ISTA CO2 kit

[kermit13sg]

Thanks once again, will follow your guide. So the CO2 will follow the photo period right?


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[Urban Aquaria]

Thanks once again, will follow your guide. So the CO2 will follow the photo period right?

Ideally the Co2 should be at 30-35ppm when the lights are on. The common practice is to switch on the Co2 injection 1 hour before lights on (to build up the Co2 to required levels), and then switch it off 1 hour before lights off (so that there is time for the remaining Co2 to be used up, help reduce the excess Co2 build up during night time).

It's not a fixed schedule though, just a rough guide. You can tweak the timings and customize it to suit your particular tank setup, based on the plant uptake and drop checker measurements.

[kermit13sg]

Wow, it's getting very technical


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[kermit13sg]

But I think I'll stick to lights on CO2 on regime for now... Thanks


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[kermit13sg]

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1405947322.294187.jpg

Seems like there's algae growing. Should I reduce light and CO2 duration or reduce bubble per second?


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[Urban Aquaria]

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1405947322.294187.jpg

Seems like there's algae growing. Should I reduce light and CO2 duration or reduce bubble per second?

The appearance of algae is normal during the initial periods of new tank setups, its basically due to excess nutrients that the existing plants are not able to use yet and unstable parameters that encourage algae growth. At this stage in the tank cycling process, you'll need to manually remove the algae by cleaning and scraping them off the hardscape and glass.

More frequent and larger water changes will help to flush out the excess nutrients. Water changes will help keep nutrient levels moderate while the plants grow in.

You can reduce the light photoperiod or intensity to slow down the algae growth, but as mentioned previously, that will also slow down plant growth (which will mean the plants would take a longer time to grow into high enough density/mass and to start out-competing the algae)... so you'll need to consider that balance.

If you reduce light, you can reduce the Co2 duration accordingly to match the lights, but do keep the bps injection rate constant as it should still be kept at optimal levels when lights are on (use the drop checker to monitor it).

Plants growth will be limited by insufficient Co2, whereas algae isn't bothered with low Co2, they will still grow regardless.

Maybe you can consider timing the Co2 injection to switch on 30mins to 1 hour before the lights switch on, that will help to ensure the plants get sufficient Co2 to jump start photosynthesizing at maximum rate when the lights turn on, rather than have to wait for the Co2 to build up slowly while the lights are on and not being able to photosynthesize at full rate... which would benefit algae as they will end up growing faster instead.

[kermit13sg]

Hey thanks, I've been doing 50% every 3 days, should I increase the water change regime?


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[Urban Aquaria]

Hey thanks, I've been doing 50% every 3 days, should I increase the water change regime?

You can try increasing the water change frequency to every 2 days (or even daily), see if it helps.

In the meantime, keep cleaning and removing as much of the algae as possible too. As the tank stabilizes over time and the plants grow denser, the algae should also eventually start to appear less and less.

[kermit13sg]

Hmm.. Ok, daily it will be. Perhaps I've too little plants. I'll send you a full tank shot soon..


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[kermit13sg]

http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...d.php?t=113282

Link to pics

[kermit13sg]

Mod, can you delete this thread please


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[JamesYim]

Okay, if you mixed the indicator reagent with aquarium water, then the color readings will be inaccurate.

The drop checker changes color based on the pH and kH relationship in the water, but since your aquarium water pH and kH is already buffered by things in the tank like the active soil, wood or rocks, it throws off the readings. So if the tank water you use has lower pH and kH, the color in the drop checker may change to green even if there is not enough Co2 being injected.

You need to use 4dKH water (water calibrated with known pH of 7.0 and kH of 4.0) to mix with the indicator reagent, then the color readings will be correct.

Alternatively, you could also just get pre-mixed indicator solution and use that instead, much easier and less hassle.

Hello Urban

I just bought a Co2 checker because it came in a set (which includes reagent) and its instructions states to put in aquarium water. I'm a little confused.
Should I get the Oceanfree stand alone reagent for more accuracy instead?

I can't seem to upload a pic of the manual but anyway its a ANS permanent Co2 tester

[JamesYim]

sorry ignore that pic i was testing and deleted it no idea why it reappeared when i posted

[Urban Aquaria]

The instructions to use aquarium water is not applicable for most planted tank owners, it assumes that the water in the tank is unbuffered and at neutral pH 7.0 with 4dKH.. but for most of us, we use soil substrates which usually lower pH and kH so it becomes unsuitable for use with the drop checker.

You will need to use 4dKH water (aka reference solution) to mix with the reagent, then the results will be correct.

Check out this link guide for more in depth explanations on it:

http://www.littlegreencorner.com/tipsdropchecker.html

Getting the pre-mixed Co2 indicator solution would make things easier though, no need to mix and can just use directly.

[peanut88]

Anybody tried this new CO2 metering devoce ?

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects...-for-aquariums

Looks interesting !

[kermit13sg]

cool stuff, is it in Singapore yet?