Hi all,
I am doing up a scape with "floating rocks" and would like to attach some tiny carpet plants on them using ista glue or aquarium silicone. Which carpet plants will attach to rock surfaces? I am thinking of monte carlo, java moss and if theres no choice, HC.
Please advice thank you
Those plants you mentioned can attach to rock surfaces over time... sometimes you'll see them already tied to rocks and on sale at LFS too.
Instead of using aquarium glue (which may create abit of a mess with small delicate plants), it's usually neater to just tie them on with fishing line.
Will the fishing line be ugly and easily seen? Also, will the plants cover and conceal the lines once they have grown?Originally Posted by Urban Aquaria
If you use the thin fishing line (get the thinnest you can find), its quite invisible. The plants will also cover the lines when they grow out.
Thanks, I have done exactly that.
1. May I know what are the more common plants/moss that can thrive in Singapore room temperature other than java moss?
2 Can taiwan moss grow/be healthy in room temp?
3. Also, what is the lily looking plant attached photo called? Got it from c328 and it is experiencing some yellowing.
4. The other photo shows my poor commando cherry shrimp lying there and moving its legs around, occasionally jumping around. It was alright at first when I placed it into the tank this afternoon. What might be the cause of such a scenario? I suspect it is due to the use of copper previously on the lily looking plant or that the water conditions are still unstable as the tank is in its first days cycling.
Felt that I have been posting too many threads.
Please advice Urban Aquaria, thank you
Don't put faunas into a newly setup tank as perimeter is very unstable like when you're creating a bomb if put something wrong it will explode ( die ).
Majority of the plants you can buy from LFS are able to adapt and grow in local temperatures... most of them are tropical plants after all. Taiwan moss can grow and thrive in room temperature too.
Many people tend to blame temperature when they can't grow certain plants, but the fact is light, nutrients and Co2 control plant growth much more than just temperature.
Of course, average local room temperature being referred to here is 29-30°C during warmer months... if your room is much warmer than that (ie. >32°C), then you'll be sweating like mad in it anyways and probably be finding ways to cool it down for your own comfort.
That is pennywort (ie. Hydrocotyle verticillata)... its a relatively common and easy to grow marginal/pond plant.
If you see yellowing in the leaves, it could be due to its transition from emersed to submersed growth. If the yellowing persists in the new leaves, then it could be due to nutrient deficiencies.
When a newly setup tank is still cycling, there will be ammonia, nitrite and nitrates spiking at high levels, this is harmful to fishes and shrimps. Any livestock added during the cycling period will suffer and die from the toxic parameters.
You have to make sure the tank is fully cycled (use test kits to confirm it), before adding in livestock.
Alright thanks again for the swift and precise help. My taiwan moss is turning slowly brown. I tie them to rocks with fishing line quite tightly and dose Seachem Flourish once in a while, is there such a thing as too much ferts? I am using a white tube light that was bought 2nd hand hence I have no idea about the specs. There is also a DIY co2 setup used with yeast and sugar solution for the taiwan moss. Please tell me what am I doing wrong
I use commando shrimp to test water conditions. Test kits are just too costly. The shrimp was jumping about and swimming to the top, followed by it sinking to the bottom motionless. It did that several times. Looks like it has gotten into contact with copper. (from past horrid shrimps massacre experiences).
How long do you cycle tanks? I have been told 1 month is enough. What about if the tank experiences a bacteria bloom in the middle of cycling?
Without knowing the exact specs of the tank and lights, its abit difficult to know if anything is out of place with it... a photo of the tank and more descriptions of the equipment and setup would help.
Moss should not require much care other than a good source of light, their nutrient uptake isn't high either. Sometimes too much nutrients may affect moss, but it'll have to be at really high levels which you don't usually encounter if dosing commercial fertilizers (unless you dump a whole bottle into a very small tank).
Whether the DIY Co2 setup is useful depends on its diffusion efficiency and how much Co2 is actually in the water column, you'll need a drop checker to monitor that the Co2 is at optimal levels, without a way to gauge the Co2 levels, it could end up bring too low (no use to plant growth at all) or too high (toxic to livestock).
Do note that fluorescent tube lights (ie. T8 or T5) will naturally degrade in intensity over the span of months, so if you bought it 2nd hand, the tubes might be of lower intensity by now, therefore you may need to change the light tubes to new ones to restore its original intensity.
Unless you tested the tank for copper, you can't just assume its due to copper poisoning. It could be due to many other factors.
The problem with not using test kits is that you'll just be constantly making wild guesses, while trying random methods to solve problems which may not even help. This also makes it difficult for others to advise you on proper solutions. Because of the lack of info on water parameters, everyone ends up guessing too.
The cycling process of tanks can vary between different setups, the beneficial bacteria populations need time to grow large enough to handle the tank's bio-load... some tanks can take a few weeks to cycle, some tanks can take a few months, you have to test the parameters to know for sure. There is no way to know just by looking at the tank. Bacteria bloom can happen anytime (even in cycled tanks) so its not indicative of a tank cycle either.
Last edited by Urban Aquaria; 11th May 2015 at 14:25.
You will still need to test your water parameters to confirm if your tank is cycled or not. There is no standard timing for cycling of tanks. Some are faster and some are slower. It would help quicken the process if you have mature media from established tanks to grow the beneficial bacteria.
Take test kits as a long term investment for your tanks since one liquid test kit is usually for 100 or so tests.
In my opinion, it's rather inhumane to use livestock as a benchmark to test if your tank is cycled or not since the poor fish/shrimp is suffering and dying slowly.
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