left of the tank may result in uneven circulation with regards to nutrient distribution and waste cleaning, the right side will develop dead spots, which may result in the plants there becoming less healthy with higher chances of algae issues (compared to the better circulated left side). Try to re-position the filter and see if you can improve the circulation and flow pattern around the tank to reduce dead spots.
As you are using gravel substrate, excess food and waste will tend to drop into the spaces between the gravel pieces and get trapped there, fishes can't access it so they will stay in there and rot, so overtime it can contribute to increasing toxic parameters and spikes in the cycle. You'll have to remember to do regular gravel vacuums to draw out all the excess waste from the substrate and keep it clean.
If you find that its becoming a hassle to constantly do gravel vacuuming during every tank maintenance, then you could consider switching to a thin layer of fine sand substrate instead (since your plants are all tied to objects anyways), excess food and waste will just sit on top of sand so its much easier for fishes to find and the filter flow to sweep it up respectively.
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