I read in a US magazine that for the setup of a new tank, it is adviseable to plant heavily (very) from the on start. This is to prevent algae from gaining a foothold. Fishes are only to be introduced about a month later. Is this correct? My second query is on the time to switch on the lightings. I understand at least 10 hrs of lighting are required for plant growth. But do I synchronise the "on" time with daylight, i.e switch on during daylight hours?
I intend to set up a 4' open tank by December and also intend to use pressurised CO2 system. But still have not found a suitable tank with nice cabinet. Cheers.
That is correct!Originally Posted by ehlim
It's not "at least", but more of "how much is just nice". Usually people set it to 10 hours, and fine tune it as observation of plants go on. You do not need to synchronise, like for example my tank's lighted period is from 1pm to 10pm.
Good luck to your new setup!
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You may want to start from 6hr a day to acclimatise the plants. Every week, you add another hour until it reaches your desired timing ie 8-10hr a day. Use a timer to simplify the lights operation.
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I started with 4hrs of lights with 1bps for the first 2 days. I increase the lights an hr each day until it reaches 10hrs. I also increased Co2 to 3bps on day 5 after i see that the plants are starting to stablise.
All these are just guidelines. The most important thing is to observe and act accordingly.
You would need at least 8-10hrs for proper photoperiod. 6hrs seem a tad too little. Starting out with less light as well as adding "mulm" aka dirt from established tanks to the substrate and new filters are keys to preventing issues.
Regards
Peter Gwee
You would need at least 8-10hrs for proper photoperiod. 6hrs seem a tad too little. Starting out with less light as well as adding "mulm" aka dirt from established tanks to the substrate and new filters are keys to preventing issues.
Regards
Peter Gwee
If I don't use mulm in the substrate or filter, are there other ways to prevent a "new tank" syndrome from happening? Do I add many otos when I start planting heavily? What will be the best filter composition for a canister filter? Tks
There are no other ways, other than adding something that contains matured bacteria.
It's up to you whether you want otos or not. They only clear up brown film-like algae.
There's no "best" filter composition, mine is from bottom up:
Ceramic rings
Wool
Biohome
Wool
Hi, What will be the main types of algae I would find in a new tank? Other than adding otos, are there any types of fishes or shrimps that I can add safely to prevent aglae from gaining a foothold? In a 4 x 2 x2 tank, what would be a good combination that would not upset the biological balance? Tks.
In a new tank, try to get hold of as much mulm as you can from another established tank. This mulm can be those filter "gunk", or the bottom of old substrates, or squeezings from a filter sponge. Put that under the new substrate so that your bacterial bed gets established quickly.
You will find hair algae, brown algae and green dust algae IME. Other than Otocinclus and Yamato shrimp, I usually don't add anything else. Yamatos can be added in large quantity since they're relatively light bioload and seriously, a large number can be added without the tank looking crowded. I find Otos rather useless, but heck, I just add them anyway.
Hi Terence, much appreciate yr inputs. Is it correct that I add the Yamato shrimps and otos on the very first day of planting? When and with what do I feed them? Do SAE and Chinese AE do the same job as the otos?
Amano adds Yamato shrimps and otos in the first week if I'm not wrong. However... for me I personally won't add anything until I see the slowest plants growing. That's the sign that the tank is more or less ready.
You needn't feed Yamatos, until you see that your plants have been bitten. Feed them algae wafers if that's the case. Otos can survive on the diatoms... I've not fed my oto since last year, he's still well. Observe the oto's stomach. If it's not rounded, try cucumbers.
The SAE and CAE have been said to eat more than what the oto does. But I tell you one thing... the sight of the pale CAE in any planted tank is a turn-off IMHO, and the SAE is pretty useless in my experience. They say the SAE eats young BBA, but... *shrug* not for me.
I prefer preventing the algae. Like PeterGwee said on another post, after the algae is already there, you have to work manually to get rid of it. Prevention with nutrient control is the best way.
Do it once, do it right.Read up, make sure you are sure of everything you're doing, then take a day off and set up that tank.
Sure agree with yr observation on the "pale CAE". Understand cranking up the CO2 will help to prevent algae. What will be the optimum level? I am bit confused on the measuement of CO2. What does ppm means? Is it the same as bubbles per minute, or was it per second?
PPM = Parts Per Million
BPS = Bubbles Per Seconds (used to measure the quantity of CO2 going into the tank)
My belief is this:
If you're injecting CO2, try not to believe the pH and kH values entirely. Remember that pH is logarithmic in scale, a change of 0.1 affects readings alot.
Thus I increase CO2 till fish are not gasping at any time of the day (at night as well). This ensures that more than enough CO2 is always present.
Have some surface movement (just good movement of the surface water and not rippling) and do the incremental method slowly after you did the pH/KH routine. Be around the whole day whenever you do the increase and not wonder off. If the fish starts to breathe harder than normal during the day (especially during the last few hours), back off the CO2 to the last safe level. Remember to do it slowly! DO NOT GET IMPATIENT!
Regards
Peter Gwee
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