Hi to all masters of planted tank! I am a total noob to this hobby 1 month ago, and since then, with fengshui master's advised I have decided to have a planted tank in my room! Well, I have always been enjoying staring at friends tank all along, just didn't spend the trouble setting up one.
Last Sunday, after my month long research and purchasing equipments, I finally set up my tank.
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My equipment list is:
Tank: 45x24x30 cm gush crystal garden
Light: Up aqua pro z 45cm
Filter: xb303
Inflow / out flow: VIV O pipe
Co2: pressurized co2 injected with up aqua single gauge regulator, cheapo bubble counter, up atomizer at 1 bubble every 4-5 second. Co2 drop indicator show yellow all the time, even without co2. My regulator have been inconsistent all the time.
Substrate: ADA power sand, ADA aquasoil powder type
Fertiliser / conditioner: seachem flourish, seachem prime
Daily dosing flourish 1ml
Parameter: ammonia at 2ppm
The rest not tested as I haven't get those test kit.
After a few days, the water got cleared up.
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But today I realized that my HC changed colour, can any of the gurus here tell me what happened?
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Correction: I am using ANS Easy CO2 meter bought from EO. (Don't know if it is the regulator or me, but I have tried a few times to adjust to 1/3 bps but it will slowly reduce its pace till a complete stop. a few times i check that my atomizer is not producing micro bubbles then I realize I am not injecting CO2.)
Also, I am using Bio Home Plus and Purigen Filter Media.
And photoperiod at 7 hours daily. Some time more when I have not done enough staring at my tank.. (I feel the poison!)
It looks like you mixed the Co2 reagent with aquarium water (which is usually due to the drop checker instructions), unfortunately that doesn't work for tanks using ADA aquasoil and will create incorrect readings as your tank water pH and kH has already been buffered by the active soil.Originally Posted by stewart86
You have to use 4dKh water to mix it (water with known pH of 7.0 and kH of 4.0), then the readings will be accurate. Otherwise, you can also buy the pre-mixed Co2 indicator solutions from LFS (ie. ISTA or Ocean Free brand), no need to mix and can use immediately to get the correct readings.
What is the working pressure of your Co2 regulator? The atomizer requires higher working pressure to operate properly (ie. >36 PSI) and if its too low, it may cause the gas to back up and slow down the bubble count, which may explain the low BPS and consequently low Co2 injection. It'll be best to sort out your Co2 setup so that it works properly and consistently.... inconsistent Co2 can quickly result in issues like encouraging certain types of algae and poor overall plant growth.
Also consider getting a solenoid regulator for the Co2 system, it will automate the on/off timing to match the photoperiod and help to regulate the optimal Co2 levels in the tank.
If you have only recently planted the HC, it would currently be undergoing a transition from emersed to submersed growth, so some melting of the older or weaker leaves is expected. Just remove the rotting leaves to reduce excess organic matter polluting the water. The newer healthy submerged leaves should grow out soon.
Last edited by Urban Aquaria; 10th Jul 2014 at 14:35.
Hi UA, I have been reading a lot of your post in this forum. You are like a god to me. HAHAHA! You have always been giving very sound advise to newbie like me.
I am actually using Ocean Free pre-mixed solution. Maybe because I turn on my CO2 24 hours a day, that is why my CO2 is always at a higher end? As I thought Higher Co2 is better for the plant anyway.You have to use 4dKh water to mix it (water with known pH of 7.0 and kH of 4.0), then the readings will be accurate. Otherwise, you can also buy the pre-mixed Co2 indicator solutions from LFS (ie. ISTA or Ocean Free brand), no need to mix and can use immediately.
I am not sure about the working pressure of my regulator, But since you mentioned that the atomizer required higher working pressure, maybe I should change to a normal cup diffuser and see how it goes.What is the working pressure of your Co2 regulator? The atomizer requires higher working pressure to operate properly (ie. >36 PSI) and if its too low, it may cause the gas to back up and slow down the bubble count, which may explain why your low BPS and consequently low Co2 injection. It'll be best to sort out your Co2 setup so that it works properly and consistently.... inconsistent Co2 can cause issues like algae and poor plant growth.
I have decided to get a solenoid regulator maybe next month, as I have spent quite a bit in setting up the tank. I reckon since my tank is still cycling, I am not going to get any fauna in, thus, higher co2 would kill anything anyway. (except for those 6 head and tail Tetras which my 4 years old niece pester us to let her catch fish.)I was thinking that they should die soon, but these worriors still survived after 4 days!
I have only planted it for 4 days. I also bought additional HC from Tropica 1-2-Grow at C328 but I didn't realise it already turn slightly yellow, as you can see from my second HC photo, the small patch at the lower left corner.If you have only recently planted the HC, it would currently be undergoing a transition from emersed to submersed growth, so some melting of the older or weaker leaves is expected. Just remove the rotting leaves to reduce excess organic matter polluting the water. The newer healthy submerged leaves should grow out soon.
What is your tank temperature? HC grow better in cooler water
My tank temperature range from 25-29 degree c, never higher than 30 degree c. Should be fine right?
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I see, then its okay.
Yeah, its the Co2 build up throughout the day that allowed it to accumulate to higher levels. No issues with higher Co2 for the plants, just that you'll need to adjust it lower to safer levels when you introduce more sensitive livestock later.
I guess some fishes are hardy enough they they can withstand toxic parameters and even high Co2 levels... just that even if they can survive it, their long term health may be affected, so most aquarists prefer to cycle their tank fully before introducing livestock. I guess it just depends on the priorities in individual tanks setups.I am not sure about the working pressure of my regulator, But since you mentioned that the atomizer required higher working pressure, maybe I should change to a normal cup diffuser and see how it goes.
I have decided to get a solenoid regulator maybe next month, as I have spent quite a bit in setting up the tank. I reckon since my tank is still cycling, I am not going to get any fauna in, thus, higher co2 would kill anything anyway. (except for those 6 head and tail Tetras which my 4 years old niece pester us to let her catch fish.)
I know what you mean... the Tropica 1-2-Grow plant pots do tend to wilt and deteriorate the longer they sit on the shelves, so its always best to check and only buy the newly stocked ones with fresh healthy plant specimens. For your current melting batch, just have to remove the rotting ones and allow the new healthy leaves to grow back again.
Got it sir! Thank you so much for your advise. Just feel a little heart pain for not checking the plants before making my purchase.. Even more so for branded plants! I hope they can survive in this condition.
I did some trimming yesterday for those melted leaves. All I can say is, not an easy task! their leaves are so tiny, it does require a steady hand and good amount of patience. Else, I will just shave everything away...
I went home today and found out that my atomizer is not producing bubble, I tried increase the co2 flow and suddenly, the connection at my bubble counter pop out, giving me a shock of my life... After calming down, I realized just as what AU said, my atomizer back flowed and jammed the whole system. Shortly, I got a cup diffuser and it's working normal now.. Phew~
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