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300 and counting, it won't stop there
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The poison work slowlyOriginally Posted by kurty
300 and counting, it won't stop there
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$300 Going once! going twice!! and going up! and up! aaaaand up!!!300 and counting, it won't stop there
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The poison work slowly300 and counting, it won't stop there
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkyou guys seem to be very encouraging in terms of spending..$300 Going once! going twice!! and going up! and up! aaaaand up!!!
not good la..
actually nothing much to buy,
co2?
chiller? my room temperature is low at around 27 degree due to the reflective solar film.
surface skimmer? water, weekly 20%, so clean to me..
what's there to buy?
my second tank only cost me $100 for the whole set up..
first tank was a gift, so foc.. i only spent $100 on the fishes, deco, plants.
still healthy
That what I though initially, few years later upgrading to bigger tank and soon afterward without you realize it, you start collecting ADA medical grade aquascaping tools
ermm, whats so special about ADA aquascaping tools?That what I though initially, few years later upgrading to bigger tank and soon afterward without you realize it, you start collecting ADA medical grade aquascaping tools
i saw it in ebay, that i may need some stainless steel scissors.. those curvy type.
i bought 1 tweezer from our local hardwareshop, proclaimed to be stainless steel but it rusted..
Wow, thats actually a good amount of space! Haha... when you mentioned not enough space, i thought your whole place was packed full of stuff all the way to the ceiling.
There is indeed alot of potential for efficient tank placement in your space, confirm can easily put a 2ft tank and cabinet on the right side to replace the 2 smaller tanks. The left side also should be able to put another 2ft tank with cabinet too.
If you really want to go nuts with "multiple tank syndrome", then instead of cabinets, go for 2 x 2 tier (or even 3 tier) metal racks so you can stack 4-6 x 2ft tanks vertically (while still taking up the same floor space), though your room will start to look more and more like a LFS.
Anyways, a typical 2L or 3L Co2 tank system only requires 12+cm diameter of space to sit on, so it can be placed anywhere (takes up as much space as a large jug of water). If no cabinet, it can just be placed on the floor next to the tanks too (unless you have curious pets or small kids with itchy fingers running around).
Last edited by Urban Aquaria; 11th Sep 2014 at 18:49.
not all stainless steel are made the same, the come with different grades. Lower grade will still rust. Older ADA tools is made from tungsten carbide but they don't produce it anymore.
First, It's my living room..Wow, thats actually a good amount of space! Haha... when you mentioned not enough space, i thought your whole place was packed full of stuff all the way to the ceiling.
There is indeed alot of potential for efficient tank placement in your space, confirm can easily put a 2ft tank and cabinet on the right side to replace the 2 smaller tanks. The left side also should be able to put another 2ft tank with cabinet too.
If you really want to go nuts with "multiple tank syndrome", then instead of cabinets, go for 2 x 2 tier (or even 3 tier) metal racks so you can stack 4-6 x 2ft tanks vertically (while still taking up the same floor space), though your room will start to look more and more like a LFS.
Anyways, a typical 2L or 3L Co2 tank system only requires 12+cm diameter of space to sit on, so it can be placed anywhere (takes up as much space as a large jug of water). If no cabinet, it can just be placed on the floor next to the tanks too (unless you have curious pets or small kids with itchy fingers running around).
Second, I'm a Buddhist Hence got an altar if you watch closely. Don't wish to block his sights.
Third, I do find smaller tanks much cuter, challenging as It's working with space.
Can't really play much as we intend to upsize the Tv when price goes down.
Racks with layer of tanks, totally impossible.. She will kill me..
Yeah, Maybe I will collect the tank back.. is it possible to have a co2 supplying to 2 unit of tanks?
What would I do for the co2 setup for one of the tanks,
Existing one tank already got the co2 stuff
Yes, you need to buy a splitter,there's splitter that split into 2,3,4 and so on..
here is the 2 way splitter,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aquarium-2...item3f2a85bd0a
Is refill of co2 a lengthy process and expensive?
My experience is I got to left the tank for a week with the lfs, as for cost, It's free as my friend is running it. Don't want to keep troubling him..
Wanna ask:
Should I buy co2 tablets, like 100 tabs as a source of co2.
For seachem excel, since Mine is pretty new tank, What dosage should I go for?
As for now, using one cup of the excel bottle, once per week.
Is that consider underdose?
Forget to ask, should I consider Seachem purigen?
Does it work for planted tanks like Mine?
It depends on the LFS, quite a number of them can do 1-to-1 exchange for Co2 tanks (they keep a few refilled tanks on hand)... so you don't have to wait at all, just drop off your empty one, pay the fee, and collect a full one.
You could also refill it at places like Bioplast (at Blk 22 Boon Keng Rd), they can do the refill on-the-spot, so you only need to wait for a short while (can also admire their amazing collection of mosses while waiting).
Another alternative for on-the-spot refills are at the various industrial gas companies, you can check out this recent thread for some reference: http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...for-Eastsiders
Co2 tablets can be a source of carbon supply, but they are generally not considered a consistent method of providing Co2 to plants... you have to remember adding them everyday and always at the same timing, and the Co2 concentration may vary based on when you add them and how well the tablets dissolve. Inconsistent Co2 levels are also another form of unbalance in a planted tank, and quite often it can encourage certain algae issues to appear over time (ie. BBA).
The most reliable form of carbon supply is still Co2 injection with a solenoid regulator, thats currently the best way to ensure consistent and controllable Co2 supply for the plants.
For Seachem Excel, just follow the dosage instructions on the bottle based on your tank volumes... it is relatively safe at recommended dosage levels, but its quite a strong chemical and can be harmful at higher dosages. Some fishes and shrimps (and plants) may be more sensitive to it too. If you notice the livestock starting to gasp for air at the water surface or exhibiting odd behaviors/symptoms, or certain plants are melting, then reduce the dosage.
Seachem Purigen can be beneficial in a planted tank, it specializes in absorbing excess dissolved organic compounds (ie. waste matter from both livestock and plants) before they get a chance to be converted to ammonia, so it helps to reduce the excessive build-up of toxic levels derived from livestock (which are the additional variables in tanks) and allows the tank to keep its cycle stable for a longer period of time between filter maintenance. The good thing about Purigen is it has minimal effect on fertilizers (as they are not organic compounds), so it will not affect the dosed fertilizers meant for plant growth.
But do note that if your tank does not receive sufficient fertilizers but instead relies solely on the natural break-down of organic fish food and waste to generate ammonia and nitrates to sustain plant growth (ie. walstad natural planted tank concept), then Purigen may restrict that process and create plant nutrient deficiencies in such tank setups.
Forget about CO2 tab, in my opinion just waste money. If you want to add CO2 but not willing to get pressurize tank, go for seachem excel or if you are ok with messy and smelly go for DIY yeast.
The instruction on how to use excel is on the bottle. Don't dose it close to moss, because it will kill it as well
noted, thanks for enlightening me.It depends on the LFS, quite a number of them can do 1-to-1 exchange for Co2 tanks (they keep a few refilled tanks on hand)... so you don't have to wait at all, just drop off your empty one, pay the fee, and collect a full one.
You could also refill it at places like Bioplast (at Blk 22 Boon Keng Rd), they can do the refill on-the-spot, so you only need to wait for a short while (can also admire their amazing collection of mosses while waiting).
Another alternative for on-the-spot refills are at the various industrial gas companies, you can check out this recent thread for some reference: http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...for-Eastsiders
Co2 tablets can be a source of carbon supply, but they are generally not considered a consistent method of providing Co2 to plants... you have to remember adding them everyday and always at the same timing, and the Co2 concentration may vary based on when you add them and how well the tablets dissolve. Inconsistent Co2 levels are also another form of unbalance in a planted tank, and quite often it can encourage certain algae issues to appear over time (ie. BBA).
The most reliable form of carbon supply is still Co2 injection with a solenoid regulator, thats currently the best way to ensure consistent and controllable Co2 supply for the plants.
For Seachem Excel, just follow the dosage instructions on the bottle based on your tank volumes... it is relatively safe at recommended dosage levels, but its quite a strong chemical and can be harmful at higher dosages. Some fishes and shrimps (and plants) may be more sensitive to it too. If you notice the livestock starting to gasp for air at the water surface or exhibiting odd behaviors/symptoms, or certain plants are melting, then reduce the dosage.
Seachem Purigen can be beneficial in a planted tank, it specializes in absorbing excess dissolved organic compounds (ie. waste matter from both livestock and plants) before they get a chance to be converted to ammonia, so it helps to reduce the excessive build-up of toxic levels derived from livestock (which are the additional variables in tanks) and allows the tank to keep its cycle stable for a longer period of time between filter maintenance. The good thing about Purigen is it has minimal effect on fertilizers (as they are not organic compounds), so it will not affect the dosed fertilizers meant for plant growth.
But do note that if your tank does not receive sufficient fertilizers but instead relies solely on the natural break-down of organic fish food and waste to generate ammonia and nitrates to sustain plant growth (ie. walstad natural planted tank concept), then Purigen may restrict that process and create plant nutrient deficiencies in such tank setups.
shall not waste money on co2 tablets then..
as for seachem excel, thats the problem.. i don't know how much should i dose..Forget about CO2 tab, in my opinion just waste money. If you want to add CO2 but not willing to get pressurize tank, go for seachem excel or if you are ok with messy and smelly go for DIY yeast.
The instruction on how to use excel is on the bottle. Don't dose it close to moss, because it will kill it as well
my tank is 40cm while another 50cm.. is 1 cup of the original excel bottle per tank doable?
how frequent should i dose it? i read that 1 dose could last 24 hrs hence i'm thinking of every alternate days.
as for seachem purigen, i think it would be more beneficial in my shrimp/snail tank.
going to seaview tomorrow to see what is the damage like..
yeah, going to spend money again..
What is the dimension of your tank?
The bottle instructions say
1) after large water change, >40%, dose 5 ml for every 40 liters
2) 5 ml for every 200 liters thereafter
Dose daily or every other day
40cm x 30 x 30
50 x 30 x 30.
should be around there..
yup..forget about the tab. It is either Co2 tank or excel.
In a long run co2 tank will save you more dollars than excel.
It is the initial start up that is costly after that i all depend on you....
I told you you jinx it..
40cm x 30 x 30 = 36 liter
50 x 30 x 30 = 45 liter
Not much different, just dose 5ml after large water change and add 1 ml daily
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