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It's most likely due to over-saturation of CO2. You can try switching the solenoid on half an hour before light comes on, or you could lower your bps. What's your tank size, method of CO2 diffusion, & bps now?
My co2 timer is set an hour before light comes on, during light period my drop checker is green (between dark and light), hc are pearling but all my fishes except for the Orange oto are gasping for air.
Any idea what's happening? Drop checker is using the OF premixed solution.
It's most likely due to over-saturation of CO2. You can try switching the solenoid on half an hour before light comes on, or you could lower your bps. What's your tank size, method of CO2 diffusion, & bps now?
My tank is 60x30x36, is about 1 or slightly more bps, using a co2 reactor (can't remmeber the brand) plastic type with rotating propellers inside. Drop checker is more towards the dark green side, I thought it should be insufficient co2
Generally, I don't trust the drop checker. If fishes are gasping for air when CO2 is turned on, then it's definitely a lack of O2. Try moving the drop checker around, I have a feeling your CO2 is almost over the safe limit for your livestock.
Yeah, a drop checker is only an estimate, and there is still a 1-2 hour delay in its color change too... inline reactors are super efficient at dissolving Co2 so their build-up effects can be very fast. Your fishes would be the over-riding guide to Co2 and oxygen levels in the tank, so gasping at the surface means either too much Co2 or too low oxygen.
What i guess is the Co2 concentration in your tank is building up so fast from the reactor that it overshot the safe levels before the lights turn on, since the plants have not started photosynthesizing yet, there is insufficient oxygen to balance it out.
In this case, either reduce the BPS injection rate or start the injection closer to the lights start time, maybe only 15-30 minutes beforehand or even just at the same time as the lights on (Co2 off should still be an hour before lights off to use up the remaining Co2 in the water).
For me, i use the ISTA brand inline reactor and over time i gradually fine-tuned my system to just 0.5 BPS and the injection only start at the same time as the lights, this combo ended up being the most optimal for my setup, plants start pearling shortly after lights on and the fishes and shrimps all okay.
The side benefit with lower BPS injection rate is now my CO2 tank can last 2x-3x times longer.
Last edited by Urban Aquaria; 11th Oct 2014 at 21:51.
I think so too, just did a partial water change and turned off the co2 for today. Will lower the bps and monitor the situation. One of the kubotai may not make it for the night... Struggling at the bottom of the tank, barely swimming
A partial water change also has its own hazards. Should you replace more than 50%, & you fill up the tank too fast, you change the chemistry of the water again. This will only lead the weak livestock to pass on. I suggest that you add a pump for aeration as soon as possible to save your kubotai.
I did about 30% change and lifted the output pipe just about the water surface to increase aeration. Hopefully all will be well.
For me, I have an air pump that comes on 5 minutes before lights go off at night. I opted for this method instead of lifting the lily pipe for convenience since its a daily task.
There won't be any photosynthesis happening when lights are out, so might as well minimize CO2. Fishes seem happier this way.
I used to do that, but didn't really like the tiny water droplets that splashed around the tank and lighting so stopped for the new scape, how do you prevent such issue?Originally Posted by Suzerolt
Think the splashing can't be prevented. Things I've done so far to minimize it :
- Tune down the amount of air
- Use a finer air stone (wooden one)
- Turn the pump on for only 15min to drive out the CO2 after lighting period, instead of the entire night. (best option)
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