Conversion

**Ipit** · 11th Mar 2014, 15:09

Hi guys, after a successful setup on a small scale, i'm totally addicted to planted tanks now. So much till i'm considering to convert one of my Aro tank into a planted tank (without the aro). My question here will be, for the transition is kind of simple but i do have some questions that are less straight forward like:

1. Maintainence of a big planted tank - Fertilisers, CO2, Chillers
2. Operating Cost
3. Suitability of current hardwares

My tank that i wish to convert is a 522 tank with full euro bracing so i'm wondering if the centre bracing will be an issue ? Those veterans with big tanks do share with me your views and advice especially the operation side of things

You views are much appreciated.

**wongce** · 11th Mar 2014, 17:14

Frankly speaking planted tank is quite an expensive hobby...but of course its cheaper than your prized arowana lah...

You can start with simple sand with some aquasoil setup... pricing can found on online shops like freshnmarine or mizuworld.

For normal tanks like yours..the main change is the light setup. Common light for aro is not suitable for planted. Your tank is also too tall for some light to penetrate to reach low plants..so either you control the plants you are planting or get a better light ...hehe

Filter and stuff you can continue to use...list down your stuff so we can help us know your current setup you have.

Chiller and co2 is not a must but good to have.

You can check out my blog for info on LFS, scaping step by step.... my blog is below my signature...happy reading

**Sleepy_lancs** · 11th Mar 2014, 21:27

2ft is not deep. You can make use of your current light set if they are fl tubes (T5 or T

but you have to replace the tubes with 6000K to 8000k (best if you can stick to around 6500k to 6700K). Just have enough spread ( your tank might need between 4 to 6 tubes) depending on the plants you are going after. CO2 is highly recommended if you would like to a show like tank but it will mean water change will be required. Low light tank might be a good idea if you want it to be low maintenance, then you might even want to reduce your light to 2 to 3 tubes. The centre brace only affects some light penetration but not major. We tend to have too much light in SG.

**Ipit** · 11th Mar 2014, 22:31

My current equipments used in the aro tank is definitely not convertable hahaha. Lights using cheap LED and filtration is using OHF with BH.

So far i have alloted the fillowing budget:

ADA Amazonia Soil 4-5 bags $250
Lights: 4 tubes $300
Chiller: intending to get 2nd hand: 1/2hp $500 near impossible budget hahaha
Co2: $150

What do you guys think?
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**limz_777** · 12th Mar 2014, 00:54

no centre bracing for planted tank is just for ease of access and aesthetic purpose , if your current tank comes with it ,suggest you retain it

chiller is not a must , better to invest in a good filter canister

once your tank mature , you can always introduce your arowana into it

**Ipit** · 12th Mar 2014, 14:03

Ya actually how come some say need chiller some say no need.. if no need i can spend on better lightings

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**thebaldingaquarist** · 12th Mar 2014, 16:16

Originally Posted by Ipit

Ya actually how come some say need chiller some say no need.. if no need i can spend on better lightings

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Chiller or not, it depends on what kind of plants you want to keep. those high requirement plants require a cooler environment.. thats why need the chiller.

but high requirement or not, a good filter goes a long long way!

**Sleepy_lancs** · 12th Mar 2014, 19:06

Yeap. Invest on your filter is more important. Water and co2 circulation is the most problematic in planted tank. If you still want to keep arowana in the tank then chiller is not necessary since you are likely to use easy maintenance plants. Do get a good CO2 set as it will go a long way. Consider a splitter for CO2 output since your tank is relatively big. As for lights, I have a different view on it then most hobbist here. I will go for T5 cheaper brands (avoid aquazonic) as they are easily replaceable without much repercussions. T5 bulbs are cheap to replace. Spend time to review what plants you would like to be in your tank before getting equipment, whi knows you might event skip some expensive items that many buys here.

PS: Above are suggestions. Ignore them if it does not fit your plans.

**Ipit** · 12th Mar 2014, 21:51

I have always loved iwagumi set ups so i suppose i will be along that line. Given that HC and glosso is imminent but HC being more demanding so im still figuring out what i want. Sometimes it can be a case of itchy hands hahaha.

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**Sleepy_lancs** · 12th Mar 2014, 22:45

glosso is less demanding against HC in terms light and temperature.

**BFG** · 13th Mar 2014, 01:49

Originally Posted by Ipit

My current equipments used in the aro tank is definitely not convertable hahaha. Lights using cheap LED and filtration is using OHF with BH.

So far i have alloted the fillowing budget:

ADA Amazonia Soil 4-5 bags $250
Lights: 4 tubes $300
Chiller: intending to get 2nd hand: 1/2hp $500 near impossible budget hahaha
Co2: $150

What do you guys think?
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You plan to use base fertilizer?

**Ipit** · 13th Mar 2014, 06:47

I dont think so. Its not a heavily planted but im leaning more towards an Iwagumi scape. Unless it is advisable to add base ferts

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**Sleepy_lancs** · 13th Mar 2014, 13:22

If you are going towards Iwagumi theme then you can skip the nutrients rich substrates just use simple aquarium sand like lapis or equivalent. For those heavily planted areas (excludes moss, java ferns and anubias) you can use flourish tabs or root monsters (or place JBL Aquabasis under those planted area and top up with aquarium sand). Dose your liquid fertiliser lightly. In this case also consider having lower light source or just focus light near to planted area.