It could be a dragon stone? In any case, what shrimps are you keeping? In my experience the stone does raise pH a little, hence might not be suitable for some shrimps.
Hi i would like to check with you guys if this rock is safe for shrimps?
It was previously used for my friend's tank. Any one has any idea what rock is this? I cant seem to find similar rocks with more info online
IMG_20150310_190428.jpg
It could be a dragon stone? In any case, what shrimps are you keeping? In my experience the stone does raise pH a little, hence might not be suitable for some shrimps.
PH is not the issue. GH is.
Im keeping RCS actually. Recent reported deaths of my lower quality shrimps. Planning to get a test kits to test it out.
Can i ask mainly what test kits a shrimp keeper will have in an established tank? PH , GH, KH , TDS meter ?
RCS should be able to take a wider range of PH right?
I started off with
1. API test strip
To measure KH, PH, GH, NO2 and NO3.
2. API ammonia test solution
3. TDS meter.
I chose test strip initially because i wanted something easy and lower cost.
When my test strip ran out, i went to buy test solution instead. I bought only for GH, KH and NO3. The rest of the parameters I found it quite stable after numerous wc and test results, so I decided not to test it anymore.
TDS is the one that always on the rise for me along with GH and not forgetting NO3. So I'm keeping my focus currently on these.
I don't intend to test ammonia anymore unless the shrimp population kept increasing.
Temperature is something that i have stopped monitoring because it remained at around 28 during the day with the cooling fan in continuous operation.
from 14L to 8L tank.
It should be Ok because i read from other thread that it's possible and it still breed in SG climate even without Chiller or fan.
I gave it a try after a Bro suggested to me. That was one of the things that were in my last attempt on shrimp keeping.
But some cooling fan is noisy, some breakdown easily. You need to select one carefully if you are going for it.
from 14L to 8L tank.
Currently i have afew sakuras in a holding container while i find out if the rock will affect the water or not. One of the berried shrimps in it just recently gave birth lots of small shrimplets. gonna be a headache trying to change water . i think ill get some distilled water to topup
That's a great news on the shrimplets. Congratulations.
For my water change, i use those air pump tubing to siphon out the water. The end of the tube that is in the tank, i will stuff a fine pore sponge (cut from spare sponge) to prevent the shrimplets from sucking in.
It's slow but it does not matter to me because changing 1.5l of water won't take really that long time.
from 14L to 8L tank.
Ok shall try using that method. btw just to check what are the proper PH, GH, KH, TDS values that works well for RCS? seems like there is much differed opinions regarding the values as of what i searched online. I see some people say that ph can be from 6.0 to 7.8 some other guy says it should be 6.4 to 7.2. Very confusing.
I read those as well.
A vast different of parameters from different keepers and yet the RCS still alive. That's probably why it's known to be hardy, and yet difficult also.
My Ph is always around 6.5 to 7.
My GH is the killing one, it went up till 214.8 ppm.
KH us 53.7 ppm.
My tds climbed up to 326 now.
I'm seeing 1 shrimp death after few days.
I am not sure if it's the rock.
I built this tank initially for iwaguni layout.
It turned out that the RCS began to breed when I bought it as algae crew.
I'm doing more daily top up with distilled water instead of tap water (aged with prime) to control these parameters.
I am reluctant to take out the rocks because much of it are covered by the substrate and if i take it out, it might cause a huge fluctuation and thereby sudden death to all.
But the shrimplets are doing well and there are still saddled shrimps and few berried again after its delivery.
So I am clueless what really worked.
Perhaps the hardy ones can really survive in the extreme parameters while the weaker ones will die off.
Hardy ones might end up shorter life span as well.
If this batch died off, I'll restart the tank by removing all the rocks, just plain substrate with carpet grass and moss ball.
Ultimately I wanted to try keeping RCS without much casualty.
from 14L to 8L tank.
I saw your post on how you failed and somehow succeeded.
I have no clue on how to see the KH, mine just changed colour after one drop. I didnt get the GH tester yet as it was out of stock, and ive shipped in the TDS meter last week i think should arrive this week or so.
I think my PH in my original tank was too low due to the GEX soil i think. i previously tested and got 6.0ph
Are you also using the api test solution?
I am using it and it also changes colour on the first drop. It should be Orange colour. Then cap it and shake. After that add another drop, cap and shake. Repeat until the colour turned to Green.
Below are the instructions that i copied from apifishcare.com.
Directions for Testing GH 1. Rinse a clean test tube with water to be tested. 2. Fill the test tube with 5 ml of water to be tested (to the line on the tube).3. Holding the bottle vertically, add GH Test Solution, one drop at a time. Be sure to count the number of drops being added.4. Cap the test tube and invert several times after each drop. 5. The test is completed when the water in the test tube, after having been shaken, turns from orange to green. If you have difficulty discerning the color after the first drop of test solution is added, remove the cap from the test tube and, while holding it over a white background, look down through the tube.6. The GH value is determined by the number of drops of reagent that must be added to turn the water in the test tube green. See GH & KH Conversion Chart at end of instruction leaflet.
from 14L to 8L tank.
The above is GH Test.
For KH, it has to turn from Blue to Yellow.
Directions for Testing KH1. Rinse a clean test tube with water to be tested. 2. Fill the test tube with 5 ml of water to be tested (to the line on the tube).3. Holding the bottle vertically, add KH Test Solution, one drop at a time. Be sure to count the number of drops being added.4. Cap the test tube and invert several times after each drop. 5. The test is completed when the water in the test tube, after having been shaken, turns from blue to yellow. If you have difficulty discerning the color after the first drop of test solution is added, remove the cap from the test tube and, while holding it over a white background, look down through the tube.6. The KH value is determined by the number of drops of test solution that must be added to turn the water in the test tube bright yellow. See GH & KH Conversion Chart at end of instruction leaflet.
from 14L to 8L tank.
Did you guys check the expiry date for the testkit? Some brand move faster in the lfs and their stock are fresh.
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