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Hi Urban, thanks for the comments again. It's so kind of having you guys guiding me along the way building my knowledge. 👍👍👍👍👍😉
The bio-media in the new filter is in addition to the existing bio-media in the other filter which has been running for a while now, so it just allows for more surface areas for bacteria to grow... this might even help speed up the cycle and create a stronger bacteria population since there is increased filtration.Originally Posted by rc311
Those algae on the rocks tend to grow more on hardscape, eventually they'll turn into nice green fuzzy algae (hopefully, not the black type). They usually don't grow on faster growing plants... though they might grow on slow growing plants like anubias or ferns.
Manual remove is the best at this stage... though i find that once shrimps are added into the tank, the wispy algae on hairgrass are usually picked clean within a day.
Hi Urban, thanks for the comments again. It's so kind of having you guys guiding me along the way building my knowledge. 👍👍👍👍👍😉
Btw itchy finger again, went to adjust the outflow pipe, end up breaking it... 😫😫😫
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Guys, what would be the best way to attach the pipe to the flexible hose and able to keep the pipe upright straight?
To keep the pipe vertically straight, you can try further securing it using a 2nd suction cup with attached clip.
Some glass lily pipes come with 2 suction cup points, so those would be easier to keep in position.
That is what I did.. The pipe is upright but slightly slanted one side which caused by the flexible angle, so I tried to twist the flexible and the pipe so that the outflow pipe will be straight and upright, and there is where I broke instead. I am wondering would it be good to apply some lubricant like Vaseline when inserting the flexible to the pipe so that I can easily adjust the angle. But then, easily adjustable means loose too...😖
Yeah, that's one of the considerations with glass lily pipes... its better to adjust the angle of the hose attached to the pipe when the join is still wet during initial fitment (when you can still rotate the hose angle easily), then when it's dry the join will be fixed and secure.
Adding a bit more slack in the hoses and factoring in the natural bend of the hoses also helps in angle adjustment too, less stress on the glass pipes.
I usually diy one more suction cup and cable tie it to pipe or lily pipe to keep it straight. It pretty much a easy to understand concept.
Inspired by AmanoLimited by Yusof Ishak
Wah. Very nice setup
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Oh no... Algae seems to be growing at a faster pace now, the stone start to have hair algae.
Previously taken
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Yesterday
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Another small stone with algae.
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I have now readjusted the light to 4hour on-2hour off-4hour on. Co2 drop to 3bbps 1hour on/off before lighting.
Also, I am wondering does the timing take into consideration as my light is in the night 9pm - 1am, 3am - 7am? And daytime there might be little indirect light passing thru..
Too bad it's not cycle yet.
Last reading is still ammonia 4.0 nitrite 2.0 and nitrate has increase to 10ppm. PH remains as 6.6.
Your night to dawn time lighting period is interesting... any special reasons why the lights are on when everyone is sleeping?
I guess if the tank gets indirect light during the day, then it might add up to an extended lighting period with the night time light schedule. Maybe draw the curtains or shade the tank during the day to balance out the light periods.
Algae growing during the initial setup and cycling period is normal anyways, lots of excess ammonia and fluctuating parameters make it favourable for algae growth... though that being said, the green algae you've got on the rocks tend to thrive in the same conditions as your plans, so they will usually still be present even if your tank is balanced.
The bare surfaces of your rocks are directly under and closer to the lights, which is prime "real estate" in terms of light exposure and circulation (even better than where your plants are). Since nothing is grown there, the green algae naturally make theirselves at home on the rocks.
If you like the green algae, then just let it grow and carpet the rock surface (they will photosynthesize actively and pearl just like your plants), it will usually stay short and fuzzy, but if longer hair algae start growing on it, just manually remove the longer strands with a brush or tweezers.
If you prefer clean rocks and want to remove all of it totally, then just scrub them off with a toothbrush (a bit messy though as the bits will float everywhere), or spot treat with Excel/H2O2 (which will kill patches of it), or utilise shrimp + snails + SAE combo (they wouldn't remove 100% though, still need to combine with other methods) or use algaecide treatment (ie. AlgExit, which i've tested to work in significantly reducing and inhibiting such green algae over time).
This is indeed something interesting, it all due to my wife/daughter suggestion that she would like to have the light on so that when they wake up early in the morning, the tank (and future faunas) to there to welcome them, so my end time has to be around 7am.
Did a 30% water change and blackout the tank for a night, wake up at 3am and notice the tank is on complete darkness, something that it was not able to in the past so I guess the tank was indeed under too much lighting all the while. Thanks for the wake up call..
I have tried blocking the back of the tank with a piece of blue cloth during day but I think it does not help and because of your wake up call, I have come up with another idea, re-adjust the lighting schedule again it's now 5pm-8pm follow by 9pm-1am, lastly welcome light @ 6.30am-7.00am (no CO2).
Yap. I wish to have some algae on the rock but now hair algae is getting more, so I guess I have to remove them manually for the time being until the Amano shrimps is in for food. Spot on, I was able to mention the stone are bubbling a lot more these few days...
Last edited by rc311; 1st May 2014 at 10:46.
Oh ya, I buy their idea, cos the moment we step out of our room, the stunning bright aquarium is there for you... It really brighten your mood.. 😄
Day 16 update.
Nothing new, plants just grow slightly denser. Ammonia still read as 4.0 Nitrite read 2.0 and Nitrate read 10. Hope the number change soon... 😁😁😁
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Nice scape bro! And After seeing your stainless steel equipment, makes me feel like getting a set too! Unlike glass, where algae is obvious
Hi bro Mookie,
That's part of the reason I chose SS, but mainly I thought it could hold better than glass with any risk of breaking. On aesthetics wise, glass is still a winner.
Can see new hair algae growing everyday and green spot algae also start invading the sand... At the rate it's bloom, I am worry before I could start adding my algae troops, the algae might have conquered the tank.
Just wondering if my lighting is really too much as algae are blooming at a much faster pace now.
I am having 2 sets of 2x T5HO 39w and 1 set of 72w LED (actually I am still abit blur between LED and T5 - should we just calculate the watts output on both? I was also told LED 72w is higher than T5HO 39w x2, it's the lumens we should be looking at?).
Base on my 90P, I am estimating my water volume to be ~140 litres, so I should calculate my lighting output as ((39w x4) + (72w)) / 140l ? This will work out to be 1.62w per litre.
CO2 is at 4bps, light duration is now at 5pm-9pm following by 10pm-1am and 6.30am-7am (no CO2).
I know the plants are growing fast due to the strong lights. Since it is now growing well and almost complete it's carpet, maybe should I look at lowering down both the parameter now?
Ordered a CO2 indicator from eBay and received the item today, happily went home to fit up, but happiness don't last long.
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The indicator fail to clear the 10mm thickness as it suppose to be...
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I have put up a sale on the forum, if anyone of you is interested, pls refer to the BnS section.
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