Yeah, most of the anubias sold at LFS are in emersed form... the older leaves will eventually melt and new adapted submerged leaves will grow to replace them.
Just cut off all the melting leaves, even if all the leaves are gone and only left the healthy rhizome its still okay, that will encourage the plant to grow more new leaves.
My tank updates
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The photo was taken with a hand phone, the photo is not really very clear and crisps![]()
Anyone know what plant is it ? It as labeled as wendtii when I bought it, but I check on line it seems incorrect. Btw I am referring to the plant which the shrimp is resting on
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If you just bought it recently, the emersed leaves will be quite different from the submersed leaves... so wait until the submersed leaves grow out then you will see its actual variant.
Just do a google search on "cryptocoryne wendtii" and "cryptocoryne wendtii emersed", compare both sets of google images and you'll see the difference in their leaf forms.![]()
Indeed the shape of the leaves looks different![]()
My Christmas moss is growing well & pearling
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Due to itchy fingers, I bought a chiller off a reefer. Hailea 66a used on a 2 ft tank coupled with a ehiiem 2217.
Some observations, during the initial fast ramp down of temp, is it common to see some water leaking out of the unit?, I opened up to inspect inside and it seems to be from the cooling chamber that are wrapped by the black rubber. Are these condensation because I manage to drop from 29C to 24C in less than 2 hours . I didn't detect any leak at the joins or expose area.
next is my tank temp and the Hailea readings, I see a difference of 2 degree. Tank 25C, Hailea 23C My outlet from chiller goes straight into the tank.
Sounds like condensation... i guess if you notice alot more water dripping out constantly then have to check the waterproofing.
To mitigate the difference in temperature readings, you can DIY mod an external temperature probe from the chiller to the tank, so that the chiller operates based on the actual tank water temperature in real-time (rather than its internal temperature sensor). Just do a search to find the how-to mod guides for your particular chiller brand and model.
Thank you. Anyway, it's confirm a leak and I returned the chiller to the nice reefer.
i bought a new Hailea HS-28. It's quite amazing, my mini jap hair grass was in m tank for 5 days and there was hardly any growth. With the chiller for 1 day and I can notice the hair grass is actual getting denser. I am amazed.
the Hailea chiller allows me to calibrate it to my tank temperature. The only challenge I have is the damn thermometer. I doubt my ista digital thermometer is give out the right reading.
i went to sea view and check out the analog and digital thermometer, even with the same brand and same model, all analog and digital thermometer have as much as 2 degrees difference in reading...". Smh.
Do you know what brand of thermometer are calibrated reading out of factory?
Yeah, those analog and digital thermometers sold at LFS do tend to have a 1-2 degree variation in their read outs... its one of the reasons why some people see their tank thermometer show 31°C and start to panic but actually its 29°C, while another chap says his tank can hit 25°C with just an aquarium fan but actually its 27°C. So those thermometers can be a source of false alarm or info.
What i do with any new thermometers i get is to "calibrate" them using the ice cubes method. As most of those basic aquarium thermometers we get from LFS don't have temperature calibration features, i just write any significant temp differences on masking tape and paste it on the thermometer.
Here is a good example of DIY calibration using ice cubes method by Navanod: http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...er-and-chiller
Thank you, I will likely buy from Tao Bao a temperature controller and use it to monitor my temperature and calibrate it as you have suggested.
Would also use the temp controller to turn on external exhaust fan when my chiller kicks in
Just bought an external co2 reactor from Ista. Amazing stuff, just running my Co2 at 1bps my plants as bubbling like crazy![]()
Cryptocorynes do also exhibit melting and shedding of their leaves when introducted to new tank environment too... its commonly referred to as "crypt melt". Thats one of the ways crypts adapt to changing conditions.
Just trim off all the melting/rotting leaves, if the rhizome is healthy it will adapt and start growing new healthy leaves after a while.
Well great.... Trimmed off all my wendtii leaves, hopefully, they will re-grow. My Repens is melting too. I hate plants that are grew emmersed. The next plant I buy got to be grew immersed !!
the rest of my plants that are grew immersed are doing great
was as trying to find a holder for my lily pipe. Couldn't find any so I went to Daiso to look for some diy stuff and I found this. Spring loaded and now my lily pipe is height adjustable
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Need some suggestion. My foreground plant is creeping and it's getting dense . I feed my tetra floating flakes, and I feed my cories sinking waffle. Most of my waffle will fall between the MC and hair grass...how do you guys overcome this?
Yeah, thats one of the reasons why most aquascapers with tanks that have carpet plants tend not to keep corydoras fishes. Its tough to cater to their bottom feeding behaviour without end up with alot of excess food stuck inside the carpet.
But there are some options which could help...
Option 1:
You can look at using an acrylic feeding tube and dish setup, its designed for shrimps but fishes will also feed from it. It looks like this:
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Photo from Google Images.
You can get them from most good LFS or from online aquarium stores/sellers.
This is an example from one of my previous tanks... i just used only the acrylic dish and stuck it to the glass with a suction cup:
Some of food will still get kicked out and drop into the carpet plants though, but at least it helps to reduce the amount of lost food.
Option 2:
Remove a section of the carpet plants in front and put a sand bank in place so that the corydoras fishes have an area of their own to sift through and you can drop food there for them to feed. Excess food will stay on top of the sand so its easy to clear if there are still leftovers.
Here is an example of a nice aquascape that incorporates a sandy portion in the foreground:
Photo from Google Images.
Hope some of the suggestions help!![]()
Great. Thank you. I went for the dish and feeder pipe method.
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