My first planted tank

[azman_haron]

Thanks. Will look at the hair grass.

Between riccia and fissiden, I like fissiden a lot, but didn't list is in my list as it is classified as an advance level plant. Maybe I can consider fixing it to pebbles as u suggest. Can I glue it instead of tying?

This tank is about 2 weeks old, and has monte carlo and hair grass...eleocharis parvula I think as it is longer... seems similar concept to your tank so you can compare. But its a small 23X19X17 cm so the scale is diffirent from yours:

IMG_1283.jpg

Each has its own attractiveness. I like riccia because when it is pearling, and oxygen bubbles is clinging on, it is one of the most beautiful sight to me. But it does require regular maintenance....trimming and re-tying. Or in my lazy method, when it gets too long and brown at the roots, I squeeze them into a clump with my fingers, and then stick it into cracks and slits. It grows again beautiful despite my less than gentle way of handling it!! It grows in both my 27C chilled tank, my fan cooled tank at 28C and my room temperature tank. Its just that rate of growth is much faster in the cooler tanks.

I can't recall if you are using chiller or not, but my fissiden grows well in my chilled tank at 25C. But when I tried it in my other tank, set at 27C, it just melts. This chiller is spoilt and temperature cannot be adjusted ...Lol. So that is another consideration

As for plant density, I'm planning to plant densely. Is it enough by just planting the hair grass and MC densely? Some articles suggest some fast growing plants, is it safe to start without those fast growing plants?

CO2 30bpm is enough?

I personally like planting densely...it reduces the waiting time for the tank to fill up and reach the stage that I envision it. But it does mean you have to buy more plants from LFS.... and that means that your budget is a consideration.

IMG_1315.jpg

I planted the monte carlo in this tank in individual strands, and very close to each other. And it was really difficult work doing so: when I planted one strand using pincettes, and was removing the pincettes, other adjacent strands i planted a few seconds previously would be dislodged!! And for 2-3 weeks I would wake up to see strands had come loose and were floating around that needed to be replanted. But the results are worth it...except for the long, stringy, irritating, ugly Utricularia gibba that hitch hiked onto the MC!!

So yup...dense planting works for me...but patience, and perseverance is key. I noticed that the initial ones I planted were really close..but they got further and further apart as I went along!!

I play around the CO2 bubbles till I get the right dose for the tank. What is the right dose? I use a drop checker to tell me, but for my 30in tank, it is one bubble per second now, and about double that when I first put in the plants

[kaen130]

Each has its own attractiveness. I like riccia because when it is pearling, and oxygen bubbles is clinging on, it is one of the most beautiful sight to me. But it does require regular maintenance....trimming and re-tying. Or in my lazy method, when it gets too long and brown at the roots, I squeeze them into a clump with my fingers, and then stick it into cracks and slits. It grows again beautiful despite my less than gentle way of handling it!! It grows in both my 27C chilled tank, my fan cooled tank at 28C and my room temperature tank. Its just that rate of growth is much faster in the cooler tanks.

I can't recall if you are using chiller or not, but my fissiden grows well in my chilled tank at 25C. But when I tried it in my other tank, set at 27C, it just melts. This chiller is spoilt and temperature cannot be adjusted ...Lol. So that is another consideration

So I better to give fissiden a miss as I do not have a chiller. Just using a GEX Fan

I planted the monte carlo in this tank in individual strands, and very close to each other. And it was really difficult work doing so: when I planted one strand using pincettes, and was removing the pincettes, other adjacent strands i planted a few seconds previously would be dislodged!! And for 2-3 weeks I would wake up to see strands had come loose and were floating around that needed to be replanted. But the results are worth it...except for the long, stringy, irritating, ugly Utricularia gibba that hitch hiked onto the MC!!

So yup...dense planting works for me...but patience, and perseverance is key. I noticed that the initial ones I planted were really close..but they got further and further apart as I went along!!

I can feel the pain u had been through after reading the other thread by you.

Just wanted to ask, with only planting dense MC, do you experience any algae issue during the cycling stage?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Urban Aquaria]

Thanks. Will look at the hair grass.

Between riccia and fissiden, I like fissiden a lot, but didn't list is in my list as it is classified as an advance level plant. Maybe I can consider fixing it to pebbles as u suggest. Can I glue it instead of tying?

I find fissidens quite easy to grow... only thing is they acclimate slowly and are naturally very slow growers so you need extra patience. Not sure why they are classified as advanced plants though, but in my experience i've managed to grow them in quite a wide variety of conditions, even in outdoor containers with temperatures hitting >32°C.

Here is an example: http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...ject-Fissidens

You could also glue the fissidens on the rocks, but i find that it tends to get abit messy as the cured glue residue will show though the thin delicate moss fronds. If possible, its still better and neater to tie them on (some people also use a hair net to wrap them on), the fissidens will attach to the rock after a few weeks. Do make sure that the rocks you use have rough or porous surfaces to allow the fissidens to grip on securely.

As for plant density, I'm planning to plant densely. Is it enough by just planting the hair grass and MC densely? Some articles suggest some fast growing plants, is it safe to start without those fast growing plants?

You can start without fast growing plants, just have to monitor the initial plant growth and tank condition and regulate the balance of lighting, Co2 and nutrients accordingly.

One method is to add some fast growing floating plants during the initial stages to soak up excess nutrients (though have to be careful not to let the floating plants end up shading the plants below, you'll need to clear them regularly and quickly).

If you have the budget to purchase enough hairgrass and MC to fill the entire substrate surface with plants, that would be the best start up strategy. The sheer mass and density of plants will be able to greatly out-compete algae from the very start. If you watch the ADA gallery tank setup videos on youtube, they literally add so many plants that the tank looks like its already a fully filled-in aquascape from day 1.

Unfortunately for most of us hobby aquascapers, it either costs too much to buy such large quantities of plants or the sellers don't have enough quantity of the plants. So in those cases, just have to spread out the plantlets, plant as much as possible and wait for them to carpet.

CO2 30bpm is enough?

Co2 levels at 30ppm is recommended for a balance of sufficient Co2 for the plants, yet also at safe levels for most aquarium livestock.

But during the initial few weeks of tank cycling and plant grow-out, since there are no livestock in the tank, you can consider injecting more CO2 to achieve higher ppm levels. When matched with more light and nutrients, that can help to boost plant growth rate further and get them to establish faster.

When the tank is cycled and you are adding in livestock, then adjust the Co2 injection back to safe levels.

[azman_haron]

So I better to give fissiden a miss as I do not have a chiller. Just using a GEX Fan


Just wanted to ask, with only planting dense MC, do you experience any algae issue during the cycling stage?

i didn't have any algae problem at all.

I used 6 hours of light at the start. And CO2 at 2 bubbles per second. But I also planted fast growing hydrophila difformis and had some floating Amazon frog its to help absorb excess CO2 to help prevent algae build up. These were removed once the monte carlo started growing and carpeting

[kaen130]

I had did a sketch of my final plans for plants

Attachment 51040
Attachment 51041
A = MC
B = Elecharis Aciclaris 'mini'
C = Posgostemon Erectus
D = Posgostemon Helferi

As I'm traveling in less than 2 weeks time, probably will start after I'm back. Will go look out for the plants first.

As I'm reading further, I am considering DSM since main Flora are carpet plan. Can share is there any challenges and difficulties compared to the conventional method?

I find fissidens quite easy to grow... only thing is they acclimate slowly and are naturally very slow growers so you need extra patience. Not sure why they are classified as advanced plants though, but in my experience i've managed to grow them in quite a wide variety of conditions, even in outdoor containers with temperatures hitting >32°C.

You could also glue the fissidens on the rocks, but i find that it tends to get abit messy as the cured glue residue will show though the thin delicate moss fronds. If possible, its still better and neater to tie them on (some people also use a hair net to wrap them on), the fissidens will attach to the rock after a few weeks. Do make sure that the rocks you use have rough or porous surfaces to allow the fissidens to grip on securely.

Thanks for the tip, will probably try it when I start my next smaller project

One method is to add some fast growing floating plants during the initial stages to soak up excess nutrients (though have to be careful not to let the floating plants end up shading the plants below, you'll need to clear them regularly and quickly).

Co2 levels at 30ppm is recommended for a balance of sufficient Co2 for the plants, yet also at safe levels for most aquarium livestock.

But during the initial few weeks of tank cycling and plant grow-out, since there are no livestock in the tank, you can consider injecting more CO2 to achieve higher ppm levels. When matched with more light and nutrients, that can help to boost plant growth rate further and get them to establish faster.

When the tank is cycled and you are adding in livestock, then adjust the Co2 injection back to safe levels.

i didn't have any algae problem at all.

I used 6 hours of light at the start. And CO2 at 2 bubbles per second. But I also planted fast growing hydrophila difformis and had some floating Amazon frog its to help absorb excess CO2 to help prevent algae build up. These were removed once the monte carlo started growing and carpeting

Ok Will take note of that=)
Will put this floating plant into my shopping list


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Urban Aquaria]

As I'm reading further, I am considering DSM since main Flora are carpet plan. Can share is there any challenges and difficulties compared to the conventional method?

DSM is a great method to grow out most plants initially... most aquarium plants are grown emersed at plant farms anyways, its much easier and faster that way.

You'll just have to ensure that the substrate is kept moist (but not submerged) and the plants are kept hydrated periodically to avoid them drying out. That usually means simply lightly misting the plants regularly on a daily basis. You could also cover the tank to retain humidity but have to remember to allow some air flow in to avoid stagnant conditions, which can often result in mold/fungus growth.

I guess the greatest challenge for most aquarists doing DSM is staring at an empty tank with no water and just plants for a few weeks... some people may get family members and friends constantly asking "eh, why no water and no fishes leh", so it can be very tempting to flood the tank earlier. This method is all about following the process and making sure that all the plants are established and grown out before proceeding with the next step.

[kaen130]

Initial plan was to kick start after coming back from my trip end next week.

Today went to look at some plants and was told that it is possible to start today as long I do my water change daily before my trip and continue after my trip.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1446567540.181929.jpg

A = MC
B = Elecharis Aciclaris 'mini'
C = Posgostemon Erectus (no stock, was recommended Rotala Roduntifolia)
D = Posgostemon Helferi (no stock, was recommended Staurogyne repens)

Let get started!!
The Final Plan

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1446567577.751505.jpg

Decided not to go with DSM. Filling up with a breeder box to break the flow.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1446567594.854156.jpg

Planting started!
First MC in front and center, followed by Elecharis Aciclaris 'mini' at the right and center back.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1446567609.239343.jpg

Attachment 51071

(Continue next post, capped at 5 attachments per post)




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[kaen130]

Then Staurogyne in front of the rocks. A bit disappointed that the leaves of the cultured Staurogyne dropped off almost 80% when I rinsed it in water. It is not very noticeable...

Attachment 51072

Finally, the Rotala Roduntifolia.

Attachment 51073

Flooding continue

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1446567769.744784.jpg

Attachment 51075

Attachment 51076

It is not easy to connect the filter hose to the canister and the lily pipe....not as flexible as I thought...managed to get it fixed (with much sweat) eventually...

Questions
1) Tested CO2 drop checker turns green in about an hour, is this amount ok? I set timer on the solenoid to 2 X 4 hours a day, is it enough?

2) My LED are dimmable, I set to the lowest level and 2 X 3 hours a day, is it ok?

3) I assume no dosing of fert is needed now. I have to wait for how long before I start dosing fert?

4) is this planting consider dense? Do I still need to have some floating plants for cycling?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[milk_vanilla]

if you use ada aqua soil, you probably only need dose K for the first 1-2months and little bit Fe and trace,
I will keep my best due diligence to keep planting those who were uprooted, but sometime i got tired and lazy.

In the health condition tank, they will spread fast and cover the entire soil, you should't be worry too much =)

In co2 injection tank, you can have straight 6-10 hrs period of light, with solenoid turned on 1 hr before the light and 1 hr off before the light off (as your starting point).

[Urban Aquaria]

A quick observation, i noticed the lily pipe outflow you got is the type with downward pointing lily shape (is it the ANS or aquaworld brand ones?), hence the lily shape is not being utilized, so the outflow is just shooting a narrower stream directly down at an angle... the correct ones actually have lily shapes that point parallel or very slightly upwards towards the surface (have a look at the original ADA versions to see the difference), so that the flow of water is spread out by the lily pipe's bottom lip and travels across the top then circulates round to the bottom, it creates a wider flow pattern which covers more areas.

Just something to take note of if you are considering to change to a correct version.

[kaen130]

A quick observation, i noticed the lily pipe outflow you got is the type with downward pointing lily shape (is it the ANS or aquaworld brand ones?), hence the lily shape is not being utilized, so the outflow is just shooting a narrower stream directly down at an angle... the correct ones actually have lily shapes that point parallel or very slightly upwards towards the surface (have a look at the original ADA versions to see the difference), so that the flow of water is spread out by the lily pipe's bottom lip and travels across the top then circulates round to the bottom, it creates a wider flow pattern which covers more areas.

Just something to take note of if you are considering to change to a correct version.

Yes UA, u are very sharp to observe it. I got this lily pipe from a friend, not the 2 brands u mention. And this morning I woke up to a hole at the centre near the front of the tank

Went to Fishy Biz to find, found ANS actually got the correct version, will change it tonight


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[kaen130]

New Lily Pipe is working fine 🏼
Attachment 51091
Attachment 51092

Just did a 50% water change and also changed the pipes.

The leaves of the Staurogyne are dropping off, is it normal? What should I do?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Urban Aquaria]

Yeah, thats the correct output angle for lily pipes... can see that its also able to create the vortex effect too.

The older emersed leaves of the staurogyne repens falling off is quite common during the initial planting and transition period... just trim and remove those melted leaves. New healthy submersed leaves should grow out soon to replace them.

[kaen130]

if you use ada aqua soil, you probably only need dose K for the first 1-2months and little bit Fe and trace,
I will keep my best due diligence to keep planting those who were uprooted, but sometime i got tired and lazy.

In the health condition tank, they will spread fast and cover the entire soil, you should't be worry too much =)

In co2 injection tank, you can have straight 6-10 hrs period of light, with solenoid turned on 1 hr before the light and 1 hr off before the light off (as your starting point).

Oh ok, will switch to straight 6hrs. The LFS where I bought my plants suggested me to break into 2 sessions, probably he is not aware that I have CO2 injection. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[kaen130]

Today is the 5th day

Most of my S.repens had melted =(...by merely touching the stem with a pinsette will break it off....but Thank God someone is had given me
a fresh harvest that is pest and algae free.

After planting the new S.Repens, it is obvious that the leaves of the existing plants are more yellowish... Some MC leaves had melted also and some hair grass turns brown. Only Rotala seems fine.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1446913194.826970.jpg

Attachment 51126

Attachment 51127

Attachment 51128

Attachment 51129

Journal of my 60x45x45 for the last 5 days,
- I have been doing 50% water change (using Seachem Prime to treat tap water)

- keeping temperature to around 28degree with Fan 24/7

- adding some dose of KNO3 liquid, and tiny pinch of K2HPO4 and K2SO4, tiny pinch of CSM+B on alternate days

- Lights 2x3hours (just changed my timer to 6hrs straight tomorrow from 11am to 5pm). This is the lights I'm using http://www.arofanatics.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=532423. Have 8 dim level, using the 3rd level.

- Drop checker lime green during photo period.

Questions
1) what is causing the plant to turn yellowish?

2) should I stop dosing KNO3 liquid since initial cycling will produce Nitrate eventually?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[kaen130]

Attachment 51131

And I observed there is this white thin string appearing some where...is it bad?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Urban Aquaria]

Since the plants were only recently planted, its common for them to shed their older leaves due to the transition period to the new tank environment. Just manually remove the yellow or melting leaves, and new healthy adapted leaves should grow out to replace them soon.

Some plants transition faster than others, so you will tend to see varying effects amongst the plants.

To find out if there is sufficient nitrate in your water column, you'll have to measure it with a test kit, then dose the ferts to hit your target nitrate levels... otherwise its difficult to know if there is enough at startup, as sometimes it could be depleted quickly if the plants are using it actively (especially in a Co2 injected tank with ample lights).

As for the white stringy threads around your plants, those are the beginnings of filamentous algae.

Just use a toothbrush or pincettes to manually remove the algae, or later when the tank is cycled and you introduce shrimps, they will help consume it too.

[leehyeok]

hi will like to enquire where to purchase the csm+b dry fertilizer in singapore? any issues bringing them in if ordered from overseas?

[kaen130]

hi will like to enquire where to purchase the csm+b dry fertilizer in singapore? any issues bringing them in if ordered from overseas?

Hi, I ordered online, via this website.

https://www.bobstropicalplants.com


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[AQMS]

Hi, I ordered online, via this website.

https://www.bobstropicalplants.com


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How much is the shipping cost?