how to dose fert in a Co2less tank

[gregorsamsa]

Hey folks,

i have seen tanks that have stemmed plants (h. "compact", l. arcuata, etc i.e. lorba's tank) doing well without Co2 injection.

i intend to setup a 1 ft cube with 18watts, plants include tenulluss, r. macandra, indica, and some isotetes.

given it is densely planted from the start, how do i dose using LGA. currently for my 2 feet tank, im using 1/4 ts KNO3, grain of PO4 (KH2SO4 form), and 5ml micros 2x a week. from that, can i assume i half the dosage proportionately for the cube?

regards

jiesheng

[barmby]

Hey folks,

i intend to setup a 1 ft cube with 18watts, plants include tenulluss, r. macandra, indica, and some isotetes.

given it is densely planted from the start, how do i dose using LGA. currently for my 2 feet tank, im using 1/4 ts KNO3, grain of PO4 (KH2SO4 form), and 5ml micros 2x a week. from that, can i assume i half the dosage proportionately for the cube?

regards

jiesheng

I will suggest not to dose any LGA at all. It is non-CO2 fertilized tank and I will not add any fertilization in the water column.

I will put more effort in making a fertile substrates, thereby "force" plants to draw nutrients from base.

1)Setup - add as many plants as possible.
2)2 Watt per gal of 6 hrs light (Established tanks will need 8hrs).
3)Weeks later - add alot more algae eaters, like OTO, SAE and Shrimps.

Don't keep any fishes other than algae eaters in the beginning as you want to restrict fertization, and this includes feeding. Also, you force your algae eater to work.

Lastly, leave the tank alone. change water once a month or once in two months. Give the tank 6 to 12 months to boom.

This is how I achieved my Hygrophila polysperma and Sagittaria subulata tank. They look great to me cos they are dwarf yet healthy and not a trace of algae can be found..

[chua]

Hi,

Think you should reconsider r. macandra as its demand is high.

Maybe you want to try r. macandra 'narrow' instead.

It is easier.

[neon]

I will suggest not to dose any LGA at all. It is non-CO2 fertilized tank and I will not add any fertilization in the water column.

I will put more effort in making a fertile substrates, thereby "force" plants to draw nutrients from base.

1)Setup - add as many plants as possible.
2)2 Watt per gal of 6 hrs light (Established tanks will need 8hrs).
3)Weeks later - add alot more algae eaters, like OTO, SAE and Shrimps.

Don't keep any fishes other than algae eaters in the beginning as you want to restrict fertization, and this includes feeding. Also, you force your algae eater to work.

Lastly, leave the tank alone. change water once a month or once in two months. Give the tank 6 to 12 months to boom.

This is how I achieved my Hygrophila polysperma and Sagittaria subulata tank. They look great to me cos they are dwarf yet healthy and not a trace of algae can be found..

Hi,

Care to share the fertile substrate you were doing , is it from commercial package like JBJ, seachem type , or from garden type like peat moss , etc .

Cheers