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Seaview has. I looking for ITSA co2 reactor. But no luck.
Hi
I like to if any members here have used UP brand new Atomizer system. The one where you can take off the ceramic housing for cleaning. Can you share your experience.
Also where to buy this in LFS in Singapore for 16/22mm size?
Thanksco2-ATOMIZER-new UP.jpg
Seaview has. I looking for ITSA co2 reactor. But no luck.
Seaview also has the ISTA Co2 reactor, they are at the top shelf above the middle accessories display rack... or you can also check at places like SunPets, Aquatic Avenue and even C328.Originally Posted by Dscheng
Ok, Thanks.
I'll see there. Is it the one where you can take off the ceramic tube.?
BTW which is cheaper from Ebay or LFS?
I hope members who have used this model can share their experience.
Have you checked at C328? I remember seeing the new generation atomizers displayed there too, both the 12/16 and 16/22 versions (they are hooked up overhead at the right side of the shop with all the other diffuser items).
Price-wise, buying locally or from eBay seems to work out quite similar, maybe at most +/- a few dollars depending on the seller. The difference is if you get a faulty one locally, its easier to exchange for a new working unit at the LFS (if they are nice enough).
Btw, you have to make sure your Co2 system's working pressure is high enough to operate the atomizer.
Great. How come you can remember the exact position of the product. :-)
I think no problem. Now I'm using Intense brand inline-diffuser
I bought the older model from there too (the diffusers and atomizers are always hung up on suspended hooks)... and i remember pulling on one box and almost collapse the whole line of items.
I check before le.. Only the new UP brand atomizer display there.
I was at SeaView today. They have the reactors for Co2. Hope it helps.
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Wa.. really have. On the top of the shelf ar? I must be really blind lolz. Do you happen to know how much is it? Weekend will dropby there !
I just bought the UP in-atomizer new mode (16/22mm). It cost $31 per piece. I have looked at EBay before for this model. The cheapest was SG$35 PLUS 30 to 45 days of waiting for delivery.
But Seaview does not carry the replacement ceramic diffuser tube although the kind staff have promised to check for me from the supplier. Does any member know where to get the replacement ceramic diffuser tube so that I can switch when the other tube is being cleaned.
And what is the best way to clean them. Is it the good old bleach or Hydrogen Peroxide method. Thanks.
UP New Inline CO2 Atomizer Diffuser System 16 22mm.png
Sorry Bro, didn't see the price but I guess SeaView's price are not that bad.
BTW keep us updated on how you go about using the reactor in your tank. I tried once but no luck. Maybe I can learn from you. :-)
I guess if the supplier does stock the ceramic tubes separately, it'll be good to get a second one.I just bought the UP in-atomizer new mode (16/22mm). It cost $31 per piece. I have looked at EBay before for this model. The cheapest was SG$35 PLUS 30 to 45 days of waiting for delivery.
But Seaview does not carry the replacement ceramic diffuser tube although the kind staff have promised to check for me from the supplier. Does any member know where to get the replacement ceramic diffuser tube so that I can switch when the other tube is being cleaned.
And what is the best way to clean them. Is it the good old bleach or Hydrogen Peroxide method. Thanks.
UP New Inline CO2 Atomizer Diffuser System 16 22mm.png
Though usually when doing cleaning of ceramic tubes with H2O2 (best done regularly even if the ceramic is working fine, it helps prevent stuff accumulating too much inside the tubes over time), you just soak it in the solution for a few minutes (if its really badly clogged up then have to soak longer or do repeated soaking with fresh solutions), after its cleaned, take it out and rinse under running tap water, then install back into the diffuser and can start using again. The downtime is usually very minimal for regular cleaning.
Alternatively, you could just buy a 2nd unit and use the ceramic tube from it as a spare.
If i remember correctly, the ISTA 12/16 Co2 Reactor cost around $15+ (can't confirm exactly, but its definitely less than $20).
Wow. Thanks! I didn't know cleaning can so easy. I get tensed when cleaning my old Intense brand in-line diffuser ( the diffuser can't be taken apart). Recently I tried to clean the old diffuser by soaking in full strength bleach for 10 minutes (including inside the diffuser) and then soak in 3% hydrogen peroxide for 10 minute. I noticed the bubble size still remained the same after cleaning.(best done regularly even if the ceramic is working fine, it helps prevent stuff accumulating too much inside the tubes over time), you just soak it in the solution for a few minutes (if its really badly clogged up then have to soak longer or do repeated soaking with fresh solutions), after its cleaned, take it out and rinse under running tap water, then install back into the diffuser and can start using again. The downtime is usually very minimal for regular cleaning.
Alternatively, you could just buy a 2nd unit and use the ceramic tube from it as a spare.
That's why I'm still on the lookout for a better way to inject Co2 in the tank.
Hope I'll have better luck with this new diffuser. :-)
Yeah, it really depends on how much the ceramic material is clogged up... sometimes if its really clogged, will need more time for the treatments to oxidize and dissolve the accumulated minerals and algae buildup.
Thats why its best to clean the ceramic tubes regularly, rather than wait until it clogs up, then it becomes more difficult to unclog
Thanks for the tip. I always wait until I see the micro bubbles getting bigger and then I clean the diffuser. What you mentioned is right. A little timely maintenance saves a lot of headache.Yeah, it really depends on how much the ceramic material is clogged up... sometimes if its really clogged, will need more time for the treatments to oxidize and dissolve the accumulated minerals and algae buildup.
Thats why its best to clean the ceramic tubes regularly, rather than wait until it clogs up, then it becomes more difficult to unclog
BTW I saw this post in the UKAPS website where they discuss about the UP brand diffuser. It seem that the diffuser's Co2 input nipple can break off easily. One has to be careful when taking off the rigid Co2 hose. Not good news is it?
http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/o...-co2art.32211/
Yeah, same for the ISTA Co2 reactors and other similiar designs... the Co2 input port are small and the neck is made of relatively thin plastic material, so its much easier to break. Especially if you are using Co2 pressure resistant tubing, the fit is tight enough to break it when trying to remove for cleaning. I've broken a few over the past few years, and no choice have to buy new units to replace.Thanks for the tip. I always wait until I see the micro bubbles getting bigger and then I clean the diffuser. What you mentioned is right. A little timely maintenance saves a lot of headache.
BTW I saw this post in the UKAPS website where they discuss about the UP brand diffuser. It seem that the diffuser's Co2 input nipple can break off easily. One has to be careful when taking off the rigid Co2 hose. Not good news is it?
www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/original-up-new-inline-co2-atomizer-diffuser-system-available-now-on-co2art.32211/
Nowadays, i use a push-fit pneumatic quick connector installed in between the bubble counter and check valve, so that i can disconnect the hose easily for maintenance, without trying to pull it from the fragile Co2 input port. It looks like this:
Photo from Google Images.
Can get them from most industrial hardware stores.
Thanks again for this awesome tip.Yeah, same for the ISTA Co2 reactors and other similiar designs... the Co2 input port are small and the neck is made of relatively thin plastic material, so its much easier to break. Especially if you are using Co2 pressure resistant tubing, the fit is tight enough to break it when trying to remove for cleaning. I've broken a few over the past few years, and no choice have to buy new units to replace.
Nowadays, i use a push-fit pneumatic quick connector installed in between the bubble counter and check valve, so that i can disconnect the hose easily for maintenance, without trying to pull it from the fragile Co2 input port. It looks like this:
Photo from Google Images.
Can get them from most industrial hardware stores.
BTW is this connector used in water filter units? Is the fit tight enough to prevent gas leakage?
I have also broken the Co2 nipple in a reactor (SG$60)before but fortunately I was able to fit the hose back by dipping it in very hot water for a few minutes and then pushing the now soft hose into the remaining broken nipple. But then running a Co2 reactor is like nuclear science.
I could never get the DC to be lime green no matter how much Co2 I pumped in. I even tried to have Co2 four hours before lights on. Now it just collecting dust in my cabinet.
To tell the truth, when I started this hobby I was only concerned about the type of fish I was going to get, the plants and fish disease. I thought injecting Co2 into the tank would be a walk in the park but it turns out that it's more like climbing Mount Kinabalu.
Take care
Last edited by Filet-O-Fish; 26th Feb 2015 at 13:23.
The one i got is designed for gas pneumatic equipment... the product description specifically states its only for gas (up to 150 PSI) though, and not for liquids, so its probably different from the ones for water filters. I guess you have to look for those types that are designed for gas equipment.Thanks again for this awesome tip.
BTW is this connector used in water filter units? Is the fit tight enough to prevent gas leakage?
From my experience so far, Co2 reactors do need certain conditions to work efficiently... the ones i use (ISTA brand) utilize a dual spinning rotor system to chop up and dissolve the Co2 bubbles, so the higher the flow rate the faster the rotors spin, and hence the faster and better the Co2 is dissolved into the water. The reactor model i use is rated for 360-1,000 l/ph and my canister filter runs at 750 l/ph, so thats on the upper end of the flow speed range, which seems to work well for my setups.But then running a Co2 reactor is like nuclear science.
To tell the truth, when I started this hobby I was only concerned about the type of fish I was going to get, the plants and fish disease. I thought injecting Co2 into the tank would be a walk in the park but it turns out that it's more like climbing Mount Kinabalu.
Take care
I notice those who use lower flow rate canister filters with the same reactor model tend to report difficulty in achieving sufficient Co2 levels in the tank, so flow rate seems to be one of the main factors determining its efficiency.
Reactors also tend to raise the tank's Co2 levels at a more gradual pace, rather than ceramic diffusers which, once in operation, immediately spew micro bubbles directly into the water column. So you'll need to give it time to raise the Co2 levels and fine tune it to keep the Co2 levels stable. The ideal injection/mixing rate also depends on how much un-used Co2 is being brought forward overnight from the previous day too. It has to be tuned over the course of a few days.
As for bps injection rate, most of the Co2 being injected stays inside the reactor while its being slowly dissolved, and since there is a limit to how much of the gas pocket can be dissolved at any one time, increasing the bps injection rate past a certain level may not generate as much improvement and can just result in a backlog of accumulated undissolved gas... a sign of that happening is when the reactor chamber starts to get filled more than 1/3 or 1/2 with gas, then it means that there is more Co2 injected than can be dissolved in time (in the ideal situation, only the top section where the rotors are should have gas pocket getting mixed, the rest of the chamber should still be full of water).
I guess the solution for larger tanks that need more Co2 is to use larger reactors with larger mixing chambers.
I am using NA type one for my current setup. Think almost maintainance free. And I can change the barb fitting to 12/16mm in future if i need. The reactor dissolved rate seems quite efficient.
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