Reply With Quoteif my No3 is that 80~160ppm, I should have a algae bloom right? I have only 2 OTO munching inside but I dun see algae bloom in my tank
no2 reading is from strips. if I use API its no2-zeroOriginally Posted by Dscheng
if my No3 is that 80~160ppm, I should have a algae bloom right? I have only 2 OTO munching inside but I dun see algae bloom in my tank
my tank that has been running for 9months have high nitrate too. Done lots of water change also can't help. Shrimps did breed then all started to die day by day. do you know how to fix this problem?
looks like we have the same problem. Just checked No3 80ppm. doing a 40% wc and adding BB and monitor again. AM is always 0ppm and so is N02 just high no3
Yes same problem. Hopefully you can fix it
@_@ Maybe ADA soil is too rich for shrimp keeping. Need more fast growing plants to absorb the nutrients. 30+ shrimps in 1ft tank might be too huge for the newly grown BB to handle.
Only can keep doing WC & add more plants to bring down the NO3... Eventually the tank will mature and shrimp will stop dying. You might wanna try adding more aeration during the lights off period.
Does anyone tried seachem stability? I read people from other forum has good experience with it to bring down ammonia and they are able to add livestock in the very early stage without any of them dying
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I use seachem stability when I start my new shrimp planted tank. It still a takes one month to really fully cycle the tank. IMHO.
I think product like seachem stability is more of relief from NH3/NO2 poisoning than speed up the cycle.
hehehe. I nvr dump 30+ shrimps in one go. its was 10, 5,5,10,5 until I lost them all. I also have the itchy hand syndrome. Plants have been removed and some added since then because I think the easier ones are not suitable. ADA soil was used bcos it was supposed to be a planted tank with C02. Abt to cycled finished it started to steer into planted shrimp tank. I added air stone 24/7 into the tank as I also have 2 smaller tanks using that O2 as life support. TDS from tap is almost 165. Main tank is almost 295. Will take some readings later
just checked. N03-80ppm. GH107ppm, KH 35.9ppm (API drip test). Strips tests PH5,5, KH0ppm,GH75ppm,TC0,No2 0ppm and no3 20ppm. Yday added some additive to lower No3. Will check this fri and see.Most day I need to top up 1L of left over night anti Chlorine water.
GH is one of the most important factor to keep shrimps alive. Your GH is over shot, PH too low for Neo to survive as well. The ammonia cycle is not yet complete. Co2 injection will cause PH to fluctuate, thus it is very difficult to maintain a healthy shrimp tank.
To maintain a healthy planted shrimp tank is one of the highest difficulty level, I suggest you learn from the beginning, stop your co2, use distilled water, keep the water cool, do weekly water change, finish your cycling. Until you can breed the neos then consider doing co2 injection.
By the way Neo is consider easy compare to Caridina. So don't go and buy crs family for now.
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Oh... If that is the case it shouldn't be overcrowded problem. Might be cycle problem. It also a good idea to measure the parameter on the next morning/hours after introducing live stock. I experienced NO2 spikes before after introducing live stocks. Also try not to adjust your tank too much during or just after the cycle, it will cause spikes. Best to measure the parameter hours later after you have did the adjustment. BB will also grow on plants etc.. so removing them = removing the bacteria. Plants need time to acclimate and start growing. XD I learn this the hard way.
One thing still puzzle me is cycling with plants or without plants. Plants and bacteria have the same source of food, so most likely they will compete? Let say cycle with plant, will the bacteria grow slower due to the competition during the photo period? Then when lights off, plants stop absorbing the nutrients and there will be a spike?? I tried once cycling the soil for 3-4 weeks then week 5-6 start adding plants and shrimp. Non died. I only tried this once so can't prove anything. XD
XD Not a fan of TDS meter. But I think TDS 165 for tap water is pretty high? Your tank TDS is 295ppm but your GH is 75ppm?? It means your tank contain too many others minerals or inorganic substances. GH should be 2/3 or more of the TDS as tap water mainly contain of Calcium & Magnesium. Did you calibrate the tds meter? Did you dose fert?
I have a planted with co2, ada fert tank that's seeing some hope recently. However, the tank is about 8-9months running. I'm using bottled distilled water and TDS around 200-220, ph around 6, all other parameter non detectable, for the first time spotted neos shrimplets and now another two are berried. The last thing I did was adjusting GH to 5-6 by using saltyshrimp gh+, and bw liquid mineral (label state helps to molt). I keep losing shrimps prior to focusing on GH, my TDS is on the high side, probably due to the ferts and co2. I can't say for sure what's the primarily contributing factor but my money is on GH for now, as I added lots of supplements. Got to observe it for a few more months to be able to tell if the colony grows steadily.
Another fact to note for planted shrimp tank is that you must be able to live with shrimps of varies quality as it's heck of a challenge to do selective breeding and culling.
I been cycling for almost 2 months. I misread the GH and added BW mineral rock which I removed recently that's why I suspect its still high
Itchy hand syndrome- I removed some plants after cycling because I find the plants hide too many dead shrimps until I cant see. Add and remove and adjust to try to encounter the death. TDS is newly purchased so I assumed it should be calibrated.I used to dose BB, plant fert (stopped) and mineral for the shrimp to molt (stopped- because shrimp all died) I also bought a distilled water to add.I also nvr feed food for the shrimps
My challenge is keeping them alive! I not a breeder now just want a planted tank with lots of shrimps swimming around
Hmm... if that is the case and tds meter in good condition. Probably the high TDS due other minerals/salts which you need to beware of. I think for now try not to adjust too much and let nature take its course. Try to keep the parameter stable.
Yday I tested the bottle of distilled water (TDS 6) before added Anti Chlorine and top up the tank. Tday I added Tetra aqua safe anti chlorine and tested the distilled water but its over 100+tds. Think will try RO water to see if any improvement. Tank is still abt 275 TDS
You don't need to add anti chlorine for distilled water, it will only increase TDS without serving any purpose.
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