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Well said bro, i also don't really trust the chemical that acelerate in cycling fish tank. Those seaview staff especially counter staff know nuts about it. Or maybe they just want to promote the product.
When I season my tank water, I don't do any testing at all. But I always make sure I do daily water change of 25%. My method is unconventional in that many will scoff at it, lol.Originally Posted by Dscheng
But no matter what spikes, my fish will remain healthy and fine. I will continue doing the water changes until my tank is seasoned. No need any testing.
I have come across too many beginning hobbyists who kill their fish with too many chemicals. More importantly, they kill the bacteria.
LIFE IS UNBEARABLE WITHOUT A FISH TANK!!!
Well said bro, i also don't really trust the chemical that acelerate in cycling fish tank. Those seaview staff especially counter staff know nuts about it. Or maybe they just want to promote the product.
XD Probably those who scoff are newer generation.Your method is traditional method and I was using it in the pass too. I don't recall test kits and aquasoil were available or commonly available. Usually depends on fish behavior and environment condition as telltale sign. Hahaha... Nowadays people are aiming for professional or influenced to buy test kit, chemical and equipment. XD Even I got influenced too. In the past, I was using gravels so can add livestock straight away and do the cycling. but now XD got hooked by the aquasoil which contains ammonia. So it's really challenging to keep livestocks alive during cycling. Even some plants can melt in high ammonia level.
XD I am a beginner that just killed some of my shrimps with stress coat. After reading on API products, I decided to buy 1 bottle of stress coat last week to try it out. The direction stated that can use double dosage so I neglected on the dosage a little. I did some reading on the forums, a few people said that stress coat is shrimp safe. My fishes are happy BUT 5 of my shrimps died after using stress coat!!!!Not sure if it's really stress coat...
XD Probably due to beginner syndrome. When I just started I was so excited to get fishes and impatient. After getting the fish, I realize I don't have the knowledge to keep them. Then go to the LFS ask the uncle why, then the uncle will recommend this and that but I was just a kid so only got $$ to buy salt. XD So I just did frequent WC and dosed salt. Well... it works!!
Then after I bought a book on freshwater aquarium, I was fascinated by the planted aquarium. I started my amateur planted aquarium and fascinated by equipment but too expensive for a secondary school boy. So it's a simple setup with a ugf, amazon sword, anubias, hair grass, moneywort? & some others plants XD Then I realize it's not easy to start a planted aquarium and lots of patient needed. =X After keeping the tank for 6 months, I got tried of the maintenance, so plants & fishes died and my interest died too.
XD Beginners always get fascinated by fish and equipment... so they buy and buy... dose and dose... XD I was lucky I didn't get fascinated by the chemical fert, else probably I might have kill my fish with the fert.
XD I same thinking as you but have the urge to test and compare all those products. I believes some works, some not efficient while some don't.
Hi all, now I'm still cycling my tank we with ard 6-9 fishes. Though nitrite level is still high, I'm still doing daily water change of 40-60%.
My question is can I add in substrate as in planta soil to beautify the bottom of the tank?
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Actually, the best thing you should be doing now, is to finalise the layout of your tank and just stick to it for some time without meddling around (as tough as it may be).
With a decent sized filter of any kind, you should be able to cycle the tank in a week or 2 as long as your stuff stays constant and WC is done in small, regular amounts. So if you are intending to use soil, do it now, and then don't touch it anymore. Of course, move your commando fish into a temporary tank first. Many soils leech a lot of stuff into the water at the start before stabilizing and buffering your water to its intended state.
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Setup: ADA Cube Garden 45-P, Starlitz Clear 45, Eheim Aquacompact 40
Layout/Hardscape: ADA Amazonia Powder Soil, Borneowild Rutsuuddo Wood (SS Root Type)
Fauna: Apisto Trifasciata, Sundadanio Axelrodi (Blue), Yamato Shrimp
You could do that... but do note that most active soil substrates (designed for growing plants) will release high amounts of ammonia initially to boost plant growth, so if you add those soil to your existing tank, it will start another cycle.
If you want to do that at this stage, it'll be better to transfer the fishes out to another tank and only shift them back when the cycle is fully complete.
I have had two instances whereby my fiddling with tank substrate caused nitrite spike. Both times I used Prime to detoxify nitrite and Nitrozym nitrifying bacteria (by DuPont, in capsule form) to re-cycle my tank. I also do multiple partial water change ~40% during the course of the day especially if fish can be seen gasping for air at the water surface. The tank should cycle in about 2-3 days using the above method. Best is to check if nitrite levels drop to zero via testing using a test kit.
So technically you could still add more substrate, but be on standby for a longer cycling plus lifestock casualties. Like UA said, if you love fish then contain them elsewhere while the renovation happens.
Hi All,
My ammonia and nitrite level have dropped to 0 - 0.25. Now the nitrate is around 20-40ppm. So do i continue to do the daily water change of 50% and more?
Your water may be starting to stabilize.
At this point, you can do 25% or less water daily change to reduce the nitrate concentration.
If you have plants in the tank, they will absorb some of the nitrate. No matter how low you desire
your nitrate to be, you must take note that fish can gradually be be acclimatized to different nitrate levels too.
You have to play it by experience.
The important thing is make sure you don't shock the fish with abrupt changes in nitrate levels. If the fish is accustomed to higher nitrate level due to infrequent water changes, any sudden big water change will be harmful and shocking to them. Thus it is best to develop a fixed routine of water change eg 20% every couple of days. If your bacteria is healthy and sufficient, the water will be very clear.
Hi guys, the test result and my tank are as per attached.
Is this considered as cycled? my last wc was on monday night with 20% only.
Is my pH abit low? Any ways to increase it?
Is the nitrate level still high?
Appreciate your professional advice.
IMG_20150826_223210 (640x475).jpgIMG_20150826_223242 (640x475).jpgIMG_20150826_223322 (640x475).jpg
Hi guys,
This is for my 2nd tank with a crayfish only. test result and tank as per attached too.
Same question as for my fish tank earlier.
Last wc was on monday night. around 40% change.
is this considered as cycled?
Is the pH level abit low? Should i increase it? How?
Is the nitrate level considered high?
Appreciate your professional advice.
IMG_20150826_223227 (475x640).jpgIMG_20150826_223232 (475x640).jpgIMG_20150826_225057_SHOT2SHOT1 (640x475).jpg
Both tanks can be considered cycled (based on their existing bio-load), you just need to do more water changes to gradually lower the nitrate levels, try to keep it below 20ppm (light orange to yellow).
As for your pH, i assume the left most test tube is the pH test result, it shows light blue/green which based on the test chart is between 6.8-7.0 pH... so it's not that low, more towards slightly acidic to neutral, which is okay.
Last edited by Urban Aquaria; 26th Aug 2015 at 23:52.
Do more water change as in 1 in how many days? How about the amount of water change?
Nice and very cute setup. ^_^
Your nitrate is red colour, seem like super high. Do 20-30% WC daily.
Okay, every water change you do will reduce the nitrate levels by the equivalent percentage of water changed.... so lets say you do a 20% water change, it will reduce the nitrates by 20%, so if the nitrates are 160ppm, after 20% water change it will drop to 128ppm. Next day if you do another 20% water change, then it should drop further down to 102ppm (assuming its not climbing up in the meantime) and so on. You have to keep doing such water changes daily until the nitrate levels reache down to below 20ppm. This is a gradual process of nitrate reduction.
If you feel that your livestock are hardy enough to withstand larger changes in water parameters, then you can do larger 50% water changes instead, that will cut the nitrate levels by half each time and you can reduce the nitrates much quicker. But do watch that your livestock are still okay with those changes.
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