Dense overlapping vegetation, is fertilization the key?

[thwwx]

I hope to seek the experience of those who have successfully maintained a tank with extreme dense vegetation, like those dutch aquariums. Did u guys managed to keep those parts of the plants that have been densely shaded healthy? If yes, how?

Regardless of how powerful the lights are, there are bound to be inpenetrable areas in a densely planted tank. I found my beautiful MM turning yellow at the base as they grew thicker above. During those days when I dose Dr Mallicks' like crazy, I notice that they were real healthy all the way down, although it wasn't quite as thick then. After a couple of cherries serially keeled over, I cut back on the chemical madness from the prescribed dose to a trickle. While the plants grew just as fast and lush where it gets the light, the shaded areas start to yellow and lose their leaves gradually. What's your opinion on this?

[PeterGwee]

Its plain work if you want to maintain the health of the plants. Uproot the stem plants, cut off the bottom and replant the tops whenever you do maintenance. Do not let the bottom get overshadowed frequently...thats about all you can do along with good CO2 (if you use it), light (evenly spread...not always intense but will help a bit if things get a tad cramp) and plant nutrients.

Regards
Peter Gwee

[geoffrey]

When I first started, I asked the same question too. How is it that shaded part of tanks I've seen still have lush growth. I had problems then, yellowing and eventually botak.

Realised that light alone does not keep healthy tanks. A combination of good CO2, fertilisation (NPK and TE) and light is how I overcome that problem.

[vinz]

It also helps to just hide the shaded portions with mid height plants, wood or rocks.

[juggler]

Usually I will position the shade-loving plants like Anubias sp. in those darker spots. With experience, you can tell which plants don't need full sun to stay healthy.

[David]

Besides good maintenence, its how well one knows their plants and layout. stemmed plants could be bare at the baseline but they are usually hidden by shade loving plants......

[thwwx]

Wow, all the seniors replying to this, I'm paying attention. PeterGwee suggests that it is part and parcel of dense planting, oh man, that's depressing Some LFS like Plantas and System & Control Engr have super dense display tanks, I cannot imagine the amount of time they spend just to maintain it, not to mention the number of ko yok plasters on their lower backs.

For the other helpful tips of strategically hiding the base/shaded areas, ironically, that's how it eventually lead to my tank's current state of neglect. It looks ok from most perspective, only noticed the weak foundation of what seemed like lush growth during aggressive pruning. I hope to identify the root issue and try to tackle it before I give up and resort to alternative visual techniques.

I do have CO2 and pretty aggressive fertilization program previously, but I was mesmerised by how great some of those ultra low maintainance nano tanks work out. Realising I was on the path to eventual overdose, I reduced the dosage of both as an experiment and things looked fine till I discovered the yellowing during pruning.

I think David nailed it when he says it is about knowing your plants, and how they respond to different deficiencies, which unfortunately is more based on experience.

Btw geoffrey, may I ask what is TE?

[vinz]

TE = trace elements. Commercial products:
- Singapore Hydroponics (Dr. Mallick's) LushGro-MICROS,
- Seachem Flourish Trace (I think it's called Trace), and
- Bioplast has one product for that too.

Plantas' tanks don't look like they have been pruned anytime recently. I think at least one of the tanks are chilled, and the place is air-conditioned.

System Control's tanks get constant attention. Plus MH and chilled water.

I can't confirm on this but, it seems that chilled water does make a difference. Also, a few of us noticed some time ago that a good supply of PO4 seems to make a difference too. I've stopped keeping much stemmed plants, so I've stopped experimenting in this area.

Maybe you would like to take up the experiments?

[bclee]

[quote:1984dfddfa="vinz"]TE = trace elements. Commercial products:
- Singapore Hydroponics (Dr. Mallick's) LushGro-MICROS,
- Seachem Flourish Trace (I think it's called Trace), and
- Bioplast has one product for that too.

[/quote:1984dfddfa]

For Seachem, you should use Seachem Flourish instead. Flourish trace do not contain Fe.

BC

[MikeKoh]

Most of us would add fert, increase light, increase Co2.... but very few knows when and how to trim.

My experience is to trim to get the lush growth. Leaving the tank alone and let it grow into a jungle would get you unhealth plants due to lack of lights.

A good healthy dose of macros and also micros and weekly trimming of unrully plants actually gives you green thick healthy leaves!

[gregorsamsa]

apart from dense overlapping vegetation, may i know how is it possible that given the high lighting in Amano's works (4wpg in 2 feeters usually), the slowgrowers such as java ferns and moss, are mixed with relatively faster growers light riccia, hairgrass, without any problems?

is there a secret too in mixing plants of varying growth without effecting algae problem?

[thwwx]

Yes, interesting question raised by gregorsamsa. My nanas develop light green spots under intense lighting.