Hi, any shrimp experts here can help me with a question?
Is it possible for a shrimp to have a saddle and bears eggs at the same time?
I thought I was one like that chilling out in the open when I was doing some maintenances. It went into hiding before I could snap a picture. Had me wondering if I'm just seeing things......
It's possible... usually it's either still in the process of generating more eggs from the saddle, or the eggs are almost going to hatch so a new saddle is forming up to prepare for the next round of mating.
I guess you can see this process more clearly due to keeping rili shrimps, their transparent sections allow you to see the saddle throughout the breeding cycle.
Thanks UA for the clarification.
I thought it was a super rare queen shrimp or something lol
Guess not.
Hi guys I need help,
5 of my green neon is infected with ich.
Just discovered it, about 2-4 cysts on per infected fish.
I tried googleing on the treatment but is rather confusing.
It includes raising temperature, medication and uv. Not sure which is suitable for me.
Any bros with experiences can point me to the right direction?
if possible, catch them out and put in hospital tank, add salt and Methylene blue should recover in a week time
They probably need to stay in the hospital tank for some time until they are fully recovered. It is important not to overdose the meth and salt, just sufficient to kill the microorganism that cause the Ich symptom, otherwise it will injure the sickly fish further. The main tank also needs to be checked for infestation too. Keep a close watch on every fish for any symptoms.
I always feel very pekchek when any of my fish have any sign of disease. I usually discard them as I do not have the time to do any treatment.
Last edited by tetrakid; 13th Feb 2017 at 19:27.
LIFE IS UNBEARABLE WITHOUT A FISH TANK!!!
@tetrakid, fireblade,
I currently do not have the necessary equipment to set up a hospital tank, is there a way that I can treat it in the main tank?
Once your fishes exhibit ich white spots in the main tank, the parasites are already in free swimming form in the tank... no point transferring them out to a hospital tank, its too late for that. You have to treat the entire tank in order to fully eliminate all the parasites, otherwise your existing fishes and all future fishes will still encounter the same ich parasites again and again.
You can try the increased heat method to speed up the ich lifecycle and combine it with salt treatment to try and kill off the free swimming ich trophonts.
Tetras tend to be sensitive to salt though, so have to be more careful. If they exhibit issues, be ready to do water changes to reverse the effects. Some plants also don't fare so well with salt treatments too.
The other alternative is to use commercial ich treatments and medications. There are many different types on the market so you can check them out.
Personally i quarantine all my new fishes in separate holding tanks and whenever i find a batch exhibiting ich problems, i treat the tank using Seachem Paraguard. So far it's mild enough towards all fishes, yet it can successfully treat the ich issue. I basically dose according to recommended dosage daily until all the visible white spots are gone (usually takes around 1-2 weeks), then continue dosing daily for another additional week to kill off all the remaining free swimming trophonts.
Some info: http://www.seachem.com/paraguard.php
In your case, you will have to treat the entire main tank with the solution.
Last edited by Urban Aquaria; 13th Feb 2017 at 22:34.
@urban aquaria,
UA, thanks for replying. However a new set of ''problems'' arise and I would need your further guidance.
I just discovered that there are shrimplets all over the carpet. Apparently one of my berried shrimp had decided to give birth in time of chaos. Most of my female shrimps are berried, I would be expecting more to come in this few weeks.
Given the situation on hand, what would you suggest the best way to handle it to prevent any possible casualties?
I've been thinking of slowly ramping up the temperature to 30°c to speed up the cycle to the tomont stage, then reinstalling the uv sterilizer I had on hand to kill off the floating parasites. Do you think that will work?
Yeah, it can be more challenging to treat a tank with shrimps and shrimplets in it... just have to be more careful with dosing medications or change the water conditions (ie. increase temps, dosing salts etc).
Paraguard mentions to remove all inverts before treatment (they don't market it as shrimp-safe), though in my case i have treated tanks with shrimps and all of them were okay and still breed. I actually use concentrated salt dips + paraguard to treat batches of new shrimps i get which exhibit shrimp parasites (ie. scutariella japonica, vorticella, Ellobiopsis sp. etc). Nowadays parasites are also very common in store-bought shrimps.
Your experience using the medications may vary though, as every tank setup is different, so there are always degrees of risks involved whenever doing treatments.
In theory, UV sterilizers should help to kill many of the thousands of free swimming theronts that get released by the encrusted tomonts... but those that manage to linger at deadspots or in the substrate will still escape being killed by the UV, so a percentage may still tend to stay in the tank long enough to re-infect the fishes. I have experienced using an inline UV sterilizer in one of my previous QT tanks before, but the infected fishes still had ich for many weeks. Most died off, while a few survivors seemingly recovered on their own, then somehow the ich flared up again weeks later, so it seems the ich were never fully eradicated (not sure if ich requires more powerful UV equipment or special UV setups to treat effectively). Only after i dosed medications then the ich parasites were fully eliminated, and never returned again.
I guess you could try various methods and see which work well for your particular setup.
As a fishkeeping enthusiast, I can tell you that treating fish disease can form a major portion of the hobby. And also the most pekchek and demoralising.
@urban aquaria,
UA, thanks for sharing your experiences with us.
With a better understanding of the current situation, I'm more confident on how to handle it.
I'm going the raise the temperature slowing to 30°C this few days to speed up the ich cycle.
I will start the Paraguard treatment on the weekend as I need to be around to monitor them carefully for the first few days.
If things goes south I will seek help again.
hopefully I won't be posting on the weekends as no news means good news....
@tetrakid,
I guess it's part of the package for fishkeeping lol~
first time treating fish disease, I hope things will go well.
today has not being my greatest experiences in fishkeeping.
As I mention earlier, I'm going the increase the tempreture in the tank to 30°c before the treatment.
my chiller sits at 27°C. yesterday I raise it up to 28°C, at a very slow pace of 0.2°C every 2 hours.
things were looking normal, then when I went home this evening I found two dead red rili shrimps in the tank.
I did a water test. everything's normal.
I know that shrimps are sensitive but bloody hell, I find it ridiculous that the two can't handle a 1°C difference at such a slow pace.
there might be something going on that don't know, right now they are on close observation.
I convinced myself there's no better ways to raise the temperature but I can't help feeling that their blood are on my hands...
Looks like it's going to be a tough battle ahead.
Yeah, it is.Originally Posted by j.c.koh
Fortunately you didn't start off with a prized Arowana or a couple of premium Discus. Otherwise pekchek would be an understatement. Loss of a precious favourite specimen is something so agonising that even a seasoned aquatic veteran find it hard to bear.
Bro. I have not used Chiller before but can you just turn off the chiller to let the water temperature increase naturally? My tank without chiller is almost 30degC in daytime.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
@jackychun,
Tank currently sitting at 28.8°C, if nothing happens tonight I'll off the chiller and bring it up all the way to 30°C tomorrow.
Some updates on the shrimplets before the treatment just in case. ( touch wood )
I think there's a minor screw up on the breeding part, those shrimplets does not look like the red rili lol
I believe this little bugger is the father of the offsprings....
I had absolutely no idea how the hell did he ended up in my tank. as far as I know I didn't pick him.
But he is the toughest shrimp in my tank, the alpha.
when doing water change, all shrimps would show signs of distress. Most will go into hiding.
But he would just casually walk around the stone, minding his own business looking for food.
Normal days he would go around peeping into the hiding place the female shrimps....
Earlier when I discovered him, I had serious thoughts of discarding him as I knew he's going to mess up the breeding.
I dropped the idea as he is after all a part of my crew.
whatever will be will be.
UA, I need to ask you something,
I have started the treatment today, I poured a cap full to the tank. ( treats 40 liters ) At first the shrimps starts acting all weird and stuff, swimming around restlessly. After an hour they starts calming down. I think it should be ok for now.
My question is, do I need to up the water change routine a bit or do I stick with my usual 6 days 25% water change routine? Thank you for your time.
Its usually not necessary to do extra water changes during treatment. If the tank's water parameters are safe and stable, just stick to your regular weekly water change regimen.UA, I need to ask you something,
I have started the treatment today, I poured a cap full to the tank. ( treats 40 liters ) At first the shrimps starts acting all weird and stuff, swimming around restlessly. After an hour they starts calming down. I think it should be ok for now.
My question is, do I need to up the water change routine a bit or do I stick with my usual 6 days 25% water change routine? Thank you for your time.
If you find that the shrimps are getting stressed when the treatment is being dosed, you could mix the solution in a cup of water and drip it in slowly (can get the up aqua buffer barrel or DIY something similar). That should help to minimise the sudden change in water conditions.
Here is a link to the up aqua buffer barrel: http://www.up-aqua.com/00-dm-page/00...fer-barrel.jpg
You can get it from places like Seaview or East Ocean Aquatic. Very useful for dosing or acclimation procedures.
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