BBA & Staghorn... need advice

[flyx]

Having some algae problem but the forum was down yesterday so i post on another forum..hopefully i can have more opinions and advice here..
http://www.arofanatics.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=210714

[PeterGwee]

Poor CO2 (BBA), NH3/NH4 (Staghorn)...you disturb the substrate alot and did not do a large water change? Keep a high bioload?. You have 18ppm from measurement but I think its lower since most have errors in them. Target 25-35ppm throughout the entire photoperiod and make sure the current in the tank is evenly spread (no dead spots.). Reducing the splash from the overflow area of the IOS will help reduce CO2 loss.

Regards
Peter Gwee

[neon]

Peter :

How to overcome if one has high bioload without removing the fishes ? Will a good filteration system can compensate this,and the ammonia and nitrite test are always indicated negative ?

Also, my BBA does not seem to subside no matter how I tune my CO2 (changes from (a) NA external reactor (b) PVC external reactor (c) 2 xTom Barr's Venturi internal reactors driven by 2 power heads) , water circulation taken care (2 internal reactor power heads, rainbar from canister alone, another pump for the chiller).

Tank : 6x2x2
Dosing : EI method : Dr Mallick NPK (Sat/Mon/Wed) , Profito (Sun/Tue/Thur) -60ml/dose
Seachem equilibrium (4 tablespoons)
Seachem Excel 120 ML after WC, daily 10ml
WC : 50% / week on sat
temp : 26 deg c with Chiller
lighting : 2 x 150w MH + 2 x 55w PL , 14-16" above water, 8 hrs per day
CO2 : solenoid with splitter to 2 power head x Tom Barr's venturi design internal reactors , bubble rate (easily 6-7) per counter
PH : had not check for a while already

Cheers

[PeterGwee]

How to overcome if one has high bioload without removing the fishes ? Will a good filteration system can compensate this,and the ammonia and nitrite test are always indicated negative ?

A big wet/dry filter is great for handling high fish load due to its huge housing capacity for bacteria.
A good filter will handle all the NH3/NH4 generated up to a point. It only takes an minute pulse of excess NH3/NH4 every now and then to trigger algae issues. By the time you test for it, its already gone.

Also, my BBA does not seem to subside no matter how I tune my CO2 (changes from (a) NA external reactor (b) PVC external reactor (c) 2 xTom Barr's Venturi internal reactors driven by 2 power heads) , water circulation taken care (2 internal reactor power heads, rainbar from canister alone, another pump for the chiller).

Tank : 6x2x2
Dosing : EI method : Dr Mallick NPK (Sat/Mon/Wed) , Profito (Sun/Tue/Thur) -60ml/dose
Seachem equilibrium (4 tablespoons)
Seachem Excel 120 ML after WC, daily 10ml
WC : 50% / week on sat
temp : 26 deg c with Chiller
lighting : 2 x 150w MH + 2 x 55w PL , 14-16" above water, 8 hrs per day
CO2 : solenoid with splitter to 2 power head x Tom Barr's venturi design internal reactors , bubble rate (easily 6-7) per counter
PH : had not check for a while already

Cheers

Is it growing rapidly or has the growth stopped? You need to remove all that is in the tank to begin with. If it reappears again, something is not right with the CO2 as long as the critters appear fine. Check the rate of the CO2. Is it stable? Note the rate especially after it comes on during the day.

You can consider trying the CO2 misting method. I fed the CO2 to a powerhead which is output to a rainbar attached along the entire bottom back length of the tank just above the substrate, pointing forward. I get very fine mist in the tank and can see where the flow is getting/not getting to via the presence of the mist. Yours is a big tank which requires more effort on your part. Try the method using 2 powerheads that you have and see if it works well for you. You will have an idea of where the CO2 is getting to or not.

Regards
Peter Gwee

[flyx]

Poor CO2 (BBA), NH3/NH4 (Staghorn)...you disturb the substrate alot and did not do a large water change? Keep a high bioload?. You have 18ppm from measurement but I think its lower since most have errors in them. Target 25-35ppm throughout the entire photoperiod and make sure the current in the tank is evenly spread (no dead spots.). Reducing the splash from the overflow area of the IOS will help reduce CO2 loss.

Regards
Peter Gwee

how u all measure ur co2?..wat brand of test kit??

[|squee|]

Measuring your CO2.

[flyx]

Measuring your CO2.

Alamaks, im usng serra test kits...so cant really checck pH accurately..so how..??..wat kind of pH test kits u all suggest.

[neon]

A big wet/dry filter is great for handling high fish load due to its huge housing capacity for bacteria.
A good filter will handle all the NH3/NH4 generated up to a point. It only takes an minute pulse of excess NH3/NH4 every now and then to trigger algae issues. By the time you test for it, its already gone.

What is the formula for max # of bioload ?

Is it growing rapidly or has the growth stopped? You need to remove all that is in the tank to begin with. If it reappears again, something is not right with the CO2 as long as the critters appear fine. Check the rate of the CO2. Is it stable? Note the rate especially after it comes on during the day.

You can consider trying the CO2 misting method. I fed the CO2 to a powerhead which is output to a rainbar attached along the entire bottom back length of the tank just above the substrate, pointing forward. I get very fine mist in the tank and can see where the flow is getting/not getting to via the presence of the mist. Yours is a big tank which requires more effort on your part. Try the method using 2 powerheads that you have and see if it works well for you. You will have an idea of where the CO2 is getting to or not.

I think I tried this method as per your advised before changing to the long the PVC external reactor in the early days . The BBA is getting more and more now.

[|squee|]

Alamaks, im usng serra test kits...so cant really checck pH accurately..so how..??..wat kind of pH test kits u all suggest.

Your test kit measures in 0.2 increments? Generally all test kits can be used for this method. Aim for 35ppm or more so as to minimise pH and kH reading/measurement errors.

[PeterGwee]

What is the formula for max # of bioload ?



I think I tried this method as per your advised before changing to the long the PVC external reactor in the early days . The BBA is getting more and more now.

Hard to say exactly maybe say and inch per gallon of tank water.

Something is not right, it shouldn't be growing if the CO2 is good. 7-8bps even for a 6 footer is alot. I wonder where you are loosing the CO2?

Regards
Peter Gwee

[Phillipians]

is it 6 -7 bps per reactor? If so it is really a huge amount of co2 to pump in. Hmmm... i think there may be posssible reasons such as:
Your reactor is not diffusing well enough, chk whether there is an "air gap" in your reactor.
Or your circulation of water is poor.

Why not get another power head to pump water towards the BBA stricken areas,

[neon]

Hard to say exactly maybe say and inch per gallon of tank water.

Something is not right, it shouldn't be growing if the CO2 is good. 7-8bps even for a 6 footer is alot. I wonder where you are loosing the CO2?

Regards
Peter Gwee

As your suggestion, I revamped the CO2 by fixing my 2 powerhead onto the 2 rain bars at the lower back of the tank and spray forward, and I combined my canister (3400L/h) and chiller together, output with a lily pad at the front side of the tank (mid level).

I noticed the difference :

a) mist with the powerhead direct attached to rain bar is really really tiny versus the powerhead->reactor container with venturi tube
b) the powerhead direct attached to rain bar mist spread wider as the rainbar is long and mist is flowing slower. The powerhead/reactor tends to shot out bigger bubbles and strong/hard current.
c) powerhead/rainbar - shorter time to bubble and bubble more , especially for my tenellus, crypt, ferns etc.

Hope this bubbling rate will sustain and the BBA is kept at bay. Lets monitor for few weeks.

Cheers

[|squee|]

That's exactly what you should get with the mist method.

[neon]

That's exactly what you should get with the mist method.

Yah , agreed. The mist is super super tiny. Can't notice it unless I come close to the tank.

With this , I suggest people to DIY like mine :

1) clear , long tubing ($2.50) normally use in Arowana,lohan tank to make rainbar . Which has angle connectors ($0.50) , T-connectors ($0.50), end-stopper ($0.50) etc.
2) drills holes on them
3) attached the tubing --> hose--> powerhead


Cheers

[|squee|]

We're diverging off topic, but if you (neon) can draw up a diagram and post it up in a new thread, I think it'll be easier for all of us here