you'll have to think about the water flow issue. by partitioning, you are restricting water flow around the tank through the 4" x 4" holes. water flow will not be good. may be 1 hole on each side of the glass panels.
I was thinking to make a 24"(L) x 8"(H) x 8"(W) tank with 2 glass panels (see drawing below). The idea is to create 3 x (8"x8"x8" nano tank in one tank) so that got the opportunity to create 3 completely different layout!!
With this size, I can get a 2ft lighting, one internal filter, one PC fan & one mini CO2 and they can be shared among all 3 'nano tanks' because this one tank divided by glass panels with a 4"x4" hole in the middle.
Anyone has tried this set-up before?![]()
Would it be effective to share common equipment ?
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you'll have to think about the water flow issue. by partitioning, you are restricting water flow around the tank through the 4" x 4" holes. water flow will not be good. may be 1 hole on each side of the glass panels.
thomas liew
Well, how about two mini-internal filter on each end of 2ft tank. OR Drill more small holes on the glass panel instead of one big ones?Originally Posted by tawauboy
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Originally Posted by Star-flog
the basic idea is to ensure constant move in water and best is water flowing at all time. Frankly i find that 8 inch per segment like very small and cramp unless u wanna just put a fish inside with nothing inside or minimal stuff inside. What i did last time was to use 3 one feet tanks to make a combined 3 footer tank. If u really want to stock to your design than i would suggest an underground filter for all three base tanks... not sure how do wrtite it in words as i explain better in talking heheheh... but there is a way lah...
The idea is to have "3 x 8"-tank" link together so that 3 different layout can be planned. With the holes, the fishes can go all 3 x 8" tank as they feel free! Essentially, it's still a 24" x 8" x 8" tank.Originally Posted by jja
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The problem is water circulation... it'll mainly be restricted to the compartment that contains the internal filter.
To get around this, you need to have water input on one end, and output at the other end. Possible solutions:
1: small cannister filter... like the smallest Eheim - Ecco 2233.
2. DIY cannister filter.
3. Pipe the internal filter output to the far end.
4. Widen the tank and add an internal sump.
Also improve the flow by maximising the openings between compartments. How about using triangular partitions (Top edge of triangle runs from the top of back wall to the bottom of front panel)?
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I like your idea, particularly the option 3 (internal filter output at the far end).Originally Posted by vinz
After done the calculation, the water volume is about (90% full) 23L/6G and I got this Rena internal fitler (Filstar i1) brought at Aquarama recently. The flow rate is 300L/hour. Should be quite sufficient output power to move water around...![]()
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If you are getting the tank made from scratch, consider the sump idea... you can conceal a lot of equipment in the sump... like a CO2 diffusor at the return reservior. Gives you more space for scaping the already limited space of such small tanks.
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I'm not really understand here.Originally Posted by vinz
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So that will be 2 tanks, one main tank + a sump tank below to hide all the equipment ?
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No... behind. Basically it's an Internal Overflow Sump.
The compartment R is the where the return pump is situated and you can put a CO2 diffusor there.Code:View from the top. +-------------------------------+ | | | R |Sump +^^^^^^^^^----------------------+ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | +-------------------------------+ ^^^ overflow
Vincent - AQ is for everyone, but not for 'u' and 'mi'.
Why use punctuation? See what a difference it makes:A woman, without her man, is nothing.
A woman: without her, man is nothing.
That is a very nice internal sump system. I think it would be even better for a bigger tank size. For a 24"x8"x8", a bit over killed...Originally Posted by vinz
Also, I want the construction of this tank to be simple so it'll be cheaper to make and hence cheaper the price.
Much appreciated for your input once again!Would use your option 3 mentioned above, more easy.
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you can use aryclic panels instead of glass. drill as many holes as possible to allow water flow.
or use stainless steel mesh as partition.
thomas liew
Also can, actually aryclie better, can drill many holes but one thing no good is can get scratches easily.Originally Posted by tawauboy
Stainless steel mesh, can work excellently but not nice..
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I will make this tank later today, for the fun of creating 3 smaller tanks.![]()
Based on calculation, the water volume with 90% full is 23L/6G and I have an existing 2ft light of 15W, is this okay ? As the tank height is less than 8 inch!
Plan to plant :Tank 1 = Glossostigam, tank 2 = Riccia fluitans, tank 3 = Taiwan & Java Mosses (or Mini Pellia on the wood)
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3WPG guide line does not scale well to nano tanks and very large tanks. With 15W, you're looking at a low light setup.
It just occured to me the 2 tanks at the ends will not get as much light as the one in the middle.
Vincent - AQ is for everyone, but not for 'u' and 'mi'.
Why use punctuation? See what a difference it makes:A woman, without her man, is nothing.
A woman: without her, man is nothing.
May be change to 1 x 2ft T5 (24W) should be enough. Would that be over killed and increase the water temp?Originally Posted by vinz
The centre tank (2) for Glosso, tank (1) left side for Mosses & tank (3) right side for Riccia.
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Is 2ft light casing come with PL light 36 Watt (or any higher)?
I know that WPG rule can not apply to small tank and whether 36 Watt enough for 28L/7.G of water?
Plan to grow Glosso and highting is very important..
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