which filter is better for keeping shrimps??????? (& beginner for shrimp set up)

[barbsandshrimps]

Hi there fellow aquatic lovers, I'm new to this thing, PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!

Anyway recently, I was thinking of setting up a shrimp tank and i have a few problems, first is the filter, any recommendation?

(which is better??)















(My bad idk how to turn it clockwise HA HA HA AH AHA ok anyway)

and also what is a good base for it???




HELP ME PLEASE AND GIVE ME ADVICE WHAT ELSE I

• CAN/CANNOT PUT INSIDE THE TANK
• WHAT OTHER PRECAUTION I NEED TO CARE FOR EM

Thank you so much, hope to hear from y'all soon!

[TheKiwi]

How large is your tank?

The aquaclear is a DAAAAMN good filter. You won't be able to find another small HOB that lets you customize the filter media as much.


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[barbsandshrimps]

How large is your tank?

The aquaclear is a DAAAAMN good filter. You won't be able to find another small HOB that lets you customize the filter media as much.


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HIIIIIII

ok i have A fluval tank, about 23L!!!!!!!

Really??????? Yay okie at least one down, what about the base??? (UGH SO BAD AT THIS)

[TheKiwi]

HIIIIIII

ok i have A fluval tank, about 23L!!!!!!!

Really??????? Yay okie at least one down, what about the base??? (UGH SO BAD AT THIS)

Ah small tank. Just FYI for the aquaclear, you can adjust the flow rate. I think at the lowest setting it's ok for 23L. If you need to lower the flow rate even more, just use a coarse sponge to act as a pre-filter on your intake. You might wanna do that anyway, to prevent shrimps from getting sucked in.

I have no experience with the substrate you showed, but I hope you know what the nitrogen cycle is, and you must must make sure that your tank is cycled before adding shrimps. Otherwise I guarantee they'll die overnight. A lot of substrates used for shrimp keeping (eg ADA) will release very substantial amounts of ammonia initially.

Lastly, pls get a lid for your tank! Shrimps have no qualms about propelling themselves outta the tank and killing themselves.


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[TheKiwi]

In case you didn't understand what I meant by using a sponge as prefilter on the intake tube, here's a couple of examples. Can just buy a sponge to cut and DIY





Or you can also buy these metal screen attachments. Very commonly used for using HOBs in shrimp tanks




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[genki89]

What shrimps are you keeping?
What kind of water are you using? Tapwater with anti-chlorine or rodi water?
What type of plant are you intending to keep? Any co2?
What light will u be using? The fluval set light or getting another brand?
Any chiller?
Do you have tds and ph pen? Or any water test kit?

The above are standard question. You need to provide us more info before we can provide you more details


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[barbsandshrimps]

Ah small tank. Just FYI for the aquaclear, you can adjust the flow rate. I think at the lowest setting it's ok for 23L. If you need to lower the flow rate even more, just use a coarse sponge to act as a pre-filter on your intake. You might wanna do that anyway, to prevent shrimps from getting sucked in.

I have no experience with the substrate you showed, but I hope you know what the nitrogen cycle is, and you must must make sure that your tank is cycled before adding shrimps. Otherwise I guarantee they'll die overnight. A lot of substrates used for shrimp keeping (eg ADA) will release very substantial amounts of ammonia initially.

Lastly, pls get a lid for your tank! Shrimps have no qualms about propelling themselves outta the tank and killing themselves.


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Yes, the filters which i have, they actually place those sponge for me alr!

So today i set up the tank! BUT..........THE GRAVEL caused the water to be murky i changed it for at least 5 times, but its still murky.

Should i just wait for the filter to do it's job??????????? AHAHHAHAHAHA

[barbsandshrimps]

What shrimps are you keeping?
What kind of water are you using? Tapwater with anti-chlorine or rodi water?
What type of plant are you intending to keep? Any co2?
What light will u be using? The fluval set light or getting another brand?
Any chiller?
Do you have tds and ph pen? Or any water test kit?

The above are standard question. You need to provide us more info before we can provide you more details


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CRS or any freshwater shrimps!

I used tapwater and later added in dechlorinator & bacteria (some liquid)

NO IDEA, ANY RECOMMENDATION?????????

yes the fluval edge comes with LED Light is it sufficient????

Not intending to get it, or should i???

nope

[TheKiwi]

Yes, the filters which i have, they actually place those sponge for me alr!

So today i set up the tank! BUT..........THE GRAVEL caused the water to be murky i changed it for at least 5 times, but its still murky.

Should i just wait for the filter to do it's job??????????? AHAHHAHAHAHA

The cloudiness is a factor of both:
1) a bacterial bloom
2) organics released by the substrate.

It sounds to me like you've not set up a new aquarium before. Pls go and read up on the "nitrogen cycle". Otherwise in the long run your shrimps won't survive.

But while you learn, here's what I'll suggest to get your cycle going:

1) be patient. This will take a week or so.
2) change 50% water every day
3) as the beneficial bacteria grows in your filter media, the bacterial bloom (perfectly normal btw. It happens because you've added dechlorinator to the water) will starve out and go away. The partial water change will remove excess organics.

Thats it. And of course. You need to get a testing kit for the following:
- ammonia
- nitrite
- nitrate
- ph

These are the bare minimum to stand a chance of keeping shrimps. Your tank is fully cycled when it has reached 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and more than 0 for nitrate.


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[barbsandshrimps]

The cloudiness is a factor of both:
1) a bacterial bloom
2) organics released by the substrate.

It sounds to me like you've not set up a new aquarium before. Pls go and read up on the "nitrogen cycle". Otherwise in the long run your shrimps won't survive.

But while you learn, here's what I'll suggest to get your cycle going:

1) be patient. This will take a week or so.
2) change 50% water every day
3) as the beneficial bacteria grows in your filter media, the bacterial bloom (perfectly normal btw. It happens because you've added dechlorinator to the water) will starve out and go away. The partial water change will remove excess organics.

Thats it. And of course. You need to get a testing kit for the following:
- ammonia
- nitrite
- nitrate
- ph

These are the bare minimum to stand a chance of keeping shrimps. Your tank is fully cycled when it has reached 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and more than 0 for nitrate.


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Hi hi!!!!

The reason is mainly bcos of the substrate releasing organics instead of it caused by the bacterial!!! HAHA. So should i just wait for the filter to filter my murky water due to the gravel?????


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[genki89]

Water change during cycling stage? I don't remember doing that. It will actually prolong or restart the cycling process. Just leave it as it is and be patient. If u really needs it to cycle faster, add in super 8000 bb. Any other brand that have bb is ok too (beorneo wild).

Using fluval set light, u can only maintain low light plants. Those like hc, glosso is out. Would recommend moss, java fern and anuba.

Crs assuming it is cherry red, then theres not a need for chiller. But if it is crystal, u will need chiller and rodi water.

U will need the minimum a ph pen and tds pen if budget allows. Shrimp are sensitive to this 2 value. Keeping in mind that gh/kh are also important


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[TheKiwi]

Water change during cycling stage? I don't remember doing that. It will actually prolong or restart the cycling process. Just leave it as it is and be patient. If u really needs it to cycle faster, add in super 8000 bb. Any other brand that have bb is ok too (beorneo wild).

Using fluval set light, u can only maintain low light plants. Those like hc, glosso is out. Would recommend moss, java fern and anuba.

Crs assuming it is cherry red, then theres not a need for chiller. But if it is crystal, u will need chiller and rodi water.

U will need the minimum a ph pen and tds pen if budget allows. Shrimp are sensitive to this 2 value. Keeping in mind that gh/kh are also important


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Ammonia + nitrite level above 2ppm actually impedes the growth of nitrifying bacteria.

In the ideal case, one would test the water, and only do water changes when the level exceeds 2ppm. However in this case OP sounds like he's far too noob to have testing kits or know the N cycle. Hence my recommendation to water change


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[genki89]

Ammonia + nitrite level above 2ppm actually impedes the growth of nitrifying bacteria.

In the ideal case, one would test the water, and only do water changes when the level exceeds 2ppm. However in this case OP sounds like he's far too noob to have testing kits or know the N cycle. Hence my recommendation to water change


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I see.
For all my setup, i just learn from all the shifu here. Once set up, keep it as it is and blast it with air stone to accelerate the growth of bb.

There are also cases whereby the cycling process was restarted due to water change.


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[barbsandshrimps]

Ammonia + nitrite level above 2ppm actually impedes the growth of nitrifying bacteria.

In the ideal case, one would test the water, and only do water changes when the level exceeds 2ppm. However in this case OP sounds like he's far too noob to have testing kits or know the N cycle. Hence my recommendation to water change


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So mean

But i'll try my best to keep up my game with the tank so pls help me.

Anyway things are getting better, today the tank seems better than ystd at least i can see all my plants HAHAHAHHAHAHA

[barbsandshrimps]

I see.
For all my setup, i just learn from all the shifu here. Once set up, keep it as it is and blast it with air stone to accelerate the growth of bb.

There are also cases whereby the cycling process was restarted due to water change.


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Well when i first got my tank they provided me with both the stress coat and quick start!

just to check after addin em in, i should just let the water cycle, then probably invest in a kit to check the waters befr getting shrimps right????

(god i sound like a bimbo)

[genki89]

No. U should not let the water cycle. U should let it complete cycle. Btw, i believe your sump is having the activated carbon. Please remove after using it for 1 month/2month.

Alternative u can look for some biomedia to fill up your sump. And yes, its good to have a test kit. Get api freshwater test kit (complete)


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[TheKiwi]

Well when i first got my tank they provided me with both the stress coat and quick start!

just to check after addin em in, i should just let the water cycle, then probably invest in a kit to check the waters befr getting shrimps right????

(god i sound like a bimbo)

Lol. Your fish shop sounds awful. For info:


API stress coat: your fish shop is ripping you off. While stress coat does indeed neutralize chlorine and chloroamine (both are found in SG tap water), it's more commonly used for helping fishes recover from sores/wounds etc. you're paying more than what you really need. What you actually need is any simple (and cheaper) water conditioner. I use seachem prime, but there are cheaper and good alternatives.

Quick start: API claims that it contains bacteria which will help to jumpstart and accelerate the process of establishing your beneficial bacteria and N cycle. You'll see on most forum it has limited effectiveness, but it wouldn't hurt. IMO, waste of money but won't hurt you.

I assume you're using a hang on back filter (aka a hob) and not a sump. Just keep the filter running and wait for the beneficial bacteria to grow.

Also PLEASE remember: when the sponge and bio media gets dirty, only rinse it in old tank water. Washing in tap water will kill off most of the beneficial bacteria and reset your cycle.


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[barbsandshrimps]

Lol. Your fish shop sounds awful. For info:


API stress coat: your fish shop is ripping you off. While stress coat does indeed neutralize chlorine and chloroamine (both are found in SG tap water), it's more commonly used for helping fishes recover from sores/wounds etc. you're paying more than what you really need. What you actually need is any simple (and cheaper) water conditioner. I use seachem prime, but there are cheaper and good alternatives.

Quick start: API claims that it contains bacteria which will help to jumpstart and accelerate the process of establishing your beneficial bacteria and N cycle. You'll see on most forum it has limited effectiveness, but it wouldn't hurt. IMO, waste of money but won't hurt you.

I assume you're using a hang on back filter (aka a hob) and not a sump. Just keep the filter running and wait for the beneficial bacteria to grow.

Also PLEASE remember: when the sponge and bio media gets dirty, only rinse it in old tank water. Washing in tap water will kill off most of the beneficial bacteria and reset your cycle.


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yes i'm using the aquaclear filter which you advised me!!!!

& currently my tank still looks like that aft 3 days




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[BFG]

Barbsandshrimps , it appears that you jump into the hobby without knowing what you need to do . Be careful on how you proceed in this hobby for whatever funds you spent , although seems a lot to you initially , might not bring success . Nothing good ever happens fast in this hobby so I would advise you to take the time to gain more knowledge in order to succeed in this hobby . Read more and keep asking questions , make acquaintance with fellow shrimp keeper in this forum in order for you to achieve success in your endeavour !

Good luck !