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should work... main thing is not to have the fishes to stress the shrimps..
I will add Otos first, and then add shrimps, for reason being they help clean up the diatom and plant waste and algae. It's a good fit as the plants are growing and evolving, you'll need all the help you can get. As mentioned, you'll want to adjust CO2 with all livestocks in mind, doesn't matter if shrimps goes in now or later, you'll need to adjust accordingly at any stage.
If Otos survives, all other critters should do well. Just make sure your tank is cycled (NH3 = 0, NO2 = 0, NO3 = low), CO2 is easier to correct than the N-cycle.
Rasboras or any other fishes are just aesthetics, in fact they produce more waste in your tank! I won't bother taking them out midway, too much work and adds complexity. Keep it simple, don't overthink it. Enjoy it!
should work... main thing is not to have the fishes to stress the shrimps..
Damn... I really wanted to get the Espei Rasboras today... EO sells fire reds at about 10 for $10. Anywhere else can get this prices?
I've never bought shrimps from EO before, but I do know they allow you to choose from the tank. 1 = $1 seems like a good buy, and choose the best specimens possible.
I'll advise against buying pre-packed shrimps from places like Seaview, they are not necessarily cheaper and the mortality rate is quite high since the shrimps are stressed from being kept in the packs.
Watch out for diseases, ask shrimps experts for tips.
What about rummy nose? They swim in shoal I notice. Just that they swim very fast compared to other fish. Very nice if the tank is big.
Hmmm any idea what should I be looking out for other than berried ones? HAHAOriginally Posted by Ivan Choo
I don't really like the colour of the rummy nose... I prefer a deep dark colour or a really bright colour!
I love rummy nose, IMO they are the best schoolers. Look at the way they school in @UA's tank.
Problem is they grow big, not a good fit in a 2 ft.
Oh ya!! Does it matter that I don't even know the TDS of my water??
Should I just add the shrimps and pray for the best or get a TDS pen first?
Alright so... I didn't manage to buy shrimps cuz East Ocean closes at 8pm. But I did buy 3 Otos from Aquatic Avenue and the bro there was really nice
I've been running an air stone in my tank cuz my drop checker still shows yellow even though I've already lowered the CO2 bps to 1 every 3 seconds.
I was happily waiting for my Otos to acclimate and telling my friend that I've prepared algae in my tank for the Otos until... He told me the algae in my tank is BBA and Otos don't eat BBA....
Now I have an algae issue... I read on another thread that the amount of Dissolved Organic in the water is the main reason for the BBA and so this Saturday I'll do a major cleaning of my canister and pluck off all the leaves that has BBA on them. I'm also considering getting Excel so I can do some spot treatment on those BBA on my rocks.
Will I be able to increase the flow rate of my canister by removing some of the filter media? (The canister outlet is connected to my co2 reactor)
I already have a school of 30 rummy nose, I am transferring them from my 2 ft to another 4ft tank. Is it possible to have another species of schooling fish other than my rummy nose? Will it looks weird? Anyone tried it before?
Nope it won't! I used to have a 4ft with 50 neon tetras, 50 balloon tetras (they school super tightly).
It's nice to have 2 different schools of fishes!
Thank you Ryan, still considering what fish to add.
stumble across a "fish-in" cycle process. I have being doing it for more than a decade from keeping high grade Japan ranchu to high grade arowana. I normally put in fishes by 2nd or 3 day once the sand and soil settled. For non planted tank, once the water is filled, water conditioner added, my fish is in. So far never had a problem. Please note, I have solid filter system and spend a lot on bacteria.
The article is a good read, it's is just like the way I did it.
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums...de-176446.html
Update:
I decided to clean my filter last Saturday hoping to increase the flow rate of my canister to help fight the BBA. I have also decreased my CO2 to the point of around 1 bubble every 3 secs.
Most of the BBA came off easily when I did a water change and siphoned the BBA out. I also tilted my lily pipe towards the glass to create better flow.
Today, I bought 10 Galaxy Rasbora (Celestial Pearl Danio)! I got them at Aquatic Avenue and I picked every single one of them by myself. Got around 3 Males and 7 Females.
The photo isn't very clear cuz they swim really fast and their colours seem a little pale probably cuz they're all stressed out!
I'm also getting an Eheim 2215 tomorrow and gonna flood my Iwagumi tank tomorrow!
Update!
I flooded my iwagumi tank yesterday after installing my new Eheim 2215 (2nd hand).
As you can see..... My dry start method failed horribly......
I've also added 5 Harlequin Rasboras today, also from Aquatic Avenue!
My current tank stocking:
10 Galaxy Rasboras (CPDs)
5 Harlequin Rasboras
7 Fire Red shrimps (3 died)
3 Otos
I'll be adding 5 Espei Rasboras into my tank next week and maybe a few more shrimps once in awhile and then I'm done with it!
Just a quick question, i feel like my plants are not growing fast enough so I'm looking to actually blast my lights for 10hrs or more and on my co2 for the same period just one hour earlier.
Any suggestions on how much should I increase my ferts dosing or are there anyone with such long photo period care to share their experience with me before I attempt?
Hi Ryan. You use customized LED light right? What is the power of your lighting?
I don't know if the light intensity is enough in your case.
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It's 3 x 12w LED. 2 Cool white and 1 Warm white. I usually turn it to around 80% only so that its around 30w.
I see. I use Up Aqua Z series, 30x0.5W is actually less power than yours I guess. But I think its intensity is very good, that might be the factor that the plants grow very well since all CO2 can be convert to energy for plants efficiently.
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Hmmm it could be my flowrate? I tested it last night with the external reactor to my canister, it's only about less than 250l/hr (I tested using a stopwatch and a 1litre measuring cup)
Maybe I'll take some close up photos of my monte carlos and can some of the pros please take a look to see if there's any signs of deficiency?
Also, if anyone has long photo period hours (more than 10hrs), do share your experience with me and how did you come about adjusting the ferts dosing too!
Oh and just to update my current dosing regime:
Tropica Specialised Fertiliser:
1.2ml/day
Tropica Premium Fertiliser: 1.2ml/day
Seachem Potassium: 3ml/day
I doubt it's your fert regime. Could be your light intensity and light duration. I think your tank will grow well if you plant hair grass which require lesser light and but CO2 is essential for faster growth.
is your MC creeping well or is it growing upwards? If it is growing upwards, it indicates a lack of light peneration.
i usually blast my light 12-15hrs with high dosage of CO2 during the initial stage, fishes behaviors are my indicator on CO2 dosage. As long as they are not at the surface grasping for air, I leave the CO2 level alone.
even if the fish grasp for air, you can lift up the lily pipe to create turbulence to water surface and that usually helps to dissolve more oxygen and fish will recover and behave normally.
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