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noted ..Thanka
What are the type of lights you are using?
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noted ..Thanka
I have all the test kit at home what is the min result I should get .Originally Posted by Y3H
Fauna is a gift .. hehe .. so juat have to put them it
Light : Aqua Zonic T5 4 X 25w 12000k Super Sun (
Ideally it should be ammonia 0ppm, nitrite 0ppm and nitrate 0-20ppm... if you see all zero then maybe the cycle hasn't started yet.
Though i guess the shrimp soil you are using probably doesn't release much ammonia and nutrients so the levels may not spike as much.
I guess if you are given fishes and shrimps but don't have anywhere else to house them, then just do more frequent water changes to minimise toxic buildup of those parameters.
thanks I check the water quality tomorrowIdeally it should be ammonia 0ppm, nitrite 0ppm and nitrate 0-20ppm... if you see all zero then maybe the cycle hasn't started yet.
Though i guess the shrimp soil you are using probably doesn't release much ammonia and nutrients so the levels may not spike as much.
I guess if you are given fishes and shrimps but don't have anywhere else to house them, then just do more frequent water changes to minimise toxic buildup of those parameters.
just tested my water
ph -7.6
ammonia - 0.50
nitrite - 0
nitrate -0
will the ammonia harm the fishes yesterday I check is zero , can it be cause by the seachim I add this evening
Looks like your tank is at the beginning of its cycle and the beneficial bacteria has not established yet.
Abit odd that your pH is at 7.6... usually with shrimp soil the pH would be buffered below 7.0. Anyways, at pH above 7.0, a higher percentage of ammonia is in its toxic form so you should do daily water changes to hopefully reduce the harmful effects.
If you are referring to the Seachem Flourish fertilizer, it adds a range of nutrients but not ammonia. In the case of your tank, the ammonia levels detected would be from the build up of existing fish and shrimp waste.
If you are using seachem prime to dechlorinate, it will 'lock' the ammonia and nitrite to an inactive state until your bacteria process it.
Continue to monitor the ammonia levels. If it gets really high, carry out water changes to lower the levels.
And yes ammonia, nitrite and to a certain extent nitrate are all toxic to fishes and shrimps.
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Ants of the Aquatic World (Upcoming blog!)
My tank has just turned cloudy after a night of cycling. Is it normal??
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Should be a bacteria bloom. You can throw in some sponge filters and the water should clear up within a day.
Is bacteria bloom a good thing?? I already have the sponge filters when I started cycling.
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Bacterial bloom commonly happens during the tank cycling process, its due to the initial excess bacteria population growth in response to elevated ammonia levels. Once the bacteria population stabilizes, the cloudiness will disappear.
Phew! Glad that its common
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Hi Bro,
When using spray bar temp , when light is on about 29 and light off about 27.With lili pipe yesterday light off 30, light on about 32. tonight notice light off about 32 and light on no idea yet went out for dinner will check when back home . Any kind soul can tell me what when wrong worry my plant and fishes may not survive.
A spray bar creates alot more surface agitation and the water shooting out of the spray bar holes has alot of movement and contact with the air, its sort of like how those mist-effect fans work, which probably helps to keep the water cooler... i'm guessing with the lily pipe you have it submerged below the water surface and there is comparatively much less surface agitation? That might explain the higher water temperatures building up over the course of the day (its also been relatively hot these few days too).
High surface agitation tends to off-gas Co2 faster, so planted tank owners prefer less surface movement to retain the CO2 for their plants.... i guess this is a trade-off.
You could try either raising the lily pipe or lowering the water line so that the lily pipe starts churning the water to create an aerating effect, that will increase surface agitation (though the "cooling" effect probably still wouldn't be as much as the spray bar).
To help reduce overall temperatures, maybe consider using an aquarium fan and perhaps also switching from T5 light (high heat output) to LED lights (lower heat output).
High surface agitation tends to off-gas Co2 faster, so planted tank owners prefer less surface movement to retain the CO2 for their plants.... i guess this is a trade-off.
You could try either raising the lily pipe or lowering the water line so that the lily pipe starts churning the water to create an aerating effect, that will increase surface agitation (though the "cooling" effect probably still wouldn't be as much as the spray bar).
To help reduce overall temperatures, maybe consider using an aquarium fan and perhaps also switching from T5 light (high heat output) to LED lights (lower heat output).[/QUOTE]
Thanks. This is what is suspect too. If i lower the water level or increase the raise lily pipe which is already at the max height will create water flow sound and the plant below will be moving around. I have already 1 fan maybe will add another one to see whether can lower the temp changing to LED is more costly maybe will consider getting a chiller then. Thanks again for you input
Found out why the temp is so highthe thermometer is faulty. Between any Bro here keep group of Tetra about 50 cardinal tetra and 30 rummy nose tetra in 2 ft tank is this alot.
Bioload is high. Need a strong filter or you might want to reduce the populationFound out why the temp is so high
Wow... that's alot of fishes for a 2ft tank.
In my case, nowadays i usually only keep at most around 20+ small fishes in my 2ft tanks. Even with lots of plants, i've found that i still need be very careful not to overfeed them to avoid ammonia spikes and algae issues.
I guess with a much higher tank bio-load, there will naturally be alot more feeding and alot more waste... so you'll definitely need to have very good filtration, clean the filter more often, be more diligent in removing all uneaten food and loose plant leaves, and do more frequent water changes, hopefully that will help to reduce the chances of ammonia and nitrates accumulating too high. Also monitor the oxygen level in the tank (especially when the water temperature gets warmer), as a high bio-load requires alot more oxygen too.
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