need help with lights

[Urban Aquaria]

I've reduced the sump flow tremendously(almost off) and started my CO2 injection 2 hours earlier to reach the light green CO2 indicator and plants starting pearling. But the amount of CO2 injection is still around 10bps. Any advise?

One important factor I forgot to mention is that I find 2 x T5HO(39 x 4) is not enough to reach my HC hence I add an IP4 to it.

Yes, I'm using the Ocean Free CO2 indicator and pre-mixed indicator solution.

Okay, thats good... since you have achieved getting the light green color on the drop checker during active photoperiod and can get the plants pearling (which is the best indication), it means your Co2 injection is now at the suitable stage for fine tuning.

The next step is to increase the sump flow slowly and try reducing the bps to 9, then 8, then 7 etc, monitor if the Co2 levels still remain optimal. Once you find the maximum sump flow and minimum bps required to maintain the optimal Co2 levels, then those would be the best settings for your tank setup.

At the end of the day, your tank volume is large and its running a sump filtration system, so it will naturally require more Co2 to be injected to compensate (definitely more compared to a similar tank with canister filter system), hence its just a matter of optimizing the Co2 injection configuration based on your current equipment setup.

[Kevino]

Thanks for all the help. Shall adjust and monitor the flow and bps closely. Thanks again.

[mercur1al]

Btw... this is the version i use, its also from ISTA and works the same way as the Mix Max models, but uses the design of the Sera 500 model:



The advantage of this version is it comes with lock nuts to secure the hoses.

This reactor model is rated for 360-1,000 l/ph canister filters. This design doesn't have a larger version for higher flow-rate filters though, for those have to go for the L-size Mix Max model.

I run this Co2 reactor with a 750 l/ph Eheim Ecco Pro 300 canister filter at 0.5-1.0 BPS injection rate for a 2ft/64 liter planted tank, the Co2 drop checker is constantly at light green during active photoperiod, and plants pearling within 15 minutes of lights on.

How did you mount the suction cups bro? Any secrets?

I have been trying to mount them, they basically get detached from the cabinet wall in 5 mins max.

Tried all sorts of ways from washing the suction cups, using rubbing alcohol to clean the cabinet wall... About to tear my hair out.


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[Urban Aquaria]

How did you mount the suction cups bro? Any secrets?

I have been trying to mount them, they basically get detached from the cabinet wall in 5 mins max.

Tried all sorts of ways from washing the suction cups, using rubbing alcohol to clean the cabinet wall... About to tear my hair out.

I guess it depends on how the reactor is positioned... in my case, the in/out hoses are all measured and cut to exact lengths so that even if the reactor is unattached, it will still hang at the same position on its own, so the unit has no issues staying attached to the cabinet side wall using the suction cups (the hoses are not trying to push or pull it away from the wall).

Maybe you can try adjusting your hose positions and lengths so that there are less forces exerting on shifting the reactor unit away from its position, then it'll stay attached more securely.

The other alternative is to just use those 3M command hooks or drill a mounting screw into the cabinet wall to hook up the reactor.

[AQMS]

The mount have screw holes which you can use screws. I screwed mine but after less than a month i don't use it any more,
the propeller in the chamber keep getting stuck because of accumulated dirt and it get on my nerve to clean it every time.

[mercur1al]

I guess it depends on how the reactor is positioned... in my case, the in/out hoses are all measured and cut to exact lengths so that even if the reactor is unattached, it will still hang at the same position on its own, so the unit has no issues staying attached to the cabinet side wall using the suction cups (the hoses are not trying to push or pull it away from the wall).

Maybe you can try adjusting your hose positions and lengths so that there are less forces exerting on shifting the reactor unit away from its position, then it'll stay attached more securely.

The other alternative is to just use those 3M command hooks or drill a mounting screw into the cabinet wall to hook up the reactor.

Let me try to adjust my hoses first. Seriously getting on my nerves... Or I'll go grab the command hooks.

Really can't bear to drill into the cabinet...


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[mercur1al]

The mount have screw holes which you can use screws. I screwed mine but after less than a month i don't use it any more,
the propeller in the chamber keep getting stuck because of accumulated dirt and it get on my nerve to clean it every time.

Am currently using the up inline ceramic atomizer. But thinking of ditching it cause I'll end up needing to use peroxide to clean it, hence thought of going to a reactor.


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[Urban Aquaria]

The mount have screw holes which you can use screws. I screwed mine but after less than a month i don't use it any more,
the propeller in the chamber keep getting stuck because of accumulated dirt and it get on my nerve to clean it every time.

It shouldn't be stuck due to accumulated dirt... my units have been running smoothly for more than a year without ever needing to clean the rotors.

If the rotors accumulate that much dirt that it gets stuck each time, maybe have to check your filter efficiency, water coming out of the filter should be clean and free of even the finest particles, so there shouldn't be accumulation of that much dirt in the outflow path.

My guess is your unit probably has rotors that had some excess plastic molding material which already created extra friction from the beginning (some units encounter it), so you may have to take out the rotors and trim away any excess plastic to allow for ample spacing to enable smooth spinning.

[mercur1al]

Looks like I have to get the command hooks.

Just tried mounting the bracket alone with the suction cups. Even with a non existent weight and no tension from hoses, bracket also dropped.


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[Urban Aquaria]

Looks like I have to get the command hooks.

Just tried mounting the bracket alone with the suction cups. Even with a non existent weight and no tension from hoses, bracket also dropped.

Yeah, suction cups are designed to stick to glass (like the side of a tank) or tile surfaces, not matt laminate surfaces that are in cabinets... if you still want to use the suction cups, there are those glossy stickers you can buy from neighborhood hardware shops which simulate the glass/tile surfaces in kitchens, so suction cups can stick to it.

Anyways, command hooks are probably the best option since they can stick to the laminate surfaces and can be easily removed anytime too.

Most of the weight of the reactor will actually be held up by the outflow hose extending vertically to the lily pipe, so make sure you cut the hose the the exact length so that even without being attached to anything, the reactor will still hang in the same position on its own, then the load will be spread out evenly amongst all the attachment points.

[Dscheng]

I using 3M heavy duty double sided tape.

[mercur1al]

I using 3M heavy duty double sided tape.

Thank you for your input bro! Tried to get it set up with 3M Command hook, works but not too happy with it.

[mercur1al]

Yeah, suction cups are designed to stick to glass (like the side of a tank) or tile surfaces, not matt laminate surfaces that are in cabinets... if you still want to use the suction cups, there are those glossy stickers you can buy from neighborhood hardware shops which simulate the glass/tile surfaces in kitchens, so suction cups can stick to it.

Anyways, command hooks are probably the best option since they can stick to the laminate surfaces and can be easily removed anytime too.

Most of the weight of the reactor will actually be held up by the outflow hose extending vertically to the lily pipe, so make sure you cut the hose the the exact length so that even without being attached to anything, the reactor will still hang in the same position on its own, then the load will be spread out evenly amongst all the attachment points.

Grabbed the command hooks yesterday. Think they were the 1.3kg per hook version, unfortunately though it works, the size of the hook means i can only mount 1 hook. Hence the reactor is slanted actually, so i went around to look for the glossy stickers. Haven't found them yet, will keep looking.

However, managed to find the pneumatic quick release, gonna start using them once i flood my tank. Thanks for the tip UA!

[Urban Aquaria]

Grabbed the command hooks yesterday. Think they were the 1.3kg per hook version, unfortunately though it works, the size of the hook means i can only mount 1 hook. Hence the reactor is slanted actually, so i went around to look for the glossy stickers. Haven't found them yet, will keep looking.

However, managed to find the pneumatic quick release, gonna start using them once i flood my tank. Thanks for the tip UA!

The 1.3kg command hooks are quite large... maybe try the smaller 225 gram hooks, they have little wire hooks meant for holding small utensils, look like this:


Source: http://www.command.com.sg/wps/portal...4737333&rt=rud

Those are much smaller in size and may be able to fit better.

[Urban Aquaria]

Another option is to just use the 3M adhesive strip and stick it directly to the reactor's plastic holder mount (remove the suction cups beforehand), then attach it to the cabinet wall. That'll work too, no need to use the hooks. You can still detach it anytime.

[mercur1al]

Another option is to just use the 3M adhesive strip and stick it directly to the reactor's plastic holder mount (remove the suction cups beforehand), then attach it to the cabinet wall. That'll work too, no need to use the hooks. You can still detach it anytime.

Yup, thats what i eventually did this morning after re-reading Dscheng's idea. Props to Dscheng and UA for your help!