Starting up a aquarium

[Mr TZY]

Hello guys! i am a newbie in this. Wanted to pick up a new hobby for the new year.
My idea is to set up a 2ft x 1 x 1 for a start with low tech setup without co2 injection.
I am looking at carpet landscape with minimum plants for a start

I love the idea of carpet landscape but is the classica natural gravel ideal for growing this? I gotten this from my friend so was wondering if its okay for me to grow on it. If so what are the soil suitable for me?

Secondly, what is the type of lighting required for this? The LFS recommend to use T5 instead for this. So what are the recommended model and watts required?

Lastly, what plants are suitable to be grown on drift wood.

Thanks and appreciate your replies

[Urban Aquaria]

Based on your intended setup with carpet plants, it would be best to use active aquasoil with good nutrient content and which conditions the water to help support and boost the growth of the carpet plants. Inert gravel substrates could also be used, but you then need to add fertilizer tablets into the gravel and/or dose additional fertilizers to provide sufficient nutrients to the plants, which are extra steps to do.

The most popular tried and tested aquasoil so far for planted tanks and aquascapes is ADA Amazonia aquasoil, you can look into getting that for the substrate. For a 2ft tank, a standard 9L bag of ADA Amazonia aquasoil will be sufficient.

For a low-tech setup without Co2 injection, you can consider Micranthemum 'Monte Carlo', it is a good carpet plant that can still grow well even in low-tech tank environments. Do note that without Co2 injection, overall plant growth will naturally be slower due to the limitation in carbon availability, so you'll need to wait much longer for the plants to grow out.

As for lights, T5 lights would be suitable (usually in the 24W-48W range for 2ft tanks), but you can also consider using LED lights too, nowadays its more common for most people to go for LED lights... LED lights consume less power, generate alot less heat and have much longer lifespan, so they save on electricity/replacement costs and help to maintain lower temperature in and around the tank (they also have much slimmer and more compact light casing designs too, not as bulky as T5 lights). You can look at the Top Aqua or Up Aqua brands for basic LED lights that would be suitable for 2ft tanks (15W-20W range).

Popular plants that are suitable to be tied and grown on driftwood would be plants like anubias, java ferns, moss etc.

There are many other types of plants that can be grown on objects too, here are some useful links at the Tropica website:

http://tropica.com/en/plants/aquadecor/bogwood/

http://tropica.com/en/plants/aquadecor/decorrock/

[Mr TZY]

Based on your intended setup with carpet plants, it would be best to use active aquasoil with good nutrient content and which conditions the water to help support and boost the growth of the carpet plants. Inert gravel substrates could also be used, but you then need to add fertilizer tablets into the gravel and/or dose additional fertilizers to provide sufficient nutrients to the plants, which are extra steps to do.

The most popular tried and tested aquasoil so far for planted tanks and aquascapes is ADA Amazonia aquasoil, you can look into getting that for the substrate. For a 2ft tank, a standard 9L bag of ADA Amazonia aquasoil will be sufficient.

For a low-tech setup without Co2 injection, you can consider Micranthemum 'Monte Carlo', it is a good carpet plant that can still grow well even in low-tech tank environments. Do note that without Co2 injection, overall plant growth will naturally be slower due to the limitation in carbon availability, so you'll need to wait much longer for the plants to grow out.

As for lights, T5 lights would be suitable (usually in the 24W-48W range for 2ft tanks), but you can also consider using LED lights too, nowadays its more common for most people to go for LED lights... LED lights consume less power, generate alot less heat and have much longer lifespan, so they save on electricity/replacement costs and help to maintain lower temperature in and around the tank (they also have much slimmer and more compact light casing designs too, not as bulky as T5 lights). You can look at the Top Aqua or Up Aqua brands for basic LED lights that would be suitable for 2ft tanks (15W-20W range).

Popular plants that are suitable to be tied and grown on driftwood would be plants like anubias, java ferns, moss etc.

There are many other types of plants that can be grown on objects too, here are some useful links at the Tropica website:

http://tropica.com/en/plants/aquadecor/bogwood/

http://tropica.com/en/plants/aquadecor/decorrock/

Thanks a lot for the information. It does help me a lot.

So i guess you need lesser (15W- 20W) for LED as compared to T5 ( 24W-48W). Why is this so? What about the pricing?

IN addition, I saw online there are people selling those seed for carpeting and was told it was pretty easy to be grown and at a faster rate. So am wondering if this is feasible and will it last in the long run?

[Urban Aquaria]

Thanks a lot for the information. It does help me a lot.

So i guess you need lesser (15W- 20W) for LED as compared to T5 ( 24W-48W). Why is this so? What about the pricing?

Well, most of the energy consumed by T5 lights is wasted as heat (thats why you will burn your fingers if you accidentally touch a light tube even when its on for just a few minutes) and the light it produces is omni-directional, that means in an aquarium T5 light set half the light shines upwards, so it needs to be reflected back downwards into the aquarium using built-in reflective covers, which further reduces its overall efficiency. Both of these factors contribute to its higher power consumption. Average pricing for a basic 2ft T5 lightset usually ranges between S$30-$40 (depending on brand and quality, some can cost alot more or less). They generally cost less than LED lightsets, but you do need to remember to buy and change the T5 light tubes every 9-12 months as its light intensity degrades more quickly overtime, which is an additional running cost.

On the other-hand, by virtue of LED technology, LED lights generally produce much less heat (you can usually still touch a basic LED when its on without burning your fingers) and the light they produce is directional. In the case of an aquarium LED light, it points downwards directly into the aquarium where its needed, not wasting extra energy powering light in other directions that is not required. Hence that allows LED lights to be more power efficient. Average pricing for a basic 2ft LED lightset usually ranges between S$40-$70 (again it also depending on brand and quality, some can cost alot more or less). They do cost abit more than T5 lightsets initially, but the LEDs can last up to 10x longer than T5 tubes, so you can use the LED lights for 5-10 years without replacement, which saves on running costs.

IN addition, I saw online there are people selling those seed for carpeting and was told it was pretty easy to be grown and at a faster rate. So am wondering if this is feasible and will it last in the long run?

Those are a relatively new type of plants that people are currently trying out... i'm also testing out a batch see how long they last in a submerged tank environment. Those plants are indeed easy to grow out, but we haven't seen any long-term reviews on them yet. I guess we just have to wait over the next few months to get feedback/experience from those who keep these plants over a longer period of time.

[barmby]

To answer - what do you want? low tech setup without co2 injection? carpet landscape? carpet landscape means going high tech set up. only few people I know could do that and they are really well known in this area

[tetrakid]

Aquascaping is a very involved hobby different from fish keeping. It requires considerable knowledge and experience to be successful. It is better to concentrate on fishkeeping and decorate the tank with some common hardy plants.

[Mr TZY]

Well, most of the energy consumed by T5 lights is wasted as heat (thats why you will burn your fingers if you accidentally touch a light tube even when its on for just a few minutes) and the light it produces is omni-directional, that means in an aquarium T5 light set half the light shines upwards, so it needs to be reflected back downwards into the aquarium using built-in reflective covers, which further reduces its overall efficiency. Both of these factors contribute to its higher power consumption. Average pricing for a basic 2ft T5 lightset usually ranges between S$30-$40 (depending on brand and quality, some can cost alot more or less). They generally cost less than LED lightsets, but you do need to remember to buy and change the T5 light tubes every 9-12 months as its light intensity degrades more quickly overtime, which is an additional running cost.

On the other-hand, by virtue of LED technology, LED lights generally produce much less heat (you can usually still touch a basic LED when its on without burning your fingers) and the light they produce is directional. In the case of an aquarium LED light, it points downwards directly into the aquarium where its needed, not wasting extra energy powering light in other directions that is not required. Hence that allows LED lights to be more power efficient. Average pricing for a basic 2ft LED lightset usually ranges between S$40-$70 (again it also depending on brand and quality, some can cost alot more or less). They do cost abit more than T5 lightsets initially, but the LEDs can last up to 10x longer than T5 tubes, so you can use the LED lights for 5-10 years without replacement, which saves on running costs.




Those are a relatively new type of plants that people are currently trying out... i'm also testing out a batch see how long they last in a submerged tank environment. Those plants are indeed easy to grow out, but we haven't seen any long-term reviews on them yet. I guess we just have to wait over the next few months to get feedback/experience from those who keep these plants over a longer period of time.

Thanks all for the advice . Not going to be ambitious. Just a simple carpet with some rocks for a newbie like me. So what external filter to be use? Is shiruba x303 external filter of 320/l suitable for me set up of 2x1x1? Simple Carpet with some moss completed with some small to medium fishes?

[Urban Aquaria]

Thanks all for the advice . Not going to be ambitious. Just a simple carpet with some rocks for a newbie like me. So what external filter to be use? Is shiruba x303 external filter of 320/l suitable for me set up of 2x1x1? Simple Carpet with some moss completed with some small to medium fishes?

Consider going for the larger Shiruba XB-305... it has a larger filter volume to hold more bio-media and a higher 440l/ph flow rate for better circulation. You can purchase a single or double tap to install on the outflow hose to adjust the flow rate if necessary.

[Mr TZY]

Thanks for the reply,

Was thinking doing a tree like with moss. which one is more suitable mini pelia or fissiden? I am using a low tech tank.

So do advise according to ease of attachement to the tree,growth rate, suitability in my tank condition and maintences

thanks

[Urban Aquaria]

For low-tech tank without chiller, fissidens would generally be easier to grow and maintain.

The other alternative is christmas moss or weeping moss, they grow faster and create more moss volume, so you can trim and shape them into a dense tree top look.

[Mr TZY]

Thank!
I have some question about dry start using carpet seed or using hc. I have read through your blog. And I have got some question for you. since mine is a new tank. So there will be a need for cycling .

some suggest to add in the bacterial starter together with the soil before dry starting. Is that an advise able steps? If so what should I do to proceed with my cycling after dry start. It will be good to list any chemical required thanks

[Urban Aquaria]

Thank!
I have some question about dry start using carpet seed or using hc. I have read through your blog. And I have got some question for you. since mine is a new tank. So there will be a need for cycling .

some suggest to add in the bacterial starter together with the soil before dry starting. Is that an advise able steps? If so what should I do to proceed with my cycling after dry start. It will be good to list any chemical required thanks

Well, while adding those bacteria starter products can help to a certain extent... all tanks will naturally cycle on their own anyways, the various beneficial bacteria species that maintain a cycle are naturally present everywhere, so its not actually necessary to add bacteria products to cycle a tank (but usually no harm if you do either). Most people just let the tank and filter run with an ammonia source and the beneficial bacteria will grow and multiply on their own, it just takes time and patience.

So far, i not used any bacteria starter products as all my tanks are cycled naturally.

[Mr TZY]

Most people just let the tank and filter run with an ammonia source and the beneficial bacteria will grow and multiply on their own, it just takes time and patience.
Q: what you mean of ammonia source is DSM?

okay! so if i decided to add in those bacteria starter in powder form before my DSM on monte carlo.

Once the carpet are ready to be fill with water. What should be the next step of action? do note it is a low tech tank
prime on those tap water followed by? should i add in any fertilizer?

[barmby]

no fertilizer at all but fertile bottom. moss need not fertilize unless enforced CO2 is present. low tech tank means one will probably feed only once couple days. let the tank sit and develop very slowly. it could take 6-10 months to see the fruits of love. Algae is almost grow very slowly too and it will be manageable.

[Urban Aquaria]

Most people just let the tank and filter run with an ammonia source and the beneficial bacteria will grow and multiply on their own, it just takes time and patience.
Q: what you mean of ammonia source is DSM?

okay! so if i decided to add in those bacteria starter in powder form before my DSM on monte carlo.

Once the carpet are ready to be fill with water. What should be the next step of action? do note it is a low tech tank
prime on those tap water followed by? should i add in any fertilizer?

If you are using active soil substrate like ADA Amazonia aquasoil, there will already be plenty of ammonia released by the soil to grow the plants and beneficial bacterial.

When you do DSM, beneficial bacterial will also be growing and multiplying in the soil itself (bacteria doesn't just grow in the filter, they grow everywhere in the tank and substrate too), so there will be some cycling activity during the DSM process.

Once your plant carpet is grown out and you flood the tank (make sure the incoming water is dechlorinated before use), let it run with the filter for a few days and test the water parameters, if the ammonia and nitrite levels are still showing, then the tank is still cycling. Let it run until your tests find consistent readings of zero ammonia and nitrite, and only nitrate. Then your tank can be considered cycled and you can start to gradually add in livestock.

Depending on the plant growth rate and condition, its always good to dose fertilizers to support their continued growth, as the nutrients in the soil will be depleted eventually. Most people usually start dosing potassium (K) and micro/trace ferts at the start as those tend to be depleted quickly, then at later stages also dose nitrates (N) and phosphates (P) if necessary to maintain healthy plant growth. Its all a matter of monitoring the plants and dosing a balance of macro and micro nutrients accordingly.

[Mr TZY]

no fertilizer at all but fertile bottom. moss need not fertilize unless enforced CO2 is present. low tech tank means one will probably feed only once couple days. let the tank sit and develop very slowly. it could take 6-10 months to see the fruits of love. Algae is almost grow very slowly too and it will be manageable.

okay thanks for the information. let me begin and ask around should i encounter anything

[barmby]

The Walstad method by Diana Walstad might be what you are looking for.

my take is low tech tank requires the owner to leave the tank alone to a certain extend.

[Mr TZY]

looking for a canister filter that is less than $100.

Would like to know if atman 1000 has self priming? cant find any information online

[Mr TZY]

Gotten this layout of medium from my Atman. Is it the correct way of putting them in sequence? Thanks

[barmby]

The last will be fine layer so that it doesn't get clog in the beginning.