Reply With QuoteHmmm. Let me do a daily dose of excel and try. Currently I dose twice a week.
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Magikarp! I choose you! Karp Karp Karp
My tank is 390 × 210 × 230mm. I think adding Co2 and ferts helps too
Recent studies shows that putting recent studies in your statement have a higher percentage of trust people put into your recent studies. What?
Hmmm. Let me do a daily dose of excel and try. Currently I dose twice a week.
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You'll just need to use a universal plug adapter (can get them from most electronics or hardware shops).Originally Posted by gumball
Although fishes like neon tetra and bettas come from shaded/blackwater habitats where there is very little light (and consequently very little plants), but you are running a planted tank with them, so you also need a good amount of lights to feed the plants too, therefore its a trade-off you need to make.
Most users already consider the Pro Z LED relatively "low" light anyways, so the intensity is still not too much for the fishes (compared to the even brighter lights some people use) and they will be okay with it.
The 36cm Pro Z LED lightset's legs is adjustable so you could get it to fit a 40cm tank, though it might just be stretching the limit. Maybe can consider the 45cm version instead, as the legs can be positioned in a more stable manner and it will ensure more complete light coverage. If you find that the light intensity is too high for the setup, just shorten the photoperiod or raise the lights higher up above the tank accordingly.
OK I got a co2 tank from my friend to try see if it makes any difference. First time using co2, what should I look out for? Do you leave it on the whole day and night? Also I believe the dosage is measured in bubbles, how many bubbles per second should I do for my tank? (Don't want to suffocate my fishes)
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Co2 injection is only required to be on when the lights are on, that's when the plants use the Co2 during photosynthesis. When the lights are off, the Co2 injection should be off too, or else excess Co2 will just keep accumulating in the water column and may cause issues with livestock.
Most people use a solenoid regulator + timer to schedule the Co2 injection to start 1 hour before lights on (to buildup Co2 beforehand), and end 1 hour before lights off (so that the accumulated Co2 can be used up). You'll need to customize the actual on/off timings according to your own requirements though, as individual tank setups are different.
The injection rate is measured in bubble-per-second using the bubble counter attached to a needle valve... but that is only for your own reference (the ideal bps rate is different between tanks), it doesn't tell how much Co2 is actually in the tank.
The bps required depend on factors like tank volume, bubble counter design, timing schedule, diffusion efficiency, plant types and density, light intensity/nutrient availability etc.
You need to use a drop checker to gauge the actual level of Co2 in the tank, it is usually attached inside the tank (but there are some external models available too). The objective is to tune the Co2 injection rate and timing to achieve and maintain a green color in the indicator solution during the lights on photoperiod, which will mean the Co2 levels are at the ideal 30-35ppm range (blue color will mean too low, yellow will mean too high). Note that drop checkers usually have a 1-2 hour delay in the changing of their indicator color.
Btw, get the drop checkers packaged with pre-mixed indicator solutions, much easier to use.
Last edited by Urban Aquaria; 21st Jun 2014 at 13:34.
That sounds like a good idea to turn it on before lights are on and off before lights are off. What do people usually do if they don't have such a regulator? I will not be able to turn it on and off so regularly.
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Okay, if you don't have a solenoid regulator and can't turn it on and off regularly everyday, then one method is to leave it on 24/7 but running at a much lower bps rate.
You'll need to tune the bps so that it builds up very slowly during lights off, and when the lights are on there is still enough Co2 in the water to be effective. A drop checker will be essential for you to monitor the Co2 levels.
Some people use slightly higher injection rates, but set an airstone with timer to switch on during lights off period, this creates increased surface agitation which helps to offgas the excess Co2 being constantly injected. This technique can work too, but it tends to result in alot of Co2 wastage... its basically adding something in while removing it at the same time.
The main issue with such setups is it difficult to maintain a consistent optimal Co2 level and you have to constantly keep an eye on it in case the Co2 accumulates too much.
If possible its always better to use a solenoid regulator, it fully automates the entire Co2 system and makes everything much more efficient.
Last edited by Urban Aquaria; 21st Jun 2014 at 14:38.
Hi urban aquaria. I got the drop checker. Will set everything up and monitor and update again. uploadfromtaptalk1403352422367.jpg
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Okay, note that the ANS drop checker that you got doesn't come with pre-mixed indicator solution, it only has the reagent which you need to mix with 4dkh reference water, do not use your aquarium water to mix it (contrary to the instructions), as that will result in incorrect measurements.
Oh man. I thought that was it. Does the 24 hr shop at clementi have? How much does it usually costs?
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In that case, you can just buy the pre-mixed indicator solution and use that instead (its just a few dollars for a small bottle), look for the Ocean Free or ISTA brand ones, here is a discussion thread on them:
http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...cator-Solution
The 24hr LFS at clementi (Polyart) should have it in stock.
Okay! They didn't have the ocean free or ista one. So I got the up aqua one. uploadfromtaptalk1403433743362.jpg
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After looking at online sources doesn't look like this requires the reference water. Yay.
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OK I didn't see this behind while it was in the packaging. -,- uploadfromtaptalk1403439230730.jpg
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Co2 running now at 7bubbles/minute for starters. Still haven gotten my reference solution. Will update in 3 days.
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Hi Gumball, chance upon your thread and thought of sharing my own experience with Glosso and UP aqua Z-series LED.
I got a 60cm Z-series LED, and if I remember correctly, the output is 21W. Tried to create a Glosso carpet 2 months back. No CO2 set up.
The plants are growing fine for about 1 month, though not much creeping. By growing fine, I mean there are no browning of leaves. Some of the glosso also starts to grow vertically. Then for the past 3 weeks, the glosso starts to turn brown. During that 2 months period, I have been dosing ferts like Seachem Flourish, Excel, Phosporous and Iron (mainly for red plants, not Glosso) on a regular basis. Then I read that Glosso is a high light demanding plant for it to carpet well.
I finally give up and uproot all the Glosso yesterday. I have also swapped my Z-series LED for higher output T5 lighting. May re-do my Glosso carpet to see if the brighter lighting makes a difference.
whoa that's so strange. Some of the bros seem to be having good glosso growth with only 5 watt/10 watt LED lights! I wonder if glosso requires high CO2 as well. You can see Naraki apparently managed to grow and creep with CO2 but only a beamswork 5 watt light. Interesting, thanks for sharing guppies_79! much appreciated!
with co2 the plants are taking off!
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Oops forgot pictures. uploadfromtaptalk1405148402063.jpguploadfromtaptalk1405148434982.jpg
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any updates?... co2 makes a big difference
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