Reply With QuoteSorry, the last picture can't be seen. Here it is:
https://flic.kr/p/zW1LZS
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Hi everyone! I saw these white spots on my Otto algae eaters! I think it is white spot but not sure. There also seems to be some white speckles on the glass if the Aquarium. Other fish are OK and are behaving normally. Haven't encountered such a situation before so not so sure what to do to teat these fish. Any advice on what medication to give will be greatly appreciated! Thanks a lot!
Images below:
[IMG] https://flic.kr/p/zgJzUZ[IMG]
[IMG]https://flic.kr/p/zW7FpR[IMG]
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Sorry, the last picture can't be seen. Here it is:
https://flic.kr/p/zW1LZS
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Does this make sense: ~Imperfect Past equals future tense~
Can't really see any white spots on the oto... maybe a photo of it from the top will be clearer?
Do the white dots move around? If they are also on the tank glass, they could just be copepods, seed shrimps or limpets.
No, the spots don't seem to move around. The spots are mainly on the Ottos' fins. I have 3 in my tank however two are behaving weirdly while the other one is looking OK. Can I just dose the whole tank just to be safe or will it affect the other tetras I have in the tank?
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Here is a better picture I took after I quarantined them in this small plastic aquarium.
https://flic.kr/p/zW1LZS
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Oops! Wrong one. Here it is:
https://flic.kr/p/ziWmHc
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Yeah, it does look like your otos are experiencing a case of white spot/ich infection.
Just run though the ich treatment procedures, you can look at using anti-parasite solutions like Seachem Paraguard, dose it as per bottle recommendations until the white spots disappear from the fishes, and then carry on dosing for another 1 more week to make sure all the remaining free-swimming ich tomites are killed. Clean water and stable parameters will help the fishes fight the infections and recover faster.
As otos are more sensitive to medications/treatments, therefore its best to start with quarter dose first, then gradually increase to half dose and then to full dose. Observe them closely to see if they have any negative reactions.
Since your otos already got the ich infection in your main tank, you will also need to treat the main tank and all its other fish inhabitants too, as the parasites will still be lurking in there.
My otos has it too. But after a while, it will gone. No affect on their health.
For me, i do WC 10-20% 2 time a week.
Its indeed possible that if your tank conditions are good, healthy fishes can fight off the parasites on their own (it depends alot on their health and immune system)... though its still better to go through a full treatment to ensure the parasite are fully eradicated, otherwise its possible the parasites could still exist in small numbers in the tank (and even still growing in the fishes and in their gills, just not noticeable).
When new fishes are introduced, their initial stress and lowered immunity may allow the established ich parasite population to take advantage and infect them (which is one of the reasons why its more common to see new fishes getting infected). So its more of a precaution to try and eliminate all traces of the ich parasites from a tank whenever possible.
Thanks for all your suggestions! I'm currently doing 1/2 dose with Waterlife Protozin on both quarantine and main Aquarium. However I still want to know if I can dose Medication and Aquarium salt at the same time?
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You'll have to check those medication instructions/user feedback and see if its compatible with other treatments (some may not be compatible)... or just try and see.Originally Posted by happydanio123
Usually its better to just do one form of treatment and avoid mixing multiple treatments, as that could put additional stress on the tank inhabitants.
Do note that otos tend to be more sensitive to salt treatments too, so best to proceed carefully.
Last edited by Urban Aquaria; 26th Oct 2015 at 17:48.
Ok. Thanks a lot for your constructive feedback!Ottos seem a little lerthagic in the quarantine tank however I think they'll pull through! If I want to do a water change, must I re-dose my medication? I know my Ottos will get ammonia poisoning if I don't do one soon. Quarantine tank is only 2.5 litres!!!
Does this make sense: ~Imperfect Past equals future tense~
For most medications, you usually have to re-dose them after a water change... though its best to check the instructions on the particular medication you are currently using to make sure (they may have different recommendations).Ok. Thanks a lot for your constructive feedback!
Try to get a larger quarantine tank, i use those 8 liter plastic tanks and they work much better for hospital/quarantine purposes for small fishes.
Hi guys! The white spot has spread to both my small aquarium and large aquarium cos there was an Otto with white spot in the larger tank. Managed to quarantine him but already the damage had been done...... However my Neon Tetras in the large tank seem as normal as they were. Can see them frolicking about as if nothing ever happened. Can fishes combat the parasite on their own or must I use chemical intervention to rid the White Spot? I'm planning to dose WaterLife Protozin on Saturday after a 50% water change. Hope that everything will be settled by next week and won't have to do another 4-day course of protozin after this one!
Does this make sense: ~Imperfect Past equals future tense~
Its possible for healthy fishes or those with higher resistance to ward off parasite infections... but with white spot/ich, just seeing no spots on those fishes doesn't mean they are not infected, the ich parasite might be in their gills or under the skin and have not flared up as white spots yet.
If anytime you see just one fish in a tank get white spot, assume that the entire tank is already infected and there are free swimming tomites everywhere in the tank, so you have to do tank-wide treatment until the parasites are fully eradicated.
Its usually recommended to prolong the treatments for another week after the last signs of white spot disappear from the fishes, as that will help ensure that any remaining free swimming tomites are also killed.
Yes UA is right just treat both tank. Both are already infected. If you are using chiller turn if off to speed up the parasite life cycle.
I'm currently using WaterLife Protozin on my aquarium. It says on the bottle "not to be used when shrimps are present" however I just did a half dose because I have shrimp. You see I can't win because salt will kill my plants and my Cories so I think this is the best method. Is there any other treatment that is more suitable for shrimp?
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You can try using Seachem Paraguard... its not formalin based and doesn't contain any copper (which will affect shrimps) and is safe for use with majority of lifestock. Doesn't affect the filter bacteria either.
Here is the product link for reference: http://www.seachem.com/Products/prod...ParaGuard.html
Not sure about shrimp, but usually i use ocean free herbal anti internal parasite label as (F3) in the jpg .
http://www.qianhu.com.my/qql/slot/u2193/Products/Aquarium/Ocean%20Free/0075.jpg
Hi guys! Currently using Activated Carbon to remove the Protozin. Should be ready for new med dosage by next week.
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