3 tanks to connect to 1 chiller

[johnchor]

hi bros

i have a headache.

i have 3 small tanks(1.5ft) on a 3 tier rack. and i want to connect all to a single chiller.
each tank has a small 5watt filter/pump.

how do i connect all 3 of them to a single chiller? use T-joint?
and how do i distribute the chiller outflow back to 3 tanks?(ball valves)?

thanks

[Berny]

sharing water actually gives you a big risk. if one tank happen to havd disease (eg. ich) it will easily contaminate the other 2 tank

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[johnchor]

hi benny bro

ya i aggreed with you. but since chiller is expensive. i have no choice.
any ideas to connect all 3 tanks to a chilller?

[BFG]

The efficient way is for the 3 tank water to go into a single container ( sump ). From this container ( sump ), the water is pump into the chiller and then back to the 3 tank, individually controlled by gate valve. The 3 tank should have an overflow compartment to begin with.

However, since your tank is already set up, you may need to set up a closed loop system with your chiller, with the addition of stainless steel tube, just like how some of the shrimper in this forum are doing. But, the size of your tank might inhibit this method of cooling your tank water.

In your predicament, you need to rigged something to your custom requirement. You'll need a container to act as a sump while keeping the water cool, ie, a styrofoam box. You'll also need a pump, a 4 way hose connector ( unknown size ), 3 hose reducer thingy and a roll of air hose, get a good quality ones.

This is how it should be set up.

Styrofoam box---pump---chiller---4 way hose connector---hose reducer---air hose---back to styrofoam box.

The 4 way hose connector will split the water flow from the chiller into 3, each going into the hose reducer connected to the air hose. Each air hose should be submerged into each tank and the end of each hose should empty back into the box, not the tank.

I hope you get the idea. It might look a bit like a ghetto setup.

[Darick]

Just sharing a thought.

Top tank water flows down to middle tank (using overflow). Middle tank water flows down to bottom tank (using overflow). Bottom tank using a pump to Top tank. Chiller can be place for in Top, Middle or Bottom tank. This should provides water cooling for all 3 tanks.

Logically I think this might work but whether chiller place in which tank would have be better or will it be the same. That I'm not too sure. You might be able to test it out.

Less pump, less heat.

Top Tank ---> Middle Tank ---> Bottom Tank ---> Chiller ---> Top Tank. Maybe this is better.

Not only disease contamination you have to be concern. Water parameter changes affect all tanks. It is now consider as 1 big tank make up of 3 tanks.

Love to see your final setup when you are done. Hope you post some pictures.

[ksc133]

hi bros

what i am thinking is like this

tank1 pump1 ----->ball valve
tank2 pump2-4 way joint -------------------->chiller --------->4 way joint -----> ball valve ---> back to tanks
tank3 pump3 ------->ball valve

basically i am combining all the flow of 3 small pumps into one and input to the chiller.
for chiller output, i control using ball valve to ensure water evenly distributed back to the 3 tanks

i also notice the bottom tier tank needs more power pump like a 10w 1000/hr pump else it does not have enuff head to reach the chiller.
the top and mid tank needs only 2w 200//hr -6w 450/hr pump can do

you think can work?

i actaully was wondering if all these 3 pumps are worth anot? or rather get a small canister like 10-11w 800-1000L/hr more better choice to power all 3 tanks together.

[Darick]

Probably. What happens when 1 pump is stronger than the other. Even if you use the same size pump, they are at different height which will have water flows differences. Not sure if it is great differences. To me, 3 pipe into 1 pipe is like 3 car lane into 1 car lane where there will be traffic jam. Water flow got no control like traffic light to regulate so I can't work out if the water flow from 3 pipes into the 1 pipe going into the chiller will work well.

Seriously, I can't advise on the 3 pipes into 1 pipe how it will go. But I can tell you for sure that if I'm going to do this, I'll stick back to Top Tank ---> Middle Tank ---> Bottom Tank ---> Chiller ---> Top Tank. Slight modification. Each tank will probably have a filter. So the overflow from top to bottom will each go into the filter before water goes into the tank like this. Top Tank ---> Middle Tank Filter ---> Middle Tank ---> Bottom Tank Filter ---> Bottom Tank ---> Fillter before going to Chiller ---> Top Tank. Each outlet will go into a filter first. 3 tanks, 3 filters.

I probably confuse you further. If there is no water flow issue, then there is no problem that I see at this moment unless your chiller cannot handle the volume and starts kicking in every 5 minutes.

[BFG]

Ball valve are notoriously hard to control. You need to use gate valve.

[atolylica]

Or you could just install an aircon. Haha

[johnchor]

hi Darick

thanks for advice. so if i use your top middle bottom chiller method. can i use a small canister like a shiruba instead of 3 pumps?
because using 3 pumps total wattage is higher than using a canister. also the internal pumps filter media capacity sucks.
so actually all the dirt from top and middle tank goes to bottom tank and then get filtered by canister.
then clean water goes to chiller to prevent choking the chiller.

if i do this design i will be using 13mm PVC pipes. it there gate valves for PVC?

thanks

[johnchor]

btw bros

whats the cheapest canister brand? somthing like 600L/hr can do

thanks

[Darick]

hi Darick

thanks for advice. so if i use your top middle bottom chiller method. can i use a small canister like a shiruba instead of 3 pumps?
because using 3 pumps total wattage is higher than using a canister. also the internal pumps filter media capacity sucks.
so actually all the dirt from top and middle tank goes to bottom tank and then get filtered by canister.
then clean water goes to chiller to prevent choking the chiller.

if i do this design i will be using 13mm PVC pipes. it there gate valves for PVC?

thanks

Sorry I didn't reply earlier. Was out getting my china made chiller (TEM) from another forum buddy.

Anyway, Using canister is fine but I'm not sure how to filter from Top tank to middle tank since dirt fill flood your Middle tank from the Top. Just a thought. You probably already work that out.

Using 1 pump (through canister) is good in terms of heat. 3 pumps likely will generate more heat than 1 and this will lighten the load of your chiller.

The answer is yes, you can use 1 canister to replace 3 pumps. I'm not familiar with valves and piping size. I don't even know what's the size of my air tube if you ask me. lol. I'm just so silly at times.

[johnchor]

hi bro

you using TEM chiller. same i bought a 2nd hand dolphin TEM chiller MC-790 225watts at $40.
i removed the top casing and 3 small fans and replaced with 2 12cm fans from sim lim tower.
i tested it can cool down a 1.5ft tank in 4 hours to 24 degrees. i didn't test longer to find out the lowest temp it can go yet.
the problem is now i need to find a temp probe or a timer to auto turn off the chiller when it hits 22 degrees and turn on back when it rise to 25 degrees.
do you think a timer can do this? because a timer is cheap, less than $10 and more simple to setup than a temp probe.

i haven't hook up the 3 tanks yet because 2 tanks are now empty.
let me know your TEM chiller brand and model and also performance

cheers!

[johnchor]

hi bros

i am looking at this shiruba canister , 440L/hr 7watts only but expensive
http://www.eastoceansg.com/shiruba-x...lh-p-1246.html

this one duno what ALEAS brand canister - 800L/hr 20watts
http://www.petloverscentre.com/produ...13052014183823

[Darick]

Seriously. I thought I click reply but the post seems to have gone missing. Waste my time typing. Here goes again.

I've just gotten my TEM chiller. I've not tested but will test and post my finding in the thread Chiller FAQ as promised. This is the link for the chiller. http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...id=13480957886 Price wise will not be what is stated in their website. Reason is that they don't deliver to sg. I have to order from Hong Kong reseller. So, price markup will be normal. If you interested, I think it's GC do sell as well. Check thread Chiller FAQ. I contacted them last week but was told that there is no stock. New stock only arrive in 2 weeks time. So I order wherever I can find since I'm impatient. Hahaha... According to their specs, you can set a kick in and kick out temperature.

Not sure it is worth the trouble with the modification you are doing. Using a timer is not accurate. Room temperature changes. On a hot day, it takes longer to cool the water. So, using a timer will not provide you with the right temperature you want on a hot day. I'm not sure if there is such a product (or can one be made) to link a timer to a temperature probe.

As for canister, I don't have much experience. Pretty much just guessing that the higher flow would serves better to filter (proper filter material as well of course).

[johnchor]

hi bro

thanks for info on your TEM. how big is your tank u trying to cool down? i hope it is really a good TEM.
ya there is such a product timer/temp probe in china tabao also, cost SGD$16 but takes 2 weeks to ship here. maybe i will try it.
actaully i wanted to order a 1/10HP chiller from tabao but it is 16KG!!!.... so shipping will be very expensive.
the cheapest chiller in SG is the haelia 100A model 1//20HP about $380... so expensive

thats why when a bro here offer a dolphin MC-790 at $40 i quickly took it. the fans from simlim cost $30 for 2.
i think if the chiller can cool to 22 degrees after DIY, it should be worth the effort ba...lolz... testing now after 2 hours... it is down to 26degrees from 32degrees.

i also want to save some electric so i really need a timer/temp probe to kick out the chiller when it cools down to 22degrees.
also using a small canister like shiruba at 7watts saves some electric and less heat produced...but i will look for a cheap brand. shiruba is too expensive $75++
i am looking at Astro canister 550L/hr 5watts amazing!

cheers and enjoy our hobby.

[Darick]

The TEM chiller that I've gotten weights 1.6kg net I think. When chilling, it's 2kg due to water within.

At that time, it would seems cheaper and better to do what you did. Right now, I've bought this chiller with all the necessary functions (hopefully working. hahaha) and I don't need to mess only makes your option looks tougher and more troublesome.

Size wise is pretty small. Can even be place at the desktop if need be.

Anyway, until I test out this chiller, I can only provide some physical information which isn't really that useful. Will know more in a few days so look out for it in Chiller FAQ. I've to keep my promise. hehehehe.

[Darick]

Oh, forgot about this. I'm trying to cool a 2ft x 1 ft x 1 ft tank. It's higher than the stated specs of the chiller but that's my own funeral. Hahaha..

The more important is the test of what the stated specs of the chiller and review the chiller kick in and kick out interval under room temperature (without aircon of course).

[Darick]

Good to know that things are working within your expectation. I'm not sure if letting the water temperature shifting by 3 degree is good for fish/shrimps. Fish maybe can still take it but shrimps I'm not so sure. Maybe someone can advise on this.

Hope whoever is cooking in the kitchen doesn't mistaken and cooks anything from your tank. Hehehehe.....

[johnchor]

wahhahaaa..ya i remind my wife not to cook my fish and shrimps.
she should take from fridge not my tank...lolx