Zerofighter and Philipians,
Thanks for your nice comments.
Philipians,
You are right that the main focus is the ridge. I will try adjusting with more DW. BTW the ridge is made with two equally shape elephant stones which I got at GC. One of the stones had a hook shape at the tip, allowing me to put the two stones together and from a cave like shape.
Now searching for plants and start the water cycle.
Regards,
Danny
Photo quite blur..... but just want to show what I had done up to from 11pm to 6.30am!
Front: Back:
20150221_061728.jpg20150221_061705.jpg
Monte Carlo
Nana Petite
Bucephalandra sp. Brownie Red
Bucephalandra sp Ahmad (unknown species )
Trying out small plantlets of Bucephaland sp Black gaia.
Cheers!
I personally like the 2 focal points,they are at the right places.
IMHO it is a good set up on the rule of thirds.
You can read about this here,
http://www.scapefu.com/category/aquascaping-analysis/
till 6.30am!
welcome to the aquarium hobby.
I owned small tanks only.
Though it's small, i always enjoyed setting up the tank. And sometimes you just can't stop. The next time you know it, it's already so late. But the accomplishment is indescribable and I'll spend hours relooking at the setup.
Great stuff and thanks for sharing the setup and joy.
(subscribed to your thread)
from 14L to 8L tank.
My final layout and now is to maintain regular change of water for the next few weeks. Hopefully can bring the ammonia down to zero.
20150223_014151.jpg
Plants:
Monte Carlo
Nana Petite
Bucephalandra sp. Brownie Red
Bucephalandra sp. Ahmad (unknown species )
Small plantlets of Bucephalandra sp. Black gaia
Newly added Plants:
Bucephalandra sp. Fire Bird
Flame Moss on driftwood
3 x Marimo Balls
Advice on injection of CO2.
I have been injecting CO2 with my LED lights switch on together for 3hrs (7-9am) and another 3hrs(7-9pm) and I have no clue on what is the best timing and process.
Can anyone advice whether I need to inject CO2 first before switching on the lights?
Usually co2 is injected 30mins or 1hr before lights are turn on depending on the tank size.
For your tank i say 30mins before lights is on .
Hi zerofighter, thank you so much for your advice.
Two more question:
1. Having CO2 30 mins before lights on but do I continue to keep the CO2 on with the lights?
2. How long should I keep the lights on?
Regards,
Danny
Yes, keep the c02 on with the lights,example if light is on at 7pm to 11pm,co2 should be on at 630pm till 11pm or 30mins before lights off.
Total light hours usually varies around 7 to 10hours max.
Zerofigtherx101, thank you so much for your advice.
For CO2, try to get a drop checker to ensure that CO2 is sufficient. Ideally, CO2 will be at 30ppm(dark green on drop checker) throughout the entire photoperiod.
For lighting, most people would recommend a siesta period of roughly 2 hours in between the photoperiod. For example, if you aim for a total of 8 hrs photoperiod, then lights could be turned on 12pm-4pm and 6pm-10pm.
For the tank, you could try to plsnt more densely. Higher plant mass will help slow algae from getting an edge over tyr plants.
Cheers,
JJ
Do note that the siesta period lighting method is usually for those tanks not injecting Co2 (ie. low tech setups, to encourage replenishment of the limited natural Co2 in the water) or for those who want to have the lights on later in the evening so they can view the tank when they get home after work.
If you do run a siesta/split lighting period in a tank with Co2 injection, it'll be best to also schedule the Co2 injection to cut of during the lights off siesta period, or else the Co2 levels could accumulate to potentially dangerous levels for livestock as the plants are no longer using Co2 and photosynthesizing during the siesta period when the lights are off.
Overall its usually still better to just have a one single photoperiod with Co2 injection starting slightly earlier than lights on and ending slightly earlier than lights off, it ensures the plants get uninterrupted light to photosynthesize and grow continuously, along with less variations in Co2 levels.
Help! I notice quite a fair bit of white worms crawling on the glass. Very very small.... look like dust or dirt but when i use my thong to remove them, i can see them moving.
Advice needed as i don't think my tank is cycled and i don't dare to put in live stock.
HELP!
Those are most likely detritus worms... very common in tanks, they feed on organic material and algae. Harmless and actually a valued part of a tank ecosystem. There are usually lots of them living in the substrate and filter, just that if you see alot of them it usually means the population is multiplying due to ample food sources (and there are no predators like small fishes to eat them up).Originally Posted by Danny Lau
There are also another type which is larger/fatter and have a triangular head with 2 eyes, those are planaria. Also common in tanks too, but they can eat fish eggs and they look creepy like slugs, so some people consider them pests.
Anyways, once you introduce small fishes into the tank, they will eat up the white worms and planaria, so its a form of live food for them.
Hi, my tank is now one week old and still in the middle of water cycling. now there are two snails appeared. Does it mean that i can put in livestock and what can i do to remove the snails?
The snails appearing just means they most likely hitchhiked in with the plants (ie. pond snails), doesn't necessarily mean the tank is cycled for fishes and shrimps though. Pond snails can be super hardy and survive adverse water conditions that kill other livestock.
At this moment, you can either remove the snails manually and discard them, or dose anti-snail chemical treatments (since you have no livestock in the tank yet, especially other invertebrates like shrimps), that can help to kill off the pest snails once and for all... well, at least until more pest snails hitchhike in with other plants added later.
Hi Urban Aquaria, Thank you so much for your valuable advice. Being a first timer, there is always a "kang chiong" syndrome.
A test patience seems to be the main focus to be cultivated in this hobby.
Update on my Tanks:
Attachment 47380
Plants:
Monte Carlo
Nana Petite
Bucephalandra sp. Brownie Red
Bucephalandra sp. Ahmad (Unknown species )
Bucephalandra sp. Black Gaia (Small plantlets)
Bucephalandra sp. Fire Bird
Bucephalandra Brownie Purple (On Tree)
Frogbits
Marimo Balls
Water Parameters:
pH - 6.8
Ammonia - 0 ppm
Nitrite - 0.5 ppm
Nirate - 20 ppm
Livestocks:
Yamato Shrimp (5x)
Red Nose Shrimp (2x)
China Loach (1x)
Horned Nerite Snails (1x)
Queries:
A few of my Yamato shrimps tends to turn abit orange as compare to those greyish transparent ones (refer to pic below). Is there an issue?
Attachment 47381
I'm guessing it shouldn't be an issue with yamato shrimps having a tint of color, some people say it could be a sign of stress, while others say it means they are just preparing to molt.
I guess as long as they are not milky white color (which means they are ill), its okay.
It could also be due to diet too, i also had yamato shrimps that developed a greenish tint, figured its probably from all the green algae they eat in the tank.
Update on my Tanks:
20150304_075449.jpg
Plants:
Monte Carlo
Nana Petite
Bucephalandra sp. Brownie Red
Bucephalandra sp. Ahmad (Unknown species )
Bucephalandra sp. Black Gaia (Small plantlets)
Bucephalandra sp. Fire Bird
Bucephalandra Brownie Purple (On Tree)
Frogbits
Marimo Balls
Water Parameters:
pH - 6.8
Ammonia - 0 ppm
Nitrite - 0.5 ppm
Nirate - 20 ppm
Livestocks:
Yamato Shrimp (5x)
Red Nose Shrimp (2x)
China Loach (1x)
Horned Nerite Snails (1x)
Queries:
A few of my Yamato shrimps tends to turn abit orange as compare to those greyish transparent ones (refer to pic below). Is there an issue?
20150304_171359.jpg
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