is this a solenoid?

[armani]

hi all, my uncle gave me a CO2 set but its rusty cause he kept it in a marine tank cabinet. he did not use it n he didnt know it would get rusty... then he take out to gimme it was so rusty but i think still usable... not very sure..

-is this thing in the pic a solenoid? my knowledge in CO2 tanks very low, hope u all can help me... thanks..
-do u think its working?
-how to check?
-anyone wanna exchange for a working manual regulator or something cause the dirt outside is just limescale which can be cleaned easily i guess?

would really appreciate if someone can properly explain to me about solenoid or manual regulator or how to use it cause the one in the pic got knobs here n there n i dunno which one to turn... thanks for ur help...

[PeterGwee]

Unless there is backflow from the marine tank to the regulator, it shouldn't be looking that way for sure. You are dealing with high pressure stuff...better be safe than sorry. I'll not use that for sure.

Regards
Peter Gwee

[armani]

oh no no no... mistaken... the CO2 was not used for the marine tank... it was just KEPT in the cabinet of the marine tank... n the marine tank was using sump system as the filtartion.. thats why the salt in the air in the cabinet caused such a problem... all the rust n lime scale is just surface...

[PeterGwee]

Well, use it at your own risk then. I sure don't want a smoke out in my house.

Regards
Peter Gwee

[armani]

hahaha....da expected that... haha... have any idea how much a normal manual regulator will cost? the simplest one? thanks...

[vinz]

hi all, my uncle gave me a CO2 set but its rusty cause he kept it in a marine tank cabinet. he did not use it n he didnt know it would get rusty... then he take out to gimme it was so rusty but i think still usable... not very sure..

-is this thing in the pic a solenoid? my knowledge in CO2 tanks very low, hope u all can help me... thanks..
-do u think its working?
-how to check?
-anyone wanna exchange for a working manual regulator or something cause the dirt outside is just limescale which can be cleaned easily i guess?

would really appreciate if someone can properly explain to me about solenoid or manual regulator or how to use it cause the one in the pic got knobs here n there n i dunno which one to turn... thanks for ur help...

The black plastic portion and the retangular metal block above it is the solenoid.

The two dials and the round part they are attached to is the regulator. Behind that is the portion that you attach to the CO2 cylinder.

The portion to the right of the metal part of the solenoid, which the pipe is attached to, is the needle valve. At the end of that is the knob which you use to adjust the CO2 injection rate.

First you can test if the solenoid is working electircally or not. Put the whole thing on a wooden/plastic table/chair or something that does not conduct electricity to the ground. Don't touch it. Plug the cable into a wall socket and turn the socket on. You might hear a faint buzzing sound if the solenoid is working, depending on the quality of the solenoid. Get a test pen to touch the metal portions and the screws under the black casing. You can't be sure if the electricals inside the plastic portion has been corroded and compromised as well.

If the test pen lights up, it might have short circuited and leaking electricity. In that case, turn off the wall socket, unplug the thing and don't use it anymore. Go get a shop to test it and replace the solenoid.

If you give it a few minutes, it should get warm... be careful because poorly made solenoids can get VERY hot.

If it does get hot then we know internally the electricals are working, but whether the valve itself is working is another sotry and can't be tested unless you attach it to a full cylinder and test for CO2 flow.

The electrical testing is dangerous if you are not careful. If in doubt of your electrical safety knowledge, consult a trained electrician.

[tawauboy]

test the solenoid using the method described by Vinz. usually the solenoid will emit a single 'tiak' whenever the solenoid is powered up or powered down.

[|squee|]

I wouldn't use that set... CO2 at the pressure of 1600psi exploding is scary.

A normal manual regulator at its cheapest? Probably less than $50.

[joestoys]

buy a new one, save the trouble and risk. from the look of it..... better safe than sorry. GOOD LUCK

[vinz]

I agree with the rest... it's seriously reisky to use that set. You can't be sure how corroded the joints are. Anything on it can go pop. I'll only use it after it's completely dismantled, cleaned, inspected and declared safe by a certified engineer or technician.Probably mroe worth while to get a new one.

[juggler]

Amani: Those looked like some World War 2 artefacts.

With the salty environment, the electronics of the solenoid could have gone kaput. Why not try a new single-gauge manual regulator that could be $30-$40 from Nature Aquarium - the last time I asked.

[joestoys]

Amani: Those looked like some World War 2 artefacts.

[aquarius]

Does regulator have a life span whereby after a certain no of yrs the pressure gauge or some other things on the regulator or solenoid starts to be faulty?

[armani]

hahaha... ok... will throw it away... anyone selling their single gauge manual regulator let me know hor... haha... thanks very much to all the bros here... really appreciate ur help...

one qn, the single gauge manual regulator can fit any co2 tank or got different kind for different tank? i dunno the capacity of my tank leh?

[juggler]

If your tank is a CO2 tank, it should be able to take in any CO2 regulator.
The volume should be stated on the tank. Usually stamped "V 2.0" for a 2L tank and so on. There should also be a date stamp for manufacture and another date stamp if an inspection has been done on the tank.

[elmike]

The black plastic portion and the retangular metal block above it is the solenoid.

The two dials and the round part they are attached to is the regulator. Behind that is the portion that you attach to the CO2 cylinder.

The portion to the right of the metal part of the solenoid, which the pipe is attached to, is the needle valve. At the end of that is the knob which you use to adjust the CO2 injection rate.

First you can test if the solenoid is working electircally or not. Put the whole thing on a wooden/plastic table/chair or something that does not conduct electricity to the ground. Don't touch it. Plug the cable into a wall socket and turn the socket on. You might hear a faint buzzing sound if the solenoid is working, depending on the quality of the solenoid. Get a test pen to touch the metal portions and the screws under the black casing. You can't be sure if the electricals inside the plastic portion has been corroded and compromised as well.

If the test pen lights up, it might have short circuited and leaking electricity. In that case, turn off the wall socket, unplug the thing and don't use it anymore. Go get a shop to test it and replace the solenoid.

If you give it a few minutes, it should get warm... be careful because poorly made solenoids can get VERY hot.

If it does get hot then we know internally the electricals are working, but whether the valve itself is working is another sotry and can't be tested unless you attach it to a full cylinder and test for CO2 flow.

The electrical testing is dangerous if you are not careful. If in doubt of your electrical safety knowledge, consult a trained electrician.

Firstly, let me say that I personally think to use any corroded components would be taking unnecessary huge risk.

vinz
I've been under the impression that the solenoid is just the black plastic portion...that the rectangular metallic part, which you mentioned, is part of the needle valve?

Could someone pls describe the correct way to remove the solenoid? Do you do it at/ between the black portion and the rect metallic portion or between the latter and the meter gauges? What tools are needed?

I just found out yesterday that my solenoid does not shut off anymore when the timer goes off/ or when I turn off the controlling switch. Also, I don't hear the the "clicking" sound from the solenoid when it kicks into/ off operation. The only way I could cut the CO2 is to turn off the main/ top valve on the cylinder.

I think some solenoid has a light indicator, which is a plus. Mine is totally black, but I can't think of anything else that might have gone wrong other than the black plastic component.
I reckon I need to replace the solenoid, that is, just the plastic portion?

[elmike]

Of course, the other way to shut off CO2 in such situation is to turn/ close the needle valve. But I understand this may cause wear/ damage as the needle is rather delicate.

[vinz]

Yes, but if you close the needle valve, you have to make sure to open it again to the same position so that you get the correct injection rate for you tank. It's too much trouble. Much easier to just operate the main valve.

The electrical parts and the electromagnet that open/closes the mechanical valve on the solenoid is in the plastic portion. The mechanical valve is the metal block and the tube that extends into the plastic portion.

Usually it's quite unlikely that the mechanical valve that breaks as it's a very simple device, sealed and never tampered with. Usually it's the electrical/electromagnetic parts that breakdown. That's why in most case, repairing a solenoid involves replacing the plastic portion only.

See this link for an explanation of how a solenoid works.

[PeterGwee]

Of course, the other way to shut off CO2 in such situation is to turn/ close the needle valve. But I understand this may cause wear/ damage as the needle is rather delicate.

You can always use a powerhead to "on"/"off" the CO2 injection process but you will waste gas though.

Regards
Peter Gwee

[elmike]

Great link! Thanks.
I haven't taken a closer look at my solenoid set, as I was all the while keeping my fingers crossed that it would last me a lifetime.
I presume it's a no-brainer job to disconnect and replace the plastic portion from the rectangular portion, and that all for-aquarium-use solenoids should be compartible with this so-called rectangular piece?

I'll definitely want to replace the faulty solenoid as it'll be troublesome to turn and unturn the top valve twice a day, every day!